CHAPTER 13. ANTARCTICA
December 28, 2010. (Antarctica Bound !!!!!!!!!!!)
Departure is at 5 pm today. Checked out of the hostel after lunch and will walk the street of Ushuaia until 4 pm and then go through security at the dock. Ended up at the port around 3:30 and saw a huge line of passengers waiting to clear security. Many did not seem to have any luggage and I was confused but later realized some were on day trips. There were also many going to Antarctica on the 500 passenger ship which was enormous. They are not allowed to land anywhere in Antarctica. The passenger ship must not have more than 100 passengers to make landing in Antarctica. I was actually the first person on board at 4 pm and then Casper, from the Netherlands, came on the ship. We quickly introduced ourselves and were amazed that we ended up as cabin mates. Probably because we both booked at the last moment. After everyone got on the ship we had an emergency drill on the top deck before we started our journey at 6 pm. This 11 day cruise is actually closer to 9.5 days. We leave on the 28th at 6 pm and return at 8 am on the 7th. 2 water trips of a lifetime in the same trip. (Grand Canyon and Antarctica)
December 29, 2010. (Drake Passage)
The Drake Passage is a lively body of water, and a rite of passage for Antarctic tourists. Named after Sir Francis Drake, it extends 900 kilometers (600 miles) from Cape Horn to the northernmost tip of Antarctica and is famous for being one of the roughest seas in the world.
December 30, 2010. (Atlantic Convergence)
Lectures today on whales, dolphins and seals. Still in Drake Passage but in Atlantic Convergence, where the warmer and cooler waters meet. Compulsory emergency drill with life jackets at 5 pm. If weather is okay we will land at 7 am. Everyone getting excited. Really nice people on the boat. Most of the people flew in just for this trip and head back afterwards. I am the only person from the United States. There are Germans, Dutch, Canadians, English, French, Italians and not sure of some of the others. Not sleeping well with the ship rolling.
December 31, 2010. (Last day of 2010 and 1st landing in Antarctica)
Breakfast at 6 am and climb in Zodiacs, a small motorized raft, for landing in Antarctica at 7 am. After breakfast most passengers went to the top deck to see the incredible icebergs. Excitement is in the air. I was lucky enough to be in the 1st Zodiac to launch and land in Antarctica. Amazing, words seem to escape me. Wish the family could be here with me. Not much sun and really don't know how that works here. lol Penguins, penguins and penguins. So incredible how they don't seem to worry much about us. We are to stay about 15 feet away but if they approach you it is okay. Penguins always have the right of way. The landing was at Brown Bluff.
The 2nd landing was at Hope Bay. We visited the Argentine base and were welcomed by the Argentine children, yes children, that live there with their families. We visited the school and I was able to mail a postcard to Kade and Madison from Antarctica.
3rd stop was Paulette Island and saw amazing icebergs as we circled the island in the Zodiacs.
January 1, 2011. (New Year's Day on Astrolabe Island)
Wild New Year's party which lasted way too long and made the morning Zodiac cruise with a lot fewer passengers than normal. Most said it was uneventful. However the 2nd landing to Astrolabe Island was incredible. Beautiful icebergs, every type of penguin including the Marconi penguins which Jordy said was a rare treat since they are normally breeding in the Falklands. We also saw a leopard seal and fur seal, another rarity. Then we spotted a Hamburg whale feeding and followed and watch it for about an hour in the Zodiacs. No lamb for 56 years and had it for dinner, the 2nd time in a week including Christmas Eve.
January 2, 2011. (Cueville Island and Neko Harbour)
We went to Cuerville Island and saw some really beautiful icebergs. Afternoon land was at Neko Harbour.
January 3, 2011. (English base)
Decided not to go to the English base since I had already visited the much bigger Argentine base and they also were going to see MORE penguins. They are fun to watch but it is getting a little old. The afternoon landing were canceled due to high winds. We head to Shetland Island which marks the beginning of the end. Getting restless since I have seen and experienced some of the best of Antarctica. Starting to feel a little trapped as I am used to being able to move from place to place at will.
January 4, 2011. (Deception Bay)
We were awoken at 4:45 by Jordy to let us know that we were arriving at the entrance to Deception Bay in the Shetland Islands. We all went on top to get a look but the weather was dreary and we all wished we had stayed in bed. We took the Zodiacs (small pontoon boat with motor) and landed around 6 am. We were told to bring our swim suits. WHAT!!!! Our first visit was to the Devil Bellows to get a look at the other side of the island and then to the abandoned whaling station. Some people did go for a swim in the cold water and then warmed up in the warm volcanic sand. I WAS NOT one of them. Leaving Antarctica this afternoon.
January 5, 2011. (Drake Passage)
Not much to do since we have left the Shetland Islands and are headed back to Ushuaia. The waves are starting to get much worse. I have been wearing the same clothes for 3 days since my laundry is still not ready but hopefully today. The trip to Antarctica was much more exciting than the trip back. Ready to be back on solid ground.
January 6, 2011. (Drake Passage)
The worst weather of the trip. The captain said the waves in the Drake Passage were the worst he has seen in the boat's 5 year history. Almost everyone stayed in their rooms except for meals. Laying in bed seemed to help the most but luckily I did not get seasick. At 6:30 pm the crew presented a slide show of pictures of the passengers and places we visited. Then we all made copies to keep. Wine was flowing.
January 7, 2011. (LAST DAY)
We docked in Ushuaia around 4 am, had breakfast at 7am and disembarked around 8:00 am. Tired from 2 days of the worst waves the Antarctic Dream has seen in the last 5 years according to the captain. Luckily I did not get seasick but almost everyone stayed in bed most of the time because it was almost impossible to stand or walk. Checked in the hostel and went to sleep after lunch. An incredible trip. Loved the Antarctic part, hated the Cruise part. Also, there were only a few backpackers on this luxury cruise with gourmet food and free wine with lunch and dinner. I have never seen so many dishes that I could not recognize. While the $3990 was $490 over the top amount I had planned on paying, the average cost for most was approximately $10,000 with one paying $16,000 for a room alone. A few people at the hostel are leaving today for the same cruise at the same price so at least I did not pay too much considering New Years eve and day were on the Antarctic peninsula. Also our boat which has a maximum of 78 passengers only had 63 passengers due to the bad weather in Europe, forcing some planes to South America to cancel their flights. Having less than 100 passengers also allows you to land many places that other boats can not land. We also usually had 3 landings per day when weather permitted. Back to simple things and so happy for it. Go Tigers, hope I get it on the television.
CHAPTER 14. SOUTH AMERICA (Part 2)
January 7, 2011. (ARGENTINA, Ushuaia)
Back at Freestyle Backpackers Hostel after an incredible journey to Antarctica. Just had the best meal, french bread, ham and chips. After 11 days of gourmet food (lamb, grilled tuna, salmon, and numerous things I still don't know), I am so glad to be back to simple life and simple food. I leave tomorrow for Buenos Aires at 6:40 pm and will arrive at 10 pm. (not ideal) The flight was actually $50 cheaper than the 50 hr bus ride. Also now know that cruises are not for me. Don't like giving up my freedom to go where I want when I want and not be restricted by schedules. Will start posting Antarctic pictures on my new Antarctic Blog tomorrow. You can find my blog at the bottom of my profile or at http://billpassmanantarctica.blogspot.com
Saturday, January 8, 2011. (Flight to Buenos Aires)
Slept until 10 am, breakfast and washing clothes. The flight to Buenos Aires was delayed and did not arrive until 11:30 pm. I arrived at the hostel at 12:45 am and checked in. Then I went to the hostel bar a little after 1 am for a beer. I asked the bartender why it was almost empty as this is a very popular hostel. He laughed and said no one goes out until about 2 am and then parties until daylight. Okay, this is not something I could adjust to in my 50's. Lol. To each their own.
January 9, 2011. (ARGENTINA, Buenos Aires)
Stayed up till about 3 am chatting with hostel staff and backpackers in the LOUD bar. Still great fun. I , of course, had a top bunk again in the six bed dorm and the rest of the group came in around 5-6 am. Of course, when I got up at 9:30 for the free breakfast, the rest of the group did not move until around 3 pm. About (8) McDonalds and Burger Kings within 3 blocks of the hostel so I am back in my element. The memory of gourmet food on the Antarctic Dream will soon be nothing but a memory. yeah
Had planned on City Bus Tour at 2 pm to get the sight seeing out of the way but was later informed the double decker bus was full so will rebook later this week. Instead I walked about 25 city blocks to and back from the Sunday Market which is just Artisans lining the streets with their wares and a few musicians playing. Nice way to spend a breezy, 82 degree day. Warm temperatures of rest of my trip. Even gave my fleece jacket away in Ushuaia because too expensive to ship and takes too much valuable space in my backpack.
Tomorrow I go to Brazilian Consulate to apply for my Btazilian Visa ($150) . OUCH It usually takes 3-4 days and you have to have an incredible amount of information and flights showing you plan on leaving the country. Spending about 6 days in Buenos Aires and then Paraguay, Uruguay, Igassu Falls and then to Brazil.
Will try and upload more Antarctica pictures today.
January 10, 2011. (URUGUAY, Colonia)
Spent the day in Colonia, Uruguay which is only an hour and half by ferry from Buenos Aires. Supposed to be the highlight of Uruguay. Spent 12.5 hours there which was 9 hours too much. Nice and kind of reminded me of downtown Natchez. Very artsy.
January 12th and 13th, 2011. ( Iguazu Falls , Argentina side)
After 17 hrs on bus from Buenos Aires, I finally made it to Puerto Iguazu around 8 am. Luckily the hostel was across the street from the bus station. After a quick shower I went to the Brazilian Consulate which was only a block away. I had to complete an application by 10 am if I wanted a visa the next day. I finished with 3 minutes to spare. With a check in time of 2 pm I decided to go to Iguazu Falls which is 12 miles away. I got there at 11 am and stayed until 6 pm. GREAT DAY. FALLS ARE IMPRESSIVE.
January 14, 2011
Today was a chill day. Yes it's true, you do not have to do something everyday that is tourist related. At this point in my life I no longer consider myself a traditional tourist, just someone who lives his life by seeing new things and places. A NOMAD. Somedays you just need to chill. I laid out by the pool, drank beer and participated in the the hostel BBQ for dinner and of course, taljed travel with other backpackers.
January 15, 2011. (2 more nights in Puerto Iguazu)
Just realized my hostel booking for Foz Iguazu, Brazil is not until the 17th so will stay an extra day in Argentina. 1 night there and then a 16 hr bus ride to Sao Paulo, Brazil and hopefully a connecting 4 hr bus to Paraty for some beach time. My mind is overloaded with the amount of pictures to upload from Antarctica and Iguazu Falls. Will do my best tomorrow when I will have more time.
January 17, 2011. (Foz de Iguazu, Brazil)
Only a 30 minute bus ride to Foz de Iguazu, Brazil from Puerto Iguazu, Argentina. 8 checked my bags at the hostel and then headed for the Brazilian side of Iguazu Falls. Many claim the Argentine side is better because you are so close to the falls that you get soaking wet. For that reason also many pictures have too much moisture from the falls to get a really great picture. The Brazilian side was INCREDIBLE and offered many great pictures of the falls with many more falls in the picture. Momentarily considered the $100 ten minute helicopter flight over the falls but will try and get a YouTube video instead. Can't wait to post pictures. Day trip tomorrow to 2nd largest dam in the world after the 3 Gorges Dam in China then 4 pm bus for 22 hours to Paraty for some great beach time.
January 18, 2011. (Ciudad del Estes, Paraguay)
Will go short distance across the river to visit Paraguay on short day trip before my 22 hr bus ride to Paraty, Brazil at 4 pm. It is known for its shops and malls. Our guide referred to it as the "Walmart of South America". Everything is cheaper in Paraguay. We went to a spot where all 3 countries (Paraguay, Brazil and Argentina) meet at one point.
January 20, 2011
Made it to Paraty, Brazil after 29 hrs on a bus and 3 hr connection in the terminal. Thought I had direct bus from Foz to Sao Paulo but no, got dropped off in Santos and had to figure out that I should get a connecting bus on my own because all anyone speaks is Portuguese. But got connecting bus to Sao Paulo which took about 1 hr and then found out SOMEHOW (because everyone only speaks Portuguese) that I was at the wrong bus station. The other was clear across town so SOMEHOW I figured out how to use the Metro (subway) and made it to the other station and bought my ticket to Paraty. But it didn't leave for 3 hrs and I was starving. Any terminal (bus, plane etc.) is not where you want to buy food. I caught the 4 pm bus just in time for rush hour in the city of 13 million. When I finally made it to Parity I used the directions from Hostelworld which did not help at all. I tried asking for help but everyone just speaks Portuguese. (Theme is developing) Finally another hostel showed me where it was since it was Next Door. Unfortunately they still have their old sign from a previous owner and not the name I booked under.
Better today after 12 hrs of sleep. It is not always fun backpacking but so worth every minute of it. Spent over an hour last night trading stories of past adventures. Some people make me feel like a rookie when it come to backpacking where others are listening to every story with amazement. 2 more days here and then to Rio de Janeiro and Ipanema Beach and 1 of the 7 Wonders of the World (Christ the Redeemer).
Went to the beach with my new friend, Sabrina, who moved to Brazil 1.5 months ago from Italy. She is from Romania and learned Portuguese in only 1 month which I think is amazing. She has the ability to immediately make you feel like one of her best friends. Great day listening to her thoughts on life. Looks like she found her place in this world (Paraty). Still looking for mine. May do boat trip to one of the 365 islands (1 for each day of the year).
January 21, 2011. (Paraty Island Cruise)
Went at 11 am on a 5 hr cruise to several islands for swimming and snorkeling. There are 365 islands around the city of Paraty. It was a small boat with only about 10 passengers but of course there were many other boats also doing the same thing. Fun day and one of the reasons I went to Paraty. Leave tomorrow at 10:20 am for the 4 hr bus ride to Rio de Janeiro for a 6 days visit. Staying on Ipanema Beach and hopefully will get a chance to hang glide over Rio de Janeiro and see Christ the Redeemer, one of the 7 Wonders of the World.
January 22, 2011
4 hr bus ride to Rio and arrived around 2:30 pm. Very fortunate that a girl from the hostel in Paraty, Tess, was also going to Rio, so we rode the bus together and shared a cab to the beaches of Copacabana and Ipanema. Just found out the hang gliding trip is $200 for 15 minutes. Decisions, decisions, ha ha, everyone knows I am gonna do it. Time to head the 1 block to Ipanema Beach. Excitement is almost unbearable. 5 nights in Rio and then heading north, not sure where. Missing the grandkids and rest of family a lot.
January 23, 2011. (HANG GLIDING OVER RIO)
Regardless of the cost, I had made up my mind that I would hang glide over Rio when I went to South America. Plus, I had heard so many incredible stories. It was spectacular and breathtaking. 10 minutes of soaring over the city and landing on the Sao Conrado Beach. I also was able to watch many paragliders and hang gliders take off before it was my turn. Will post a few pictures but have a mini DVD of entire flight that I must find out how to transfer to my computer which has no place for Cd's or DVD. Hopefully I will visit Christ the Redeemer or Sugar Loaf Mountain tomorrow. So expensive here, may leave one day early.
January 24, 2011. (Ipanema Beach)
BEACH DAY. Not as crowded as on the weekend. Beautiful, beaches and the women.
January 25, 2010. (Sugarloaf Mountain)
After the free breakfast at the hostel, I caught the 511 bus to Sugar Loaf and caught the tram up to one of the most scenic spots in Rio. About 1300 feet high. Pricey at about $28 but have learned to accept that Rio is just crazy expensive even if backpacking. Stayed a few hours just taking in the scenery and caught the 512 back to the hostel.
January 27, 2011. (Christ the Redeemer)
Went to Corcordoba Mountain today to see, Christ the Redeemer, 1 of the New 7 Wonders of the World , which is on the very top of the mountain and overlooks Rio. Incredible views but unfortunately the sun was behind the statute and my pictures of the statue are not great. The statue is about 240 feet tall.
January 29, 2011. (Recife and Olinda)
Arrived on an earlier flight to Recife around 11 pm and of course, the buses quit running. Luckily a taxi was only $10 even though that still hurts to pay. The lack of English and high prices, especially along the coast of Brazil are beginning to take its toll on me. With rooms at $30 a night in the dorm and transportation being so much more than anticipated, my budget is being crushed. However, leave for Manaus in the middle of the Amazon on Feb. 9th and then will bus up into Venezuela. Will discuss that trip a little more when I get a better grasp on it and way the dangers. Almost like traveling in China except most of the hostels there spoke better English.
January 31, 2011. (Natal, Brazil)
So glad to be out of Recife. Hard to see sights in Olinda when no one at the hostel speaks more than 2 words of English. Even in China, many people learned at least a little English in preparation of the Olympics. Most Brazilians speak neither English or Spanish. With the World Cup in 2014 and Olympics in 2016 you would think that everyone would be learning to speak English. Enough ranting. Chilling out in Natal for 10 days until I bus for 8 hrs to Fortaleeza to catch my flight to Manaus. From there I bus into Venezuela. Got to talk to Scott, Kade and Madison on Skype last night and it was long overdue. Hopefully I will get recharged over next 10 days. No plans except for beach, swimming pool and 1 days of dune buggies on the high sand dune around Natal. It is supposed to be great fun with professional drivers taking you flying over the sand dunes for an entire day. Another unplanned expenditure. Luckily the free breakfast not only includes fruit but bread, ham and cheese. You know what I am thinking , right. Always make 1 or 2 ham sandwiches and keep for lunch.
February 3, 2011. (New hostel (home) in Natal)
Moved to a new hostel, actually a home masquerading as a hostel 2 days ago. Got a private room, they have the better beach on Ponto Negra and a pool. Staying here until my flight to Manaus. Doing nothing but relaxing and trying not to spend any money. Still thinking about Venezuela. Either way I will be going on the slow boat for 6.5 days up the Amazon in a hammock. I did that once before and while an experience, not that much fun either. But it gets me to Leticia where Colombia, Brazil and Peru meet and I can get a cheap plane to Cartagenca. Then Colombia will be my home for the rest of my trip. ( I think) Cuba ???????????????????????????
The beaches here are beautiful and found my new favorite food, Acai Ice Cream. Acai's taste is often described as a cross between blackberries and unsweetened chocolate. There are full of antioxidants.
February 8, 2011. (Bus to Fortaleeza and plane to Manaus then bus to Santa Elena)
After 11 days of fun and sun and getting recharged in Natal, I am ready to resume my backpacking through South America for the last few legs of my journey. Tonight at 8:15 pm I take a bus for 8.5 hrs to Fortaleeza and then a taxi (since its 4 am) to the airport. Then I take a 9am flight to Manaus and then straight to the bus station, where I will wait for 7 hrs until the 8 pm bus to Santa Elena, Venezuela which will take 15 hrs. Busy 40 hrs of backpacking.
February 10, 2011. (SNAKES & 1ST DAY OF CLIMB ???)
The first day of the six day climb started out fine but all of a sudden I found myself faced with a rattlesnake ready to strike right next to my foot. I kicked at the snake repeatedly trying to deflect its strike and keep its fangs from sinking into my leg. I was still kicking when ....................
I woke up on the bus to Santa Elena (starting point for the trek) and was kicking the foot rest of the seat repeatedly. I quickly looked at the passenger next to me and luckily he was still sleeping. I was still 6 hrs away from Santa Elena. I wondered if this was a nightmare or a premonition. Upon arriving at Santa Elena I signed up for the 6 day climb and at 6 pm we had the briefing about the climb from the local expert who has written 3 books on Roraima (from Lost World fame).
He said the climb would be difficult but the real danger was snakes. Coral snakes, RATTLESNAKES, and some other snake which could kill you within 20 minutes of being bitten. The fact that our bathroom consists of a roll of toilet paper and any bush you can find did not help matters. A lot grass along the trail along the way had been burned to rid some of the snakes. I stayed as close to the guides as possible.
Luckily it was a nightmare and not a premonition.
February 11-16th, 2011. (Climbing Roraima in Venezuela)
Over 50 miles hiking, climbing (using hands a lot) up over 9000 feet in 5 hrs, walking up and under 2 waterfalls, wading waist deep through two rivers, sleeping in tents on rock, and bathrooms which consisted of a roll of toilet paper and wherever you could find space. Hopefully away from the many snakes that supposedly are on this trek even though we luckily did not see any. Our guide said there are partial to Norwegians. lol
Roraima is the largest of the "tepuis" , flat topped mountains, which is 6 miles long on one side. It is made up completely of sandstone but there is lots of vegetation growing out of rocks due to the moisture and nutrients that the winds blow to the top of the mountain. There are crystal valleys and crytal rivers which is a sight to behold and the mountain is rumored to have specific powers and intersects the lines from Machu Picchu and Stonehenge. Strange sounds including voices and lights have been heard and seen from the tepuy nearest to Roaraima which is no longer allowed to climb due to strange behavior in the people climbing and lost climbers who were never found. (Sounds like a great movie of the week) There are over 40 different types of orchids and the weather has created incredible sandstone figures which are all named, such as the flying turtle pictured below.The surface has been compared to the moon. Will have to take their word on that, haven't been there, YET. lol
We also walked for 8 hrs one day while on top to the Triple Point, where the borders of Brazil, Colombia and Guyana meet. Technically I walked into Guyana for 1 minute but will not count that on my tattoo.
The price to pay to see something that most will never see. (Unfortunately, but hopefully more will make the effort) Great times. Hiked with Swiss couple and Gilbert (Jill Bear) from France.
February 19-25th, 2011
I found a boat leaving sooner than expected. Paid the $180 US for the 6.5 day journey up the Amazon which does not include your hammock (bought for $24) but does include all meals. My experience 4 years ago going downriver from Iquitos on the Amazon was less than a favorable experience. This trip, however, was much better than expected. The boat was larger and newer and the meals were really good for this type of cruise. HOWEVER, every lunch and dinner were exactly the same except for the type of meat served. The meal consisted of rice, beans, spaghetti noodles, and meat or chicken. Still loved it until about the 4th day then I was craving almost anything else. There were approximately 200 passengers on board and every hammock was touching someone elses. People started lining up for each meal approximately 1 hour before they began serving because the dining room only served about 30 people at a time. We got a much closer view of the banks of the Amazon than those who go down river because the boat stays close to the bank to keep away from the current. Most of the time we were within 100 to 150 feet from the banks. Not much to do during the day but watch the scenery, eat and sleep in your hammock. At night the top deck turned into a Salsa dance club with many Skol beers being consumed. I made some really great friends on the trip, Bobby (Canada), Hanas (Italy), Elise (Colombia) and Sonny (Australia). The sunsets were spectacular with the sun setting sometimes on the Amazon River and others with thunderstorms putting on a lightning spectacular. The first 4 days went by fast as the boat never docked at any other ports but starting on the 5 th day we stopped several times a day which was so boring. You can only watch people unload things for so long. The 6th day we stopped in port for 11 hours which was an eternity. Back to the hammock for more sleep was usually the remedy for boredom. So happy to land in Tabatinga, Brazil and then walk the 2 km to Leticia, Colombia. Finally on solid ground again. So happy I did this trip as I made great friends and added a more positive perspective to river travel on the Amazon than my previous trip. Thought that I saw a pink river dolphin at the mouth of a river that empties into the Amazon but it was a Manatee, how cool. Picture included.
February 25, 2011
The 4 Amigos (myself, Bobby, Hanas, and Sonny) and the chica (Elize) went in search of accommodations upon arriving in Leticia. The guys all found a dorm in a very nice hotel for only $10 a person in 4 bed dorm while Elise stayed with a friend of hers. Elise and Hanas are now an item and we are in danger of becoming the 3 Amigos (lol). We all ate food other than what we had been eating for 7 days and enjoyed a few beers. I ordered a hamburger which came with a meat pattie, lettuce, tomato, cheese and a piece of ham on it. HAMburger, I guess. Should not be surprised because it is the 3rd time this trip it has happened. Just glad it did not have a fried egg on top like there has been on a few occasions. Everyone else but me decided to go out for a night on the town. For once I used my better judgment and turned in after they decided to leave the hotel around 11 pm and search for more entertainment. They came in late making quite a ruckus. Payback was served by me at 7 am the next morning. Good times. I fly out of Leticia on the 28th to Cartagena for 4 days and then bus to Santa Marta for some Caribbean beach time.
March 1, 2011. (COLOMBIA, Cartagena)
Arrived in Cartagena last night after a 3.5 hr flight from Leticia. The taxi ride to the hostel was short (10 minute) but expensive ($7.50). The Hostel El Viajero Cartagena is within the historic and walled portion of the old city. Today I hiked along the wall of the old city and took pictures of all of the old structures which have been maintained well. 3 more nights here and then to Santa Marta for 2 nights.
March 4-6th, 2011. (COLOMBIA, Santa Marta)
Travel day. Take 4.5 hr to shuttle to Santa Marta. Something didn't feel right when I arrived at the hostel. Maybe the fact there was a MALL across the street from the hostel made it feel like Santa Marta was too commercial for my taste. I started making alternate plans soon after checking in. Tanganga, a nearby Caribbean village, would be my destination soon and only a 45 minute bus ride.
March 6 - 23rd, 2011
No plans here but relaxing by the hostel pool, watching sunsets, drinking beer and some beach time. I love the sunsets at the village port. The sun always seems to set perfectly while musicians play and people sip chilled rum. When the sun sets, the musicians stop ...... in acknowledgement. A great time is had by all.
After great couple of weeks at Taganga enjoying the beach and sunsets, I was summoned home by my granddaughter, Madison and flew home on the 23rd of March. I still had 4 weeks before my original return flight but was able to change the date for $150. Great time in South America and Antarctica. Time to start planning for the next adventure, but must spend quality time with the family first.
TRIP OF A LIFETIME, AGAIN. I am very fortunate.
CHAPTER 15. CANADA, Vancouver and ALASKA (May 31 - July 6th)
CANADA
May 31, 2011. (Baton Rouge to Seattle to Vancouver)
Fly out of BR airport at 5:30 am. Thanks to my son, Jon, who took me to the airport at 3:30 am. . A change of planes in Houston and arrived at Seattle at 12 pm. 8 hr. wait for my friend to arrive and then we took the "Seattle to Vancouver" shuttle at 9 pm. Arrived at Vancouver at 1:30 am and walked the two blocks to the Samesun Hostel. Long day.
Note: I was much cheaper flying to Seattle and taking a shuttle than flying to Vancouver.
June 1, 2011. (CANADA, Vancouver, Granville Island)
Moved from private room to 6 bed male dorm today. Then walked to Granville Island to see the market and shops. That afternoon we took the ferry and bus to see the Lynn Valley Suspension Bridge. 2 Irish guys and 1 from England and 1 from Ohio sharing the room. The Vancouver Canucks won the first game of the Stanley Cup and the bars and streets were filled with celebrating fans. Not best of nights to sleep in hostel but that is what you do for inexpensive rooms.
June 2, 2011. (CANADA, Vancouver, rainy day)
It rained all day so we did not get a chance to go to Stanley Park. Great chill day. Pitchers of beer in the hostel bar with Irish guys that evening.
June 3, 2011. (CANADA, Victoria, Vancouver Island)
Beautiful day. We caught the sky train to the Greyhound bus station and then caught the bus/ferry/bus to Victoria on Vancouver Island. Beautiful ferry ride. Checked in the Ocean Island Backpackers Hostel and walked to the Inner Harbour.
June 4, 2011. (CANADA, Victoria, Vancouver Island)
Decided to skip the Buchart Gardens. Supposedly very beautiful but not paying $25 per person plus $10 transportation to see flowers that are everywhere in Victoria. The Empress Hotel (where my sister, Sandra, had high tea on her visit last year) and the Parliament building are beautiful and lit up at night. 3 cruise ships in Victoria today so very crowded plus Canucks won again and celebrations are beginning. Leave Monday on 9.5 hr bus ride to north island town of Port Hardy. We catch a 13 hr ferry on Tuesday to Prince Rupert which is supposedly spectacular.
June 6, 2011. (Greyhound from Victoria to Port Hardy)
Took the 7:30 am bus from Victoria to Port Hardy. (9.5 hrs.) It was a beautiful and scenic bus ride but chilly. Took sandwiches for lunch and dinner. Staying night at hostel in Port Hardy and then 7:30 am ferry ride to Prince Rupert. (15 hrs but beautiful Inside Passage scenery)
June 7-9th, 2011. (Inside Passage , Ferry Port Hardy to Prince Rupert)
Had to leave the hostel at 5 am for the 20 minute shuttle ride to the ferry. The ferry ride was very comfortable and the scenery was fantastic. Beautiful snow topped mountains. Saw a few whales but could not get a photo as they did not surface for long. We were picked up at 10:45 pm by the hostel and quickly crashed. Will be in Prince Rupert until the 9th and then another long ferry ride. (2 days on the Inside Passage but in Alaska) Can't wait.
ALASKA
June 9, 2011. (Prince Rupert, Canada to Juneau, Alaska by Ferry)
Boarded the Taku Ferry using the Sea Alaska Pass (allows one to hop on , hop off at 3 ports from Prince Rupert to Skagway) at 5:30 am. The Inside Passage was especially beautiful when going through the narrows. There was a 3 hr. layover in Ketchikan so I disembarked and did the tourist thing for few hours. The ferry left Wrangell after a brief 1 hr stop around 11:30 pm. This part of the journey is the most dangerous as the ferry has to navigate through narrow passages at night with many small islands in the middle of the passageway. There are multi-colored lights on both sides and on the islands in the middle. They are called the Christmas Lights. It was beautiful along the 72 mile trip but little scary. About ten of us stayed up until about 3am when we finished navigating the passage. Then slept on the floor in between the rows of seats until about 7 am. Cheaper than a cabin.
June 10, 2011. (Juneau ferry to Haines, Alaska)
Incredible day. 1 hr before arriving at Juneau I saw a humpback whale breach (leap halfway out of water) right in front of me. Luckily I was at the front of the ferry taking pictures when it breached. I got a good picture which I will post as soon as possible. The ship actually had to swerve to keep from hitting the whale. Arrived at Juneau port which is actually 14 miles outside Juneau at 1:30 pm. Then bought ticket to Haines and continued on the Inside Passage at 3 pm. Arrived at Haines at 7:30 pm and hostel owner forgot to pick us up. We called him and he apologized for the misunderstanding. Stayed 2 nights in Haines and it is very beautiful though not much to do. Met nice girl from the Netherlands, Claire, who continued on to Skagway on the fast ferry with us 2 days later.
June 12, 2011. (ALASKA, Haines to Skagway)
Caught the 1 pm fast ferry to Skagway. Only a 40 minute ride but beautiful. Found the Skagway Home Hostel without too much trouble. Did not like the co-ed dorm so moved to the male dorm inside the owner's house. Much nicer and only $5 more. There are fewer than 1000 residents of Skagway but sometimes more than 10,000 tourists when 3-4 cruise ships arive at the same time. Skagway was the starting point for most that arrived for the Alaska Gold Rush. The town's main street is Broadway and most of the buildings have been preserved and leased out to jewelry stores, gift shops and restaurants. Went to the Bonanza Saloon to watch the Mavs beat the Heat. Great game but did not care for the $5.50 beer but do what you gotta do. Will be here 4 nights and then to Juneau for 6 days.
June 13, 2011. (Hiking and lots of tourists in Skagway)
2.5 hour hike to Lower Dewey Lake this morning. Nice view overlooking the harbor and town. Went to the grocery store for supplies and walked around town in the afternoon watching all the tourists from the 3 cruise ships. The steam locomotive came back in from its trip through the mountains. Would love to do the train through the mountains but gotta cut back on expenses. Doing the train trip from Seward to Denali and that will have to do. You can not do everything on every trip.
June 15, 2011. (Last day in Skagway)
Still amazed at the number of people that descend on Broadway Street in Skagway each day. There are always 2-4 cruise ships arriving with up to 12,000 people. Luckily for those staying here it ends each evening as the people board their enormous ships and set sail. The town must make their profit for the year in the 3 months of tourist season. After that, most board up their stores until spring except for 2 cafes and the local grocery store.
Today is the last full day in Skagway. Leave tomorrow on the 10 am ferry for Juneau. Expecting another beautiful day and hope to see whales and seals. Will do a little hiking to Reid Falls later today.
June 16, 2011. (ALASKA, Juneau)
Early 7 am ferry to Juneau. We saw about 15 killer whales playing around, though not too close, and a couple of humpback whales. I think the ferry rides from town to town see as much whale action as the whale tours that are expensive. After arriving at the Juneau ferry terminal, 14 miles from town, decided to walk the two miles to the bus stop rather than paying $30 for taxi to Juneau. Beautiful day and saw an eagle in the tree along the road. Made it to the hostel at 4 pm but the hostel does not open until 5 pm.
I have never seen a hostel like this one. It is a beautiful large house and they only charge $10 per night for the dorm bed. You must sign up to do one chore a day to help keep costs down. You must leave at 9 am every morning and cannot get back in until 5 pm. (this is a lockout) Many hostels have a lockout for a few hours to cleans but never seen one all day. A good way to make you get up and do something. Will either hike today or spend day in library posting many pictures I have to upload.
Juneau's scenery is BREATHTAKING. It is called "little San Francisco".
Juneau is called little "san francisco" due to its street and houses dot the surrounding mountains, Mount Roberts and Mount Juneau, and bordering the ocean.
The town usually has several cruise ships landing each day during the summer.
June 17, 2011. (Hiking Mount Roberts)
Decided to hike Mount Roberts this morning. It is about 4000 feet high above sea level. When you start hiking next to a cruise ship, you are at sea level. lol It is a joke in Alaska when the tourist get off the cruise ship and ask how high above sea level each town is.
Most tourists take the tram up to the restaurant which is about 2000 ft. I hiked for an hour to the tram and then another 1 hour and 15 minutes to get to the summit. There was a very beautiful view of the Gastineau Channel, surrounding mountains, and Juneau and Douglas. I attempted to complete the Alpine Loop but at one point along the ridge the path was completely covered by snow. After quickly realizing the potential danger, I returned along the path I had taken earlier. The view from the summit was so beautiful that it is one of the highlights of my trip so far.
June 21, 2011. (Ferry from Juneau to Whittier)
We leave at 12:30 pm for the 2.5 day ferry ride across the gulf to Whittier. There are 7 others from the hostel also on the ferry so it should be an interesting trip. 2 nights sleeping on the floor, hopefully we can find some mats like the last overnight ferry. No internet for 2.5 days. Juneau has been beautiful even though the lockout has been a pain in the butt. The ferry ride was spectacular with beautiful snow capped mountains and lots of whales.
June 23, 2011. (Whittier to Seward)
Arrived at Whittier at 7 am. The ferry ride was spectacular. Our shuttle to Seward was not until 1:30 pm as it was coming from Anchorage with other passengers in transit to Seward. We spent time basking in the sun at a restaurants back porch overlooking the bay until then and had a quick bite to eat. The tourists from Anchorage had also paid for a tour along with the transit so we benefited from that without having to pay. Several photo stops and a quick 30 minute visit to a park which had fenced moose, reindeer and bears. A little sad.
We arrived at Seward at 5 pm, checked in and took the free shuttle to Safeway for supplies. The weather was beautiful but looks like the rain will be arriving shortly. Seward is the launching area for trips to the Kenai Peninsula to see whales, seals and glaciers calving.
There was a tsunami warning later in the night. Someone saw on the internet there had been a 7.4 earthquake near the Aleutian Islands and that there was a tsunami warning for the coast of Alaska. We are on the coast but not near the beach. A little higher up the hill. Then the sirens started announcing the tsunami warning. Things got tense and exciting but 5 minutes later the warning was canceled. Good nights sleep especially since no snoring guys, luckily there are 4 women in the coed dorm.
June 24, 2011. (Kenai Fjord National Park , cruise)
Spent $167 on a cruise to the Kenai Fjord National Park to see glaciers, whales, seals and lots of birds. The cruise did not disappoint and was money well spent. We saw lots of whales and glaciers calving (the breaking away of ice chunks from edge of glacier). The cruise included an all you can eat buffet of roast beef and salmon of which I took advantage.
June 26th and 27th, 2011. (Seward to Anchorage to Denali)
Train from Seward to Anchorage on the 26th. Then night at hostel in Anchorage and 8 am train to Denali National Park. Beautiful ride but cloudy. Saw bears, moose, eagles and beautiful scenery. Arrived in Denali and checked into the Denali Mountain Morning Hostel which is located outside Denali National Park and was my best budget option.
June 28, 2011. (Denali National Park)
I took the hostel shuttle to the Park to catch the 9 am shuttle through the park. Unfortunately, everything was booked and we had to take the 10 am shuttle to the Eielson Visitor Center. It was an 8 hr bus ride and we saw grizzly bears, caribou, moose and eagles. Great trip but did not see Denali (Mount Whitney). Denali is only visible about 30% of the time so not too disappointed. Considering a summit airplane flight which is expensive but supposedly you can see climbers attempting to summit Denali. Will hope weather is up for it. Nice park but only has 92 miles of accessible road. Hostel is 14 miles outside the park but has a free shuttle to the park and back.
June 30, 2011. (Denali Park bus to Wonder Lake)
Took the 11 hour bus shuttle to Wonder Lake. Saw lots of grizzlies, a bull moose which is rare, few caribou and some sheep. Cloudy day but not cold like the other day. Did not get to see Denali (Mount McKinley) due to cloud cover. Only 3 out of 10 visitors EVER see Denali due to clouds. I may take a summit plane trip tomorrow to due that hopefully. The bus 1 hr before mine saw Denali for about 10 seconds.
July 2, 2011. (Denali Summit Flight)
The weather did not look so good when I got up at 5 am and did not look any better when the driver of Fly Denali picked us up at 9 am. He said we would probably not fly but later said the weather had changed and we would see the summit. There were 8 of us in the twin turbo prop plane which had oxygen for us to use when we reached 12,000 feet. We climbed to an altitude of 20,000 feet to circle the summit of Denali (Mt. McKinley). While the sky was clear mostly and we could see most of the mountain, the summit was obscured by clouds. We got a few shots as we circled and even saw a group of climbers coming down from the summit. Still going over my pictures to determine if I got the summit in any of them. Not GREAT trip for $328 but still a lot of fun. The flight was over 1.5 hrs long. The pilot had requested we get an adjustment on our price but still no word on that and it does not look likely. Think it is just the luck of the draw. Weather changes quickly in Alaska. I am told the winter is the best time to see Denali when its cold and the air is crystal clear. I also hope to go back in the winter and see the Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights) one day.
10 days later after complaining to the hostel, they contacted the airplane flight tour company and they refunded the entire fee.
July 3rd. Flight to Seattle from Anchorage.
I flew to Seattle to spend a few days after my Alaska adventure and the return flight was much cheaper by flying RT to Seattle. My hostel was near the Pike Place Market so I was able to spend time there.
July 4, 2011. (Seattle 4th of July Fireworks)
Found out a great place to watch the fireworks that not too many people know about from girl working at the hostel. While over 40,000 were watching from Gas Works across the bay, I was watching from the other side high on a hill with a few hundred. Took me about 45 minutes to walk there and fireworks started at 10 pm and lasted until 10:45.
July 5, 2011. (View from 73rd Floor of Bank America)
While most go to the Space Needle for a view of Seattle, I took the advice of the hostel and guidebook and went to the Bank America Building (Seattle's tallest) and looked at Seattle from the 73rd floor observation deck. Much higher and cheaper (only $5) than the Space Needle. Advice from the hostel always gives you the best advice travelers and usually the least expensive version. Last day on this trip. Fly home tomorrow. GREAT TRIP, AGAIN.
CHAPTER 16. GUATEMALA
DECEMBER 14, 2011. (GUATEMALA, Antigua)
Great first few days in Antigua. Can't believe I left when it was in the 20's in Louisiana and now its in the 70's. Having trouble posting pictures but will do my best when possible. Climbed Cerro de La Cruz which overlooks the city yesterday. Great workout and great pictures. 5 more days here and then to Lake Atitlan for a week or so. Will miss seeing Kade and Madison for Christmas but sure they will be busy with friends and family.
December 19, 2011. (GUATEMALA, San Pedro on Lake Atitlan)
Caught the 9 am shuttle to San Pedro on beautiful Lake Atitlan, called by many the most beautiful lake in the world. Staying same place as last year at Hotel Villa del Lago. A private room/private bath with television and internet for $6.25 with a beautiful patio view of the lake. Very fortunate the room was available. Not as much to do here but that also is the beauty. Will try and visit some of the many villages around the lake by boat and maybe hike another volcano like last time I was here.
December 20, 2011
Love the laid back atmosphere of San Pedro and The Lake. Walked around and got reacquainted and also found some new spots. Met 2 "mature" travelers who were sisters and one was from South Africa and the other from England. We had nice chat over breakfast (ham & cheese omelet, bread, fruit, fried beans, guacamole and coffee for $2.50) and I gave them some backpacking knowledge that I had acquired about Guatemala.
December 23, 2011
As it gets closer to Christmas, my decision to leave before Christmas makes me second guess whether I should have waited. However, since none of my family or friends use heat in the freezing winter, I had no choice or either freeze. LOL Actually everyday seems like Christmas when I am with Kade and Madison.
My decision to come back to Guatemala was done to save up money for future travels next winter and hopefully a new travel business when I return in a few months. I am doing really well on my budget in San Pedro. My budget is $20 a day for everything, room, food, and entertainment. So far I have been under that budget and many days spending about $13 a day. It is so hard to believe that my beautiful , private room with tv (and HBO) only cost $6.25 a night and has a balcony overlooking Lake Atitlan.
There was an incident with a "mature" traveler who was leaving and thought he should get a refund for prepaying. He started screaming at the hosttel owner, Gladys, and then grabbed her by the shoulders and started shaking her. Luckily I was standing nearby and stepped in between him and her. I am not a hero but could not just stand around and let a man physically abuse a woman.
Loving the lake and its tranquility. Learning the Latino way, to slow everything down and just enjoy life. I am learning to walk slower , trying to talk slower and pay more attention to my surroundings. Every child here seems to be selling something but they also seem very happy.
December 25, 2011. (CHRISTMAS DAY)
The day started out unbelievably. At midnight I was awakened by fireworks. I walked out on my patio and all the villages around the lake were simultaneously setting off fireworks. While the fireworks were not anything special in themselves, the overall picture of all the villages working together to coordinate this was very special and moving.
The day only got better as I was able to talk to Scott, Kade and Madison on Skype, an invention that has made travel more bearable when not with loved ones.
The Alegre Pub sold Brunch and Christmas Dinner tickets to a small few regulars and backpackers for only $15. This is quite a good deal since they involve an unlimited breakfast buffet with mimosa and Christmas dinner is an unlimited dinner with Turkey, Ham and all the trimmings along with a glass of wine. In the afternoon they will show A Christmas Story in English upstairs in the movie room.
While not the same as being with family, it is nice that they try to make us feel at home while traveling.
December 28, 2011. (Quiet and peaceful on the Lake)
With Christmas over and New Years approaching I plan on enjoying the peaceful solitude of Lake Atitlan and the small village of San Pedro la Laguna.
A few observations:
Each store in the village washes the cobblestone streets in front of their business with soap and water. Almost all of the indigenious people wear traditional clothing and which is a source of pride for them. Women are selling all type of bread early in the morning out of a basket such as cinnamon rolls and banana bread for only 50 cents each.
But what amazes me most is that these women are waist deep in the lake at 6 am washing clothes and bathing. Even the owner of the hotel I am staying in bathes and washes her hair even though she lives in the hotel and they all have hot showers. Tradition and the simple life. I find myself doing with less as each day passes.
December 30, 2011.
Eating cheap and healthier, catching up on movies on HBO, enjoying the beautiful scenery are all part of my plan to save lots of money while here. While not yet acquiring monk status, I am only socializing on weekends no matter how inexpensive the pubs make the drinks.
December 31, 2011. (New Year's Eve)
Great New Year's at Alegre Pub and perfect way to end the year in one of my favorite places in the World, Lake Atitlan. Fireworks at midnight woke me up but were spectacular as villages all around the lake were celebrating. The view of fireworks reflecting over the lake with the mountains in the backdrop was worth losing a little sleep. Happy New Years to ALL.
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