SECTION 9. (2014 TRAVELS)

CHAPTER 27.   MEXICO, THAILAND,  INDIA,  BURMA (MYANMAR), VIETNAM & INDONESIA 

MEXICO

January 1-8th. 

New Years in Merida, Mexico. Next day I took the 6:30 am (2 hour) bus to Chichen Itza to visit the Mayan Ruins, one of the 7 Wonders of the World. Later that afternoon I bus another 3.5 hours to visit my friend Mindi for some fun and sun before my flight to Asia on the 8th from Cancun to Bangkok.

ASIA

 January 8, 2014.   (Flight to Bangkok, Thailand)

This journey began catching a bus at 8 pm from Playa del Carmen to Cancun after visiting my friend, Mindi, for several days. The bus ride was only 45 minutes but the night in the airport took forever. My flight did not leave until 7am the next morning. And then in the wisdom of Delta Airline, My flight to San Francisco had a 6 hr layover in Atlanta, then another connection in Detroit before arriving LATE in San Francisco at 11:15 pm. Unfortunately my SFO flight to Bangkok leaves at midnight. Somehow I made it. Then the China Airlines flight to Tapeii had some diifficulty so we were late there. They held the connecting flight to Bangkok for us and we made it but those who do NOT use carryon baggage only did not get their baggage. I made it to Bangkok at 11 am on January 10th, a journey of about 39 hrs. The joy of travel. Lol

January 10th.   (THAILAND,  Bangkok)

Not my favorite place and as a rule, not a fan of big cities. But here I am for 4 days as I apply for my Visa to India. I finally got all my info complete and hopefully will get my Visa in the next 6-8 days. I did go visit the Grand Palace and Reclining Buddha which was nice. Also had nice boat ride down tne river.

January 14th.   (THAILAND,  Koh Samed)

With protests going on in Bangkok and the fact I don't like Bangkok, I decided to visit the island of Koh Samed or Koh Samet for the 1st time. I had at least a week before my Visa for India will be ready and it was only 4 hrs from Bangkok. I have visited many islands in Thailand and most are more beautiful than here BUT this is probably my favorite. Beautiful beaches, inexpensive rooms and food and its compact. You can walk everywhere. Not as touristy as other islands. Lots of ex pats from Finland, Sweden and Russia along with big crowds of Thais from Bangkok on weekend but not too crowded.

January 22, 2014.  (THAILAND, Bangkok)

Now that I have gotten my Indian Visa and Myanmar Visa, just waiting for flight to New Delhi on Sunday. Have found something I like in Bangkok, KFC has 2 chicken breasts, fries and drink for $2.95 including tax. Will use savings to let out my waistline. Lol.

January 26, 2014.   (Flight from Bangkok to Delhi, India)

I stayed a couple of days in New Delhi before starting the Golden Triangle which includes Delhi, Agra and Jaipur. I am also including a Tiger Safari, Jaisalmer and camel safari.

January 28, 2014.   INDIA, Agra,  Taj Mahal)   Red Fort 

My hotel was only 5 minutes from the Taj Mahal but unfortunately it was closed by the time I arrived. Early plans tomorrow. 

January 29, 2014.  (TAJ MAHAL)

Up at 6 am and at gates at 6:45 awaiting the 7 am opening. Amazing views at sunrise. The entrance fee was 750 rupees ($12.50) which is not much for one of  7 wonders of the World. A local guide inside the Taj Mahal kept following me and asking to be my guide. I did not want to pay an extra fee but he kept pointing out a few good places to take pictures so I gave him an adequate tip for his help. 

The Taj Mahal is an ivory white mausoleum commissioned in 1632 to house the tomb of his favorite wife who died in childbirth. It was built over a 20 year period.

There is a miniature version of the Taj Mahal in Agra, just much smaller and considered a draft and practice version of the much larger Taj Mahal which I also visited. 

January 30, 2014.   (Taj Mahal at sunset)

Supposedly one of the great pictures you can take is from across the river. Usually there us a tour fee involved to get to that location. Fortunately a local near the Taj Mahal entrance told me that local fishermen docked the side of the Taj Mahal would row you to the middle of the River for $1 to get the perfect photo, which I did.

February 1-3rd, 2014.    (INDIA, Jaipur)

I took a bus for the 4 hour journey to Jaipur. While here I visited the Amber Fort and made plans for a Tiger Safari which I am looking forward to.

February 3-5th, 2014.   (Tiger Safari in Ranthambhore National Park)

I stayed in Sawai Modhapur 2 nights and did 3 safaris to Ranthambhore National Park. This is one of the best areas in India to see the elusive Tiger. They say there is usually only  10% chance of seeing one. The region is divided into 6 regions and luck of the draw determines your regions. There are about 43 Tigers here. The cost is minimal, only about $35 pet safari including entrance. Unfortunately no luck but the last day there was a sighting near the main road as we approached our zone but it had gone by the time we arrived. It is a mountainous area and very beautiful. We did see a hyena, though my pic is not so good. We also saw lots of deer, peacocks, owls, other birds, crocodiles, monkeys and a wild boar. Definitely should have stayed a couple more days and tried again but another journey.

February 5-7th, 2014.    (INDIA,  Jodhpur)

Another long bus (6 hours).  Jodhpur is a city in the Thar Desert. It's 15th century Meghrangarth Fort is now a museum displaying weapons, paintings and elaborate royal chairs. 

February 7-10th.    (INDIA,  Jaisalmer)

Went to Jaisalmer specifically for the camel safari but the fort was amazing. Jaisalmer is a "living fort" as people live and have shops within its walls. Stayed at guesthouse Surja which had an amazing view of the man made lake and sunrise. Jaisalmer was definitely my favorite place in India on this trip.

February 10-11th, 2014.   (Camel Safari)

Due to time constraints I only did a 1 night safari into the desert, only 60 miles from Pakistan border in the Thari Desert. Great experience but not a fan of riding camels, very painful. Great bunch on safari with 2 From Australia (Tasmania), 1 girl from Netherlands, 1 girl from China, 1 guy from Belgium, another from Spain and me. Quite the conversations while sitting around the camp fire.

February 12-14th, 2014.   (Overnight train Jaisalmer to New Delhi)

Not sure what I was thinking but took an 18 hour overnight train to New Delhi. To make things worse I chose to purchase a 3rd class ticket, which was the cheapest, because I am a backpacker. Now its obvious to me sometimes I am a stupid  backpackers. After securing me place on a wooden bench, a young Indian boy sat next to me and asked if I was lost. I asked why and he said this was 3rd  class. He said backpackers take the much more comfortable 2nd class which was only $1.50 more. Lesson learned, cheaper may not be best option always. I am still learning every day. He was happy since he had an opportunity to practice his English. As the night progressed, it got colder and the numerous holes in the walls of the 3rd class car did little to stop the air.  Most others had blankets but not me. Lesson learned.  One last night in New Delhi and flight to Mandalay,  Myanmar. 

February 15, 2014.   (New Delhi to Bangkok to Mandalay)

Long day but finally arrived in Mandalay . 

February 16th - February 2nd, 2914  (MYANMAR, Mandalay and Bagan)

Wonderful to revisit Myanmar (Burma) again since they are no longer under military rule. After a few nights in Mandalay, I took a boat  to Bagan. The 8 hour boat ride took 32 hours as we ended up grounded due to low water in the middle of the river overnight. Loved Bagan and stayed there for over a week and saw the magnificent Valley of Temples with several thousand abandoned temples dotting the valley.  I had hoped to do the early morning sunrise balloon ride over the Temples but it was booked weeks in advance. The people were the nicest people that I have met ANYWHERE in the world. They honestly wanted to help you and it was not money motivated.

February 21st - March 2nd, 2014.    (MYANMAR,  Bagan)

Wonderful to revisit Burma (Myanmar) again since they are no longer under military rule. Flew from Bangkok straight to Mandalay where I spent a few days.  Then I took a boat to Bagan. The 8 hour boat ride took 32 hours as we ended up grounded due to low water in the middle of the river overnight. Loved Bagan and stayed there for over a week and saw the magnificent Valley of Temples with several thousand abandoned temples dotting the valley. I had hoped to take a sunrise balloon ride over the Temples  but all were booked weeks in advance.  I did climb to the top of several Temples for some good photos. The people were the nicest people that I have met ANYWHERE in the world. They honestly wanted to help you and it was not money motivated.

February 2, 2014.   (Flight to Hanoi, Vietnam)

This was my first trip to Vietnam. Unfortunately my impression was that everyone was trying to cheat me. I spent a few days seeing the sights and then a 3 day boat trip to Halong Bay. Once again myself and several other backpackers did not get what we paid for. Back to Hanoi for the night and then an overnight bus to Hue. 

February 10, 2014.   (Nightmare bus to Hue)

I SPECIFICALLY PAID FOR AN OVERNIGHT BUS WITH A TOILET.  It was written on my ticket. After boarding the bus I realized there was no toilet and began complaining. At some point the bus driver threatened to kick me off the bus in the middle of nowhere.  Finally he got the bus owner in the phone and I was transferred  to a bus with a toilet . Ironically  the buses arrived in Hue simultaneously.  I no longer practice law but SOMETIMES it will re-emerge and that's not a good thing typically. 

February 11-13th.   (VIETNAM,  Hue)

The major attraction is the 19th century Dai Noi Citadel, surrounded by a moat and nstone walls. It includes the Imperial City with palaces and shrines.

February  13-24th, 2014.    (VIETNAM,  Hoi Ann)

Hoi Ann happened just in time as I was getting disenchanted  with Vietnam.. I had planned on staying only a few days before continuing  to Ho Chi Minh City.  But that quickly changed and decided this would be my last destination  in Vietnam. Staying 11 night here was so easy. My hostel had a swimming pool, unlimited free breakfast with omelet, pancake and desert stations, plus the beautiful beaches were only a short distance away.  It sits on the Perfume River and in the evening they light floating lanterns. 

February 24-27th, 2014  (INDONESIA,  Denpasar and Ubud)

Only here a few days as the "typical " Bali beaches are not in my budget as my trip end. I caught a taxi straight from Denmark to Ubud which has cheaper accommodations,  the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary and amazing rice terraces. I found out from other backpackers that I should visit the budget friendly , beautiful Gili Islands.  From there I will take budget cruise Komodo Island to see the Komodo Dragons.

February 27th - March 2nd, 2014.   (INDONESIA,  Gili Islands)

The Gili Islands were everything I hoped for with cheap accommodations, cheap food and beautiful beaches. While here I booked a 5 day cruise through the Island to Komodo Island.

March 2-8th, 2014.  (5 night cruise to Komodo Island to Lombok)

A highlight of the trip to Indonesia was sailing for 5 days on a boat to Komodo Island. There were about 15 of us all sleeping on mats. We stopped at several islands and swam daily on a beautiful beach. The Komodo Dragons were incredible and they hunt deer and hogs and even attacked two rangers that were inside their office.

March 10, 2014.   (Lombok flight to Denpasar to New Orleans)

End of another GREAT ADVENTURE.    LML (LOVE MY LIFE)

CHAPTER 28.    (LONDON, ICELAND & GREENLAND) May 18 - May 33rd + (2 Group trips) May 24th - July 1st)

May 18, 2014.   (ENGLAND, London)

Spent 2 days in London before trip to Iceland and Greenland. Visited Big Ben, Parliament, Trafalgar Square, Buckingham Palace, Westminster Abbey and rode theLondon Eye (Ferris wheel) for views of the city. Then walked from Westminster Bridge along the Thames River to London Bridge. Beautiful sunny day with people laying out sunbathing anywhere they could find a place. Weather surprised me on my 1st trip to England as dreary weather was what I always associated it with.

May 19 -21st, 2014.   (ICELAND, Reykjavik)

Caught early flight from London, England to Reykjavik, Iceland. Walked around the city and the harbor. Next day took a tour to the Golden Circle. This day trip included (1) Thingvellia National Parl where the North American and European tectonic plates are separating by 2 cm per year. (2) Geysir which was largest Geysir but now dormant but the Strokkur Geysir was very active and (3) Gulfoss Waterfall. The last day went to the Blue Lagoon thermal spa before my flight.

May 21, 2014.  (GREENLAND)

I caught a turbo prop plane for the flight to Nuuk, Greenland from Reyjavil, Iceland. The 2 hour flight was almost $500 for the one way flight. Since very expensive and I have limited funds only spending one night there but walked around the seaside port of Nuuk and got great views from my flight to Greenland and subsequent flight to Denmark.

IRELAND, PARIS, ITALY and PORTUGAL  Family (May 24th - June 14th)

ITALY, PARIS, SCOTLAND, IRELAND Group  (June 14th -July 1st)

CHAPTER 29.   EASTERN EUROPE (September 27- November 8th)

September 30, 2014.   (CZECH REPUBLIC, Prague, Prague Castle, St. Vitus Cathedral and Strahov Monastery)

I walked up to the Prague Castle which has great views overlooking Prague. On site is also the St. Vitus Cathedral which was beautiful but ABC (another big church). My highlight was a visit to the Strahov Monastery which produces some of the best beer in the world and has best view of Prague. However it was a little hazy when I visited. Also few random street shots. Bacarian Crystal is big here. Some of my shoppers would love it here.

 October 1, 2014.   (CZECH REPUBLIC, Cesky Krumlov)

After early morning pics on St. Charles Bridge I went on a tour to the beautiful village of Cesky Krumlov. Considered by all to be the most beautiful place in the Czech Republic. All day trip with 2.5 hrs each way from Prague. There was a slight rain most of the morning which hampered photos but improved right before we left. 

October 3, 2014.   (POLAND, Krakow)

Spent the day walking around Old Town and the castle. All night bus tonight to Lliv, Ukraine. 

October 4, 2014.   (UKRAINE,  Lviv)

After horrendous night on overnight bus which was so cramped I finally arrived in Lviv, Ukraine before daylight. Decided to pay for taxi because it was still dark and had difficult time finding anyone who spoke English or understood where I wanted to go. Finally found someone. Ironically the Hostel is in the Main Square with a huge banner on the building viewable by everyone. Could not check in for 6 hours as it was full so exhaustion had to wait. Left my bag and started seeing the sights which are not as many as I anticipated. Saw all the sights during the day after couple hours of sleep. Lviv is the most Ukranian of any ciy in the Ukraine with much of the eastern part being Ukraine/Russian, hence the hostilities. I also happened to be there on "Bride Saturday" with new  brides and their husbands roaming the streets with photographers. Lot of people getting married here.

October 5, 2014.    (HUNGARY,  Budapest)

Really enjoyed the beautiful mid 60's sunny day in Budapest. Walked over the Danube River and up to Castle Hill for great view of the city.

October 6, 2014

With all the major sights seen, I decided to spend time in the city park on this beautiful sunny day in high 60's. In cities, which I do not particularly care for, parks are their redeeming quality. In the park was a castle and spa with public baths which seemed very popular. 

October 7, 2014.   (ROMANIA,  Brasov)

Love Brasov, Romania and surrounding area of Transylvania that I have seen. Could really spend a lot of time here as it is beautiful and fairly inexpensive.

October 8, 2014.   (ROMANIA, Dracula's Castle, Peles Castle, & Transfagarasan Highway)

Visited the famous Dracula Castle and there is nothing in truth to Vlad Dracula (Vlad the Impaler) and any ties to vampirism. Those in Romania have long believed in vampires but Vlad was never considered one. His story was made up by Bram Stoker who supposedly never visited Bran Castle or Romania. Vlad the Impaler was noted for his cruelty impaling many of his enemies on dull posts driven through the body. He also never lived in Bran Castle as it was built only as a staging place for his armies to defend or make war plans. The Castle was made livable as a summer home by Queen Maria who was originally from England. She loved this area but hated extravagance and made the castle a very simple place to live with simple furniture. It did have the 2nd elevator built in the world installed since she had a bad foot and loved to visit the garden below the castle. The elevator was installed INSIDE an abandoned well on the castle grounds. This castle was in stark contrast to Peles Castle where other members of royal family would stay.

Visited Peles Castle today. The amazing wood detail is impossible to show through pictures. I refused to pay $10 to take my own photos inside so pulled some off the internet. The first few pics are mine, obviously. Unfortunately it was raining when we arrived. 

Great day driving up this highway with spectacular views especially with the Autumn leaves and small glacier lake at the top.

October 14, 2014.   (BULGARIA, Sofia, Rila Monastery)

Went on a tour to the Rila Monastery about 2 hours out of Sofia. The drive through the mountains was spectacular with the changing of the leaves and magnified when we saw this beautiful monastery nestled in the mountains. The monastery's church was spectacular but unfortunately were not allowed to take pictures. Good day.

October 16, 2014.   (MACEDONIA,  Orhid)

Arrived in Ohrid last night after 3.5 hour bus ride from Skopje. Now time to tell on myself because "stuff" happens backpacking.  Then you just make the best of the situation. After arriving at the bus station I looked at my directions to the hostel which claimed it was only a 3 minute walk. I, of course, refused advances by taxi divers. Long story short. After an hour of looking for the street, I looked back at reservation on my mini ipad and realized I booked the hostel in Skopje and not Ohrid. I had changed my plans at last minute to go to Ohrid but forgot about changing hostel plans. Lol Anyway, taxi driver led me to my current hostel which is amazing. Life goes on.

Walked along the lake and then climbed up to the church for great views of the lake. Most photographed spot in Ohrid according to locals. Then nice hike UP to Samuel's Fortress whose walls are mostly intact but nothing remains within the walls. Also visited the Ancient Roman Amphitheater. Several of the rows of stone seating were removed to accommodate gladiators.

October 18, 2014.  (ALBANIA, Tilaran)

Taxi to Struga then bus to Tilaran, Albania (4 hrs). Only 1 night here which was plenty. Not very exciting from what I saw. Supposedly has lively nightlife but trying to keep costs down. Fly to Belgrade, Serbia tomorrow.

October 19-22nd, 2014.   (SERBIA,  Belgrade)

Staying at Madness Hostel near Republic Square, the center of everything. So far only person staying at the hostel. Lots of pedestrian sidewalk cafes and shopping and they are very proud of their nightlife.

I did the FREE (tips appreciated) guided walking tour around Belgrade which lasted 3 hours. I, personally, am not a guided tour kinda person where they overload you with 1500 years of the cities history but some are.  The tour started off somewhat unusual as we were all given a shot of RAKIA, the local plum liquer, that can be lethal. Nothing like a shot at 11 am. The walk was really nice and enjoyed the Belgrade Fortress overlooking the Danube River. 3 nights in Belgrade and then flying to Split, Croatia for hopefully fun n sun.

Next day I enjoyed my favorite day of each place I visit. It usually involves walking around, obseving and watching everyday life of the country I am visiting. Revisited the Belgrade Fortress and had so much better time than on the tour. Saw more and had a chance to explore. The Fortress has the Sava River and Danube River on two sides. The rivers converge at one point.

October 22 -30, 2014.   (CROATIA,  Split)

Flew into Split from Belgrade on cheap flight as I seem to be getting a little lazier as my journey begins winding down. ( 3 weeks left) Croatia is to be the "vacation" part of my journey which I always try to include on every trip. I have been to Dubrovnik before but my first time here. I am staying in Split 5 nights and Hvar Town for 4 nights then to Zagreb for one night. The city is beautiful and combined with all the sailboats on the Adriatic Sea it is that much more picturesque. Hiked to the park which overlooks the city and got a "birdseye" view of the city and harbor. Breathtaking is best word to describe. Weather has been amazing.

October 25, 2014.   (BOSNIA, Mostar (visiting famous Stari Most bridge)

Up at 4:30 am to catch the 6 am and 4 hour bus to Mostar. The road was high in the mountains and while I wanted to sleep, could not keep from watching the winding roads with the 1000 foot drops. The bridge was impressive and enjoyed the "old town".

October 26, 2014.   (CROATIA,  Krka National Park)

Krka National Park is situated along the Krka River in southern Croatia. It's known for a series of 7 waterfalls. In the south, Skradinski Buk waterfall is flanked by traditional watermills. To the north, a nature trail passes another striking cascade, Roški Slap, and the Krka Monastery, built above ancient Roman catacombs. Visovac Island is home to the 15th-century Franciscan Monastery of Our Lady of Mercy. ― Google

October 27, 2014. (Hvar Town and Fortress)

I took the short ferry ride to Hvar to spend 2 nights to see the sights and visit the Fortress which is well preserved and overlooks the town.

November 1, 2014.   (SLOVENIA, Ljubljana and Bled Lake)

Spent 2 nights in Ljubljana. Beautiful Old Town with Castle high above the city. Did a day trip to Bled Lake and really enjoyed it.

November 3 - 8th, 2014.   (AUSTRIA, Vienna)

Spent the 1st morning visiting the Hopsburg Palace, Vienna Opera House, Parliament and several other old beautiful building. 

That afternoon I realized that the Hostel was walking distance (20 minutes) to the Shonbrunn Palace. It was 4:00 pm so I only had 45 minutes of daylight left. (Gets dark at 4:45 pm, no daylight savings here). I made it in time to take some pics and climb the hill for beautiful view of the Palace and Vienna at sunset. Beautiful gardens everywhere but did not have enough time. Went back again the next day for 3 more hours. 

November 7, 2014.    (SLOVAKIA, Bratislava)

Left Vienna and went to Visit Baratislava, Slovakia which was only an hour by train from Vienna. The "old town" was very small. Like many places in Eastern Europe there was a castle perched above the city. 

CHAPTER 30.   JORDAN  (November 8th - November 15th)

November 8, 2014.   (JORDAN, Petra)

1 train, 2 flights and 2 buses and I arrived at PETRA, one of and LAST of the 7 Wonders of the World for me to visit. I arrived at Amman Airport at 4 am and after paying the $56 Visa fee, waited until 5 am for the cheap bus shuttle to Abdali bus station. That is where the Jett Bus to Petra was to depart at 6:30 am. Of course, that's not what happened. EVERYONE told me we stopped at Abdali bus station but no one told thebus driver. Lol  ended up at another bus station and had to take $10 taxi to catch the bus to Petra. PLUS, since I was visiting Petra from the airport I had my 15 pound backpack to carry for the 5 hours I hiked around the ruins which were spread out. The climb to the viewpoint overlooking the Monastery was 914 steps. No sleep in 36 hours, 15 pound backpack and already walked 1 hour BEFORE climbing the steps. Just part of the "backpacking" job description. Lol A luggage storage would have been nice. Lol  

The "Treasury" and "Monastery" were my favorites and quite impressive. No doubt why it is considered one of the modern 7 Wonders of the World". 

Wikipedia

Petra (Arabic: البتراء, Al-Batrāʾ; Ancient Greek: Πέτρα) is a historicaland archaeological city in the southern Jordanian governorate of Ma'an that is famous for its rock-cut architecture and water conduit system. Another name for Petra is the Rose City due to the color of the stone out of which it is carved.

Established possibly as early as 312 BC as the capital city of the Nabataeans,^[2] it is a symbol of Jordan, as well as Jordan's most-visited tourist attraction.^[3] It lies on the slope of Jebel al-Madhbah(identified by some as the biblical Mount Hor^[4]) in a basin among the mountains which form the eastern flank of Arabah (Wadi Araba), the large valley running from the Dead Sea to the Gulf of Aqaba. Petra has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985.

The site remained unknown to the Western world until 1812, when it was introduced by Swiss explorer Johann Ludwig Burckhardt. It was described as "a rose-red city half as old as time" in a Newdigate Prize-winning poem by John William Burgon. UNESCO has described it as "one of the most precious cultural properties of man's cultural heritage".^[5] See: UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage Lists. Petra was chosen by the Smithsonian Magazine as one of the "28 Places to See Before You Die".^[6]

SECTION 8. (2013 TRAVELS)

 

CHAPTER 20.   (VICTORIA FALLS & BIG TRUCK SAFARI)  December 26, 2010 - 

VICTORIA FALLS

                         

 December 26-27th, 2012  (Johannesburg, South, Livingston, Zambia)

Arrived in Johannesburg around 5:45 pm after a 15.5 hr. direct flight from Atlanta. Either the longest direct flight or tied for it in the world. I got South African money (Rand), collected my bags and called the Shoestring Airport Lodge to pick me up. I am only 1.5 miles from the airport which is convenient since I fly to Livingston, Zambia tomorrow to visit Victoria Falls. I will stay there until Jan. 4th and then go with African Trails on a 21 day Overland Truck Safari. Not sure how camping for that long will sit with me.  Victoria Falls below on flight to Livingston, Zambia.

December 28, 2012 

 

Still have days and nights a little mixed up. Tried booking the trip to Livingston Island where you can swim in the "Devils Armchair" right at the edge of the falls. It is booked solid through the next few days but finally got a reservation on New Years Day. Great way to start out the year. The Zambezi River is rising so the Island will be closed soon. Nothing cheap here. $75 for the 1.5 hr visit but definitely on my "bucket list".  

December 29, 2012 (Victoria Falls,  Zambia side)

I went to the Livingstone Fall Heritage Site today to get my first view of Victoria Falls from the Zambian side. It was spectacular. Encountered a lot of baboons upon entering the park. I spent about 1.5 hrs viewing and hiking around the falls and then walked to the bridge to Zimbabwae. I walked to the middle of the bridge and watched the bungee jumping. I had my excitement of that when in New Zealand so saved my money. First picture is Picture of a Picture. Wish I had taken this.

December 30, 2012.  (Victoria Falls,  Zimbabwae side)

 Checked in with Absolute Africa at Shoestrings Hostel and then went to view the Falls from the Zimbabwae side which gives a better overall view and much wetter view. I got pretty wet but still great to see both side and also from the air on my Microlight flight. When I first arrived at the park two monkey can running at my feet and I kept having to shoo them away. Seemed like they want to either bite me or climb on me. Rest of the monkey were well behaved and have some great video of baby monkeys playing. Will post when I have time and faster internet.

January 1, 2013.  (ZAMBIA,  Devil's Pool)

I went to Livingstone Island on a $70 tour for breakfast and to swim to the edge of Victoria Falls, the Devil's Pool.  I th ook the free shuttle to the Livingstone Hotel and upon arrival I realized I had left my money and camera. I was the only one on the shuttle so the driver agreed to take me back to the hostel and again to the Hotel. I made it back in time to catch the boat to the very small Livingstone Island near the edge of the Falls. We had to SWIM in the rapids to get to the staging point, a big rock only feet from the Falls. The current is very strong and only strong swimmers are allowed. They have one guide near the Falls in case some one is not a strong enough swimmer to handle the rapids.   

The guide did a back flip first into the pool. I jumped 3rd and quickly was looking for a rock to hold on to. The current is not as strong there but still strong enough to feel it pushing you towards the edge. After a while and some pictures, they threw a rope to us so we could pull ourselves back to safety. 

January 2, 2013.   (ULTRALIGHT FLIGHT OVER VICTORIA FALLS)

Up early at 6 am to get ready for my 7 am Ultralight flight over Victoria Falls. I am going today because my December 31st flight was canceled due to rain. Unfortunately there was a $22 price increase on January 1st. The flight was amazing and provided great views of the Falls. The flight was only 15 minutes but seemed much longer. I was surprised that only a single lap seatbelt was keeping me from falling out. Well there also was my "death grip " on side of the seat. The flight was $170 plus $22 for the pictures from the camera attached to the wing. (2) splurges in the first 2 days of 2013 but both ADVENTURES OF A LIFETIME.

January 3, 2013. (ZAMBIA, Livingstone)

Will be leaving Fawlty Towers Hostel and Livingstone, Zambia at 10 am on the free shuttle to the Park. From there it is a short walk to the Zambia/Zimbabwae bridge where the bungee jumping is located and where I will enter Zimbabwae. Either a 20 minute walk or short taxi ride depending on the price and I will be in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwae. I will be meeting Absolute Africa overland truck safari at Shoestring Backpackers where I will spend the night and meet all the people already on the tour. No more soft bed for the next 21 days. Not really much of a camper but will endure it due the cost and accessibility one gets by camping in the parks in Botswana and Namibia. Will not have much internet access for the next 21 days. It is going to be a very special trip I believe with lots of animal sightings.   

Little sad saying bye to Fawlty Towers as backpackers get a feeling of home when we stay in one place for a while.

BIG TRUCK SAFARI. (Zimbabwae, Botswana, Namibia and South Africa) 

(Overall view) Big Truck Safari

Putting up and down tents everyday is a pain but everyone helps. Breakfast is not great for me because it is usually cereal, especially if we are in a hurry. Sometimes beans and toast but that is an Aussie/English thing. You get close and have the ability to camp in the National Parks which is why we do these type of tours. $40-$50 a day is normally the cost for the cheapest Africa tours and involves transport, tents, and 2 meals a day. Most of these tours, at least in Africa, are UK based and lot of the people on here are from England or Australia. I had never heard of them before I researched my trip. Trips range anywhere from 7 days to 73 days depending on what you want to see and how many countries you want to visit. On this trip there are 2 Aussies (Simone and Amy), 1 guy from Finland (Heinrich), 1 guy from Canada (Gary), the driver from Zimababwae (JB), Mary and myself (US) and 4 girls and 1 guy from England. (Rose, Aly -guide-, Laura, Sarah, and David). So far it has been fun. Not exactly as I like to travel because there is no ability to change plans when u find somewhere u want to stay but good way to travel inexpensively in Africa.

January 4, 2013   (Absolute Africa truck safari begins)

We climbed inside the HUGE yellow truck that will be our transport for the next 21 days at 11am. Fortunately, the first day only involves about 3 hrs on the road to the campsite. We leave Zimbabwae and enter Botswana which is know for Chobe National Park and the Okavango Delta. We arrived at the campsite after buying groceries and then set up our individual tents. Since there are only 14 on this truck there is no need to share tents. We had planned on doing a sunset river cruise on the Chobe River to see hippos and crocodiles but it was raining so it was canceled.

January 5, 2013  (BOTSWANA, Chobe National Park)

We left Chobe National Park at 6 am and drove until 3 pm nonstop except for 30 minute lunch break at Maun, the staging point for the Okavango Delta. Since the truck is not crowded we were able to stretch out and catch a few winks. Seat belts are necessary because if the truck hits a large bump in the road it could bounce you into the ceiling. I actually saw one of the girls bounce so high that she almost hit the ceiling. Aly is our guide and JB is the truck driver. Everyone on this trip is from England except David who is Canadian, Amy who is Aussie and myself. Most overland truck companies are British for some reason. It is one of the cheapest ways to travel in Africa. Our campsite here for the next 4 days is at Sedia Hotel and we have access to the pool, bar and restaurant. 

January 5-8th  (Botswana and Okavango Delta)

Everyone on the tour is doing a 2 night/ 3 day camping trip to the Okavango Delta in dugout canoes except for Amy and myself. Amy has been sick and the trip did not appeal to me at all especially since we were not going to see many animals on the trip. The Delta is very similar to our marshes in southern LA. Plus it is the rainy season and being cold and wet with no bathrooms and eating cold food the entire time did not seem like much fun. Decided to make a vacation out of this time and Amy and I laid by the pool and took advantage of the restaurant and bar. 

I hope to be able to take a 45 minute plane ride ($90) over the Delta to take pictures and get an overall view but it is the slow season and no groups flying now and 1 person on the plane is $450. Will keep trying.   

January 10, 2013.   (NAMIBIA, largest meteorite in world)

Arrived at Hopa Farm in northern Namibia and camped next to the LARGEST METEORITE in the world. As we set up our tents around the meteorite tens of thousands of ants appeared and made it very difficult for us. After our tents were put up they seemed to go back to their business in the ground. For some reason I expected a larger meteorite but googled it and it is the largest.

The Hoba meteorite is named after the farm on which it's found.  It was discovered to be 82% iron and 16% nickel after excavation. That makes it a rarity as only about 6% of are primarily iron. Most impressively, it weighs around 50 tons, making it the biggest on the planet that is intact.

January 11, 2013. (NAMIBIA,  Etosha National Park,  Day 1)

Meteorite to Etosha Camp. Very nice campsite at Lodge with restaurant/bar and great restroom/shower facilities. We did a game drive in the Big Yellow Truck from 3 pm till 7 pm and did not see any lions but lots of giraffes, flamingos and impala. Try again early in the morning. 

January 12, 2013 (NAMIBIA,  Etosha National Park,  Day 2)

Left at 6:30 am for 4 hour game drive. Saw LOTS of lions including a pride of 8 lioness and 1 male lion next to the road. Looks as though they were looking to make a kill but it never happened as the baby antelope was too fast and too far away to make a try. Saw a black rhino in the far distance but too far away to get a good shot with my camera. (15X) More giraffes and then camped at nice lodge with pool and watering hole to see wildlife , if possible. Did not see any. Rose, Simone and Amy at the pool again. 

Day trip to visit the Himba Tribe in Namibia. The women only bathe once in their life, at birth. The rest of the time they use a small tepee fire to cause them to sweat which is their bathing. This is due to scarcity of water. The women also cover their bodies and hair in a red clay. Another interesting fact is men are allowed to have as many wives as they want if they can afford the dowry to the father. Each wife ,use have their own Hut next to each other. The husband must spend a night with each wife in order and not skip a Hut. Lol

January 13, 2013. (NAMIBIA,  Etosha to Cheetah Park)

Morning game drive after spending night at another lodge. Finally saw elephants in the distance and MORE giraffes. Also, saw more lions, ostriches and antelopes. Stopped and picked up lunch for 2 days at the supermarket. Set up camp at Cheetah Park which is owned by man and his 2 sons. They run a refuge for wild cheetah who have became a nusiance to the ranchers. There are 12 wild cheetahs and 4 domesticated cheetah which we visited and petted. Afterwards we went to feed the wild cheetah donkey meat. The guide would toss the meat high in the air and they would leap up to snatch it. We were in the back of the truck while they were being feed but it did not seem really safe there. The brothers were quite entertaining.

January 15, 2013

Left the Cheetah Farm and started our drive towards Swakopmund. On the way we stopped by the Cape Cross Seal Colony which is located on the Atlantic border of Namibia. We were only there about 30 minutes as the smell is horrible. There are between 100,000 and 200,000 seals there depending on the time of year. Sadly, many of the seal pups were dead for a variety of reasons. It is estimated about 27% of the seal pups die of natural causes. 

January 15-18th (NAMIBIA,  Swakopmund)

A welcome break on our safari (journey) in the German town of Swakopmund. Namibia was first claimed by Bismarck and the Germans in the 1890's. There are still many Germans living in Namibia and Swakopmund has been called more German than Germany. The town has between 25,000 and 30,000 residents with a large contingency of Germans visiting during the German winter to take advantage of the more favorable weather in Namibia's summer.There is a really nice beach, though the water is cold, and Swakopmund has been promoted to one of the adventure and adrenalin capitals of Africa along with Cape Town. Lots of sky diving, sand boarding on the sand dunes, quad biking (4-wheelers) and go karting on fast track. 4 of the girls went sky diving the 1st day and had quite a time. Sand boarding was the choice of the day on the 2nd day. I am enjoying my "down time" and ability to use free internet to catch up with uploading of pictures and blogging. 

January 18, 2013. (NAMIBIA,  Sossusvlei Sand Dunes)

Camped at Sesriem, gateway to the sand dunes. After putting up the tents we went the 6 miles to the sand pan that is located between several large sand dunes up to 960 feet tall (96 stories). About once every 3 years the sand pan is flooded and creates a beautiful lake in the midst of the sand dunes. The sand dunes are Namibia's #1 tourist attraction and cover 32,000 square kilometers (20,000 square miles). The dunes reach as high as 325 meters (1000 feet). It was amazing to stand in the middle of the salt pan while surrounded by the sand dunes.

Afterwards we went to Dune 45 (called that because it is 45 kilometers from campsite) and climbed to the top of it and watched the sunset.    

January 19, 2013. (NAMIBIA,  Fish River Canyon)

The Fish River Canyon is supposedly the 2nd largest canyon in the world at 160 km (100 miles) long and a depth up to 550 meters ( 1700 feet ) deep. Nice but not the Grand Canyon. We watched until sunset. 

January 20, 2013. (Orange River)

After Fish River we drove to a beautiful campsite on the Orange River at the border of Namibia and South Africa. We did a 2.5 hr canoe trip down the river. It was very beautiful and we saw several fish eagles. About half way down the river we stopped on a sandbar for a swim.

January 23, 2013 (SOUTH AFRICA,  Stellenbosch)

Nearing the end of the guided overland bus tour. Arrived in Stellenbosch, South Africa and have finished our camping portion of the trip. Back in the dorm. Stellenbosch is wine country and at this time is the Wine Festival. Not sure if that is good thing or not. 2 nights and then to Cape Town for our last day on the tour with a final dinner with all the tour members.

January 25, 2013. (SOUTH AFRICA,  Capetown)

Will leave Stellenbosch this morning for the short 20-30 minute drive to Cape Town, South Africa. Very excited about viewing Table Mountain up close and hiking to the top. First picture is Table Mountain from the Ashanti Hostel and second is the back of Table Mountain as we were approaching Cape Town. End of a GREAT EXPERIENCE ON A BIG TRUCK.

CHAPTER 21.  SOUTH AFRICA (January 25th - February  20th)

January 25, 2913.  Capetown 

January 27, 2013  (Gansbaai,  Great White Shark Cage Diving)

I have always wanted to be face to face (me in a cage) with a Great White Shark. This morning I was able to fulfill that dream. We left Cape Town at 5:20 am for the 2 hr drive to Gansbaai where "Shark Alley" would be our cage diving spot. There were only 13 (Lucky 13) of us and usually there are at least 20 people per trip. Smaller groups allow more time in the freezing water. I was curious why the water was so cold in South Africa's summer. I was told that when it is summer in the Southern Hemisphere  the ice in Antarctica melts and there is a stream of the  chilly water straight to South Africa. We wore wet suits but still very cold. When we first anchored, a great white shark about 12-13 ft. started circling the boat. Our guide said that many times the sharks will leave after the cage is lowered in the water.

I quickly put on my wet suit as many were debating when to go in the cage. I was the first one in and then 4 others joined me. The Great White stayed with us for our 40 "cold" minutes in the cage. One of the deck hands kept throwing out a large fish head on a hook with a rope near the cage. The shark was interested in it but not really intent on eating it. The Great White would swim right in front of us and on two occasions it turned its head and looked directly at me at a distance no more than 1 foot away. He had "dead eyes" and I was very thankful for the cage.  We would sit on a bar waist deep in the cage until a Great White was spotted near us and then told to submerge and look for the shark.

2 weeks later in Johannesburg,  another backpacker asked if I had seen the recent YouTube video of a Great White getting inside a cage at Gansbaai.  After watching the video which was only days after my experience,  I was very thankful of my safer encounter. Luckily no one was hurt. (Google shark gets in cage, has happened more than once). 

The first picture, unfortunately, is not mine. Maybe one day. 

I did not rent an underwater camera because I thought the videographer would have great footage but he didn't. But did get some nice pictures from top of the boat. 

January 28, 2013   (Capetown,  Hiking Table Mountain and Devil's Peak)

"The first step in the journey is to lose your way."  Galway Kinnel

 The plan was simple, catch a taxi to base of Table Mountain, hike up the gorge trail to top of Table Mountain (2hrs) and then cable car down and taxi back to Amber Tree.

But the "travel gods" have a sense of humor. I asked directions at the hostel because I do have a tendency to not pay close attention to signs and other paths while walking. All around the world I have ended up on animal paths which no human should be walking because they always seemed to get very narrow and very high.  

I found the path easily but while walking, enjoying the beauty of the scenery and while taking pictures I seem to have missed the turnoff and ended up at Devil's Peak. By the time I realized that I was a long way from my intended destination I decided to go ahead and finish this climb. I had gotten about 250 feet from the summit when I was no longer shielded by the 40-60 mph winds. These were not gusts , these were constant. I actually got pushed to the ground and got behind a rock and had to put on my fleece jacket. That is when I said close enough and headed back to find the original path.

Located it with no trouble but still had ANOTHER 2 hrs to hike in addition to the 2 hrs I had just completed. The scenery was spectacular but by no means easy. Straight up most of the time. Once on top I ate lunch and then went to the cable car. The line was long and when I found out it was $10 to go down, started walking by down the gorge. Walking down is always more painful because it is constantly pounding your knees. Finally made it and then tried to walk back the 1.5 hr to the hostel. I gave up at 45 minutes and hailed a taxi, but it only cost me $3 instead of the $6. I always say I have more time than money. 

Fantastic day.

February 3, 2013.  (Capetown,  Hiking to Chapman's Peak from Hout Bay)

Purchased a hop on hop off ticket to visit the coast area around Cape Town. The bus is a double decker and you can hop on and hop off at any of the listed sights. I only got off at The Wharf at Hout Bay and then walked up to Chapman's Peak. It took about 3 hours in total from The Wharf but the hike up was not very hard. Lot of people driving it and hiking up. It has 114 curves from the bottom to the top. The views were amazing. Houk Bay is also famous for the surfing. During the surfing competition the waves get over 60 feet high. Add that to absolutely freezing water and few Great White Sharks,  I will not add this to my bucket list.

After finishing the hike to Chapman's Peak I got back on the hop on hop off tour bus that traveled along the coast around Cape Town to Hout Bay, Camps Bay through Clifton and back to Cape Town. 

February 4-7th, 2013.  (Baz bus Capetown to Knysna)

Leave beautiful Cape Town on the hop off hop on Baz Bus which goes from Cape Town to Johannesburg via the Garden Route, Wild Coast and Drakensberg Mountains. I will be on this route for 14 days and will decide where to head after I arrive in Jo'burg.

Knysna is a nice city of 50,000 perched on a lagoon and surrounded by forests. Nothing in particular I wanted to do here, just a nice stop along the route to chill for few days and then get to my more important stops of Cintsa, Coffe Bay and the Drakensberg Mountains. Will be here for 4 days but mostly chilling as I have done most activities they have here so nothing special enough to get my money.

February 7, 2013  (Port Elizabeth )

Leave at 4:30 pm and take the Baz Bus for about 5.5 hrs to Port Elizabeth with several stops along the way dropping off backpackers along the coast. Port Elizabeth is one of the Mandatory stops along the route to Jo'burg. One night here and leave at 6:30 am to go to Cintsa for 3 days on the beach.

February 7-10th. (Cintsa)

Cintsa is a beautiful but small beach community but not much to do except enjoy life. There is surfing and kayaking. There was free wine with afternoon activities such as volleyball.

2/10-2/13.  (Bulungula)

Took the Baz Bus to Mthatha to catch the shuttle for the 2.5 hr bumpy road to the tribal lodge of Bulungula. Upon arriving at the Shell station we were pointed to small pickup truck with a cab on the back. 8 of us climbed into that small truck and our patience was tested over the next 2.5 hrs on some of the bumpiest roads I have ever encountered.

The lodge itself was in a beautiful location on a hill overlooking a river that runs into the oceans at least until high tide when the ocean runs into the river. The lodge runs on solar power completely and we even had internet. The bungalows were either private or dorms. We had 8 beds in our dorm. The toilets were concrete and of the outhouse variety, but 6 stalls , no wait. The shower were unique and involved sticking toilet paper up a metal tube, pouring parafin in the tube and lighting it. The fire would last 6-8 minutes and that is how long u would have warm water.

February 13, 2013.  (Durban)

Spent the night in Durban on a mandatory Baz Bus stop. Durban is one of the largest cities in South Africa with a large Indian population. Beautiful beaches and the largest aquarium in Africa, which I took advantage of. The aquarium that housed all of the sea animals was built inside a huge ship that now on land and had been refitted to house the aquarium. The outside venues included stadium pools for dolphin shows and seal shows. There were also other exhibits such as the penguins.

2/14-2/13.  (Drakensberg Mountains) and (LESOTHO)

My most anticipated stop on the route from Cape Town to Johannesburg, the Drakensberg Mountains. Our home for these 3 nights was the highly recommended Amphitheatre Lodge. It was beautiful but not in the mountains but at the base instead. The first tour involved going to the small but highest country in the world, Lesotho. It is the highest country because its lowest elevation is 1000 meters (3200 feet). It is completely surrounded by South Africa. We drove up to the border, got our visa stamp and headed to a local school to meet the teachers and children. Afterwards we hiked for 1.5 hours up to view the back of the Amphitheatre Mountain and surrounding valleys. Then we hiked down to a local village where we drank the local beer that had been fermented for 5 days. They place a red flag outside the hut to let others know it is ready. Then we visited a local medicine man and had some local food. Enjoyable day.

The next tour involved hiking to the highest waterfall in Africa , the Tugela Falls which fall for 3100 feet, claimed to be second highest in the world. We began our day of hiking in the rain and it rain, not hard but constant, for the entire 5 hrs. We finally made it to our summit of 3121 meters or about 10,000 feet and were able to stand near the top of the falls. Unfortunately we were not able to see but a few hundred feet of the falls. The highlight or lowlight of the trip was when we had to climb down 2 steel ladders in the rain on the edge of a cliff. The first one was about 25 feet and while scary, it was not too imposing. However, the second one was 75 feet long on the side of a very steep cliff. The only other way to get back down was to go all the way back by yourself. Not really sure how I did it but concentrated on the moment and making sure my feet and hands were secure at all times. Did I mention it was still raining.  

Feb. 17-20th.   (Johannesburg)

Dropped of by Baz Bus at Mbizi Lodge on outskirts of Johannesburg (best place to be) for 3 nights of nothing and wait for my flight to Uganda on the 20th. Nice place. Caught up on movies and had Chinese food for lunch and dinner for each meal. Enjoyed it, it was close and cheap. Was only one in hostel for the 2nd night but 2 Argentinians, a couple of Swiss and 3 Germans showed up for the last night which always makes it more fun. 

CHAPTER 22.   UGANDA, RWANDA & MOZAMBIQUE   February 20 - April 3rd

2/20/13.  (Entebbe)

4 Hr. flight from Johannesburg to Entebbe, Uganda on South African Airways. Paid the $50 Visa fee (ouch) and went outside to look for the taxi that the Entebbe Backpackers had agreed to send. 40 minutes later he showed up. (T.I.A.) THIS IS AFRICA, an almost daily saying. I arrived at the hostel and checked in at 8:05 pm. I note this only because the kitchen closed at 8 pm so no dinner for me. I had planned to stay for 2 nights but wasn't feeling the vibe.  

Feb. 21st and 22nd.   (Kampala)

Caught a minibus from the car park for the 45 minute ride to Kampala. Crammed into a minivan with 12 other people. Kampala has over 1.5 million people and is built on 7 hills. It was very beautiful while driving through the city but mostly people all of the money resides on the hills and the lesser fortunate are in the lower lands.

Upon being dropped of by the minivan, a motorcycle taxi (boda boda) quickly asked me where I needed to go. He asked for 10,000 Uganda shillings and we settled at 7000. He asked a few people where it was and I knew I had chosen too quickly. At an intersection a traffic policeman stopped all traffic but my driver decided to take a quick left and pulled out right in front of an army convoy. Needless to say the traffic police were not happy and quickly caught up with us, impounded the motorcycle and detained the young driver.....and told me to find another ride. Luckily the person next to me said he would take me to Red Chilli Hideaway and he knew where it was. We settled on 5000 Uganda shillings. I made it without further incident and since I did not have to pay the first driver, save 2000 shillings in the process and had a story to tell. 

Really nice hostel. Staying in an 8 bed dorm but nice group mostly of Canadian and Australia girls. I booked the Big 5 tour to Murchison Falls which includes a game drive in the most popular national park, a game cruise and a walking safari along with a hike up to top of Murchison Falls. Also, includes a visit to the Rhino Sanctuary where they have 8 white rhinos. Everything I had planned to do in a week in 3 days instead and only $325 for everything except food.

The next day I took a boda boda (motorcycle taxi) to the Uganda Wildlife Authority to get my Gorilla Trekking Permit. ($500). As I counted out the (5) $100 bills for the payment she inspected them and asked if I had a different $100 bill since one was before 2006. I knew they had to be before 2006 and had asked the bank for bills only after 2006. My fault for not checking. I had more bills back in the hostel safe but that would require another trip. She looked at me and said she would make an exception. Yeah.

March 5, 2013 Gorilla Tracking is set. Expecting another life changing moment.   

February 23, 2013.   (Murchison Falls)

5 hr drive to Murchison Falls on the Nile River. We only hiked for about an hour to view the falls from the top. Tomorrow we will view the falls from a boat near the mouth of the waterfall. The force which the falls shoots through the 25 meter gorge has been called the most powerful in the world.

February 24, 2013.   (Safari at Murchison National Park)

Up early and arrived at ferry to cross the Nile River into the Murchison National Park. The entire game drive, as most, was done in our 4 x 4 vehicle. The Park is bordered by the Nile River. The roads are really good and normally you can see most of the animals. Unfortunately, we did not see any big cats but saw lots of elephants, giraffes, wart hogs, hippos, and cape buffalo. I saw lots of lions in Namibia so was not disappointed. The game drive lasted about 3 hrs. Then we returned back to Red Chilli Campgrounds where we were staying in Safari Tents which were large and really nice with proper beds. We could also see the Nile and surrounding area from our camp perched high on a hill.

(Nile River Cruise Safari)

After lunch at Red Chilli Camp we climbed back into the minibus and drove back to the Nile and boarded a cruise boat for our safari up the Nile River. We departed about 2 pm and cruised until almost 6 pm. We saw lots of hippos, elephants, crocodiles, and many varieties of birds. We cruised all the way to the mouth of the Murchison Falls and then returned.

February 25, 2013.   (Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary)

We packed up to leave and eat breakfast. We were supposed to leave at 8 am but 4 of the young Aussies enjoyed themselves until about 2 am so I heard. On the way back to Kampala we were to have lunch and stop by the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary. We stopped at the restaurant and ordered our food for later and then arrived at the Sanctuary about noon. Not my idea to choose the hottest part of day to walk through the bush in search of rhinos. We signed in and our guide led us to the area where some of the rhinos were located. At present there are 12 white rhinos (though not actually white, has something to do with their mouth). They have a baby rhino who is about 1 year old that I fortunately got a picture of nursing with his mother. To nurse the mother stands up and the baby lays down under her. One young 3 year old rhino is named Obama because its mother was from the US and its father was from Kenya. (Can't make this stuff up) Since it was the middle of the day the rhinos that we visited, 4 of them, were all resting under a big tree. We circled the tree to try and get good pictures and were fortunate enough that one stood to stretch his legs and then laid back down. Then after 30 minutes of whining by the baby, the mother got up so the baby could nurse. Enjoyable 1 hour but pricey for $40 but which was included in my Big 5 Tour price. The money is used to protect the rhinos and they are under 24 hr. surveillance to ensure no poachers get to them. They also use some of the funds for a children's school and for abused women. So while pricey, at least it is being used for good causes. We were only about 15 feet from them and given instructions to climb a tree if they got up quickly.    

February 27, 2013    (Post bus to Kabale and boda boda to Lake Bunyonyi)

6 am boda boda (motorcycle taxi) from Red Chilli hostel to Post office where I bought a ticket and climbed aboard the Post bus from Kampala to Kbale. The ticket was 25,000 Uganda Shillings ($10) for the 9 hr. ride. The Post bus delivers mail along with transporting passengers. There was only one official bathroom stop and 2 "short stops" in which we stopped on side of the road and looked for a bush. No lunch breaks but plenty of vendors storming the windows of the bus whenever we stopped. Meat on a stick, grilled corn on the cob, some type of pastry, and all varieties of drinks and fruits. When I got off the bus to go to the restroom I had to take both of my bags with me or else they would be gone when I returned.

After finally arriving at Bunyonyi Overland Resort, I asked and got a dorm room for $15 a night. Expensive but beautiful lake and location. Here for 3 nights and then to Kisoro, the staging ground for the mountain gorillas.

February 28, 2013.   (Lake Bunyonyi)

Lake Bunyonyi (Place of Many Little Birds) is Uganda's most beautiful lake and encircles 29 islands and its steep hillsides are intensively terraced. This morning I did the 1 hr hike up to Acadia Cottages for the best view of the lake. It was spectacular but not enough to sway me from moving from my $15 dorm to the $100 room at Acadia. We passed a school and all the children ran to the road waving and wanting to know our names and of course, tell us theirs. Good morning. Everything always seems better when I am hiking up high somewhere. The view down is always better than the view up.

March 1, 2013 (Last night at Lake Bunyonyi)

Last full day at Lake Bunyonyi. Yesterday 2 Overland Trucks pulled up with about 40 new people for the lodge. Definitely interrupted the peace and solitude of the lake. I called yesterday to Bwindi Backpackers Lodge where I wanted to stay for the gorilla visit to the Virunga Mountains. He is based in Kbale nearby and showed up at the lodge today to visit with me. I arranged to be picked up, driven the 3-4 hrs to the lodge, stay in a dorm with all meals included for 5 nights and then transported to Kigali, Rwanda for $150. I am thinking that is pretty good deal since most lodges charge $50-$100 a night around this location. Not only that he said there is a good chance we may see gorillas from the lodge since his property is on the edge of the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. He then agreed to upgrade me from the dorm to a private room. This lodge is very new and in its infant stage as a lodge. I was told about it from my new backpacker friend, Jake Stone, who I met in Kampala. Jake was one of the first ever people to stay there. Since the grounds are still being landscaped everyone gets to plant a tree there with a sign and if you return you stay for half price. (Only $5 a night instead of $10  lol)  Leave tomorrow at 3 pm. 

March 2, 2013.   (Bwindi Backpackers Lodge)

Picked up by Seith at around 4:30 pm for the short drive to Kabale to wait for the other person coming from Kigali. He ran late so we did not leave Kabale until about 6 pm. The drive took a little over 2 hrs on some really bad dirt roads. Since it was dark, we were not able to see what is amazing scenery high up in the moutains. Boht Eliot, Aussie, and I had booked dorms at only $10 a night but the dorms have not been completed at the Backpacker Lodge yet so we both were given a private single room each for the same price. Bwindi Backpackers only opened in November 2012 and we were the 58th and 59th people to stay there. There is no electricity, yet, but the power lines are in place and they are hopeful it will not be too long. My trekking day was not until the 5th  but Eliot was trekking the gorillas the next day. I went with the guide, Ivan, the next day to see the 15 acre garden Seith planted which has all varieties of trees, crops, pine seedlings, rabbits and natural swimming pool is in the works. We also visited a waterfall, cattle ranch and visited the village. It took about 3 hrs in all. Nice day. 

March 3, 2013.   (Church day in Uganda)

2 days before hiking to see the gorillas I had one of those great cultural experiences. Seith's dad asked me about 10:30 am if I would like to go to church with him. Caught by surprise but realizing what a unique experience this would be , I agreed. As we left Seith's dad told the cooks we would be back for lunch at 1:00 pm. We walked the 2 miles to the church and arrived just as they were beginning. We sat in the back but word quickly spread through the congregation that there was a muzunga (white traveler) in the church. The stares back towards me quickly became frequent. Small children who just roam the aisles quickly decided that my aisle was the one to frequent. Seith's dad (can't remember or pronounce his name) acted as a translator throughout the singing, testimony and sermon. While almost everyone speaks English most speak their own tribal language when possible. 

A special group had come from Kisoro to sing for the church. Afterwards, one of the singers gave her testimony to the atrocities that happened to her afer her husband died leaving her with a small child and how God stepped in to help her when she thought there was no hope. This testimony lasted a long time. Then more singing which lasted a long time. By this time a man moved next to me on the other side and told me he would translate for me. Now I have Stereo translation with both giving me the play by play of the singing and sermon which was to come. This was a Protestant Church but there seemed to be a two people addressing the church with one in a robe who gave the sermon. The sermon, even in Stereo, was very long. Seith's dad had given me a coin and paper to wrap it in to give as a tithe. I told him I would give me own money and thanked him. I wrapped it in the small piece of paper and followed him to the front of the church to give it to one of the 5 people in the front. He said we would give it to his wife who was one of the five. Then there was more singing. And then he said they would do a Thanksgiving for those who were blessed who would like to donate. I immediately walked up to the front and deposited some money into the Thanksgiving plate. Caught Seith's dad off guard because he quickly came up after me, made a donation and said that there would be a small prayer while we were up there to ask God to accept our offering. The sermon was a little unusual or maybe it was the translation. They talked a lot about witchcraft and people who were possessed by witchcraft. On a hike the previous day my guide showed me a tree which is used to make a brew to remove witchcraft from those possessed. I kept asking if he was talking about evil but he never would tie the two together completely. Some locals worship a particular tree but the practice is becoming less common.
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After the services, I was requested to meet with some of the congregation outside. They were very happy to meet me and all spoke English. Finally time to go back the 2 miles and eat lunch as I was starving. Of course, it was 3PM .  5 Hrs in church. Seems it ran a little long. The word of my church attendance quickly spread throughout the villages and on my many walks many would say hi and said they heard about me going to church. Seems I am the 1st Muzunga to every attend a church service in the area and the fact that I tithed and donated to Thanksgiving made it more impressive to them. Great experience.     

 March 5, 2013.   (Gorillas in the Mist)

The BIG DAY. GORILLA TREKKING IN UGANDA. SOMETHING I HAVE ALWAYS WANTED TO DO MY WHOLE LIFE.

Seith drove me the 10 minutes to the Nkuringo Ranger Station for the gorilla group briefing before the trekking began. Only 8 people are allowed to trek to each gorilla group per day and you are only allowed to spend one (1) hour observing the gorillas. The cost is $500 for the gorilla permit and includes the guides, trackers and 2 armed guards. The guards are to protect us in case the gorillas pose a threat but they only shoot up in the air if there is a problem. The Nkuringo Group of Gorillas are the most habituated group in Uganda we were told and this is the group VIP's come to see. I was fortunate enough that when I applied for my trekking the girl advised me to see them if I had a lot of leeway in my travel schedule. 

There are 14 gorillas in the NKuringo group which includes 4 Silverbacks. We began our trekking 14 Km away from the Ranger station since the gorillas had moved. We hiked down one steep valley and up another, then down a steep valley and up another. Then down one more time until we finally were told the gorillas had been located bythe trackers. Only 2 hrs of hiking and we had found the gorillas. I had heard that sometimes it can take much longer. We were told to drop our backpacks and walking sticks and just bring cameras and extra batteries if we had them. I dropped my bag and was the first person behind the guide as we approached where the gorillas had been spotted. After about a minute a ranger pulled back some brush and a gorilla was sitting there eating leaves. We walked around to another area where most of the gorilla group was situated. We first encountered a mother and her baby. The guide told us their names as each of the 14 gorillas has been named. The gorilla named Christmas is supposedly the most friendly. After about 15 minutes observing some of the mothers and babies, one of the Silverbacks made his way to us to give us an inspection. He walked almost right up to me and I was told to slowly move backwards and give him room. I had NO problem with that as they are one of the most powerful animals in the world. He posed for us several minutes. I even got a picture of a baby gorilla who stood up and walked on 2 feet right in front of us. Even the guide were excited to see it as it was the only time it happened. Not an everyday occurrence. During our time there we were fortunate enough to see 12 of the 14 gorillas including all 4 Silverbacks. One of the Silverbacks climbed up a small tree and perched on a limb while observing us. 

At about the 40 minute mark it started to rain, hard. Of course my raincoat, rain pants and b backpack cover were all inside my backpack which I left behind with the porters as we were told. I was completely soaked in 2 minutes and it was very cold but I kept taking pictures. It became dark and the pictures did not come out as great as I had hoped. One of the gorilla rules is NO FLASH photography. With only 8 minutes left in our hour and the rain pouring so hard you could not see far in front of you, we decided to end our incredible gorilla encounter and head back.

The Ranger said since the rain was so intense we would not be able to go back the same route but must walk back to the Ranger station , 14 km (about 9 miles) back. The guide hacked a new trail straight up a couple of valleys to avoid trails that were too muddy to climb.The rain quit about 2 pm and we stopped at the top of a large hill and had our packed lunch. I had 2 tomato sandwiches, bananas, watermelon and pineapple. Not sure what type of sandwich the English Couple who stayed at Clouds had but it looked pretty impressive. Of course, their accommodations at Clouds cost $750 PER PERSON PER NIGHT. That's right, $1500 a night for a couple to stay at Clouds. (Will post pictures of Clouds later) I was very happy to pay $10 per night and eat my tomato sandwiches and fruit, thank you very much. lol

Arrived back at the Ranger Station about 3:30 pm after 5 hrs intense hiking and 1 hr observing the gorillas. We "graduated" and received our gorilla certificates from the Ranger. 

Back to the Bwindi Backpackers to reflect on the experience. As I thought about it afterwards I can not believe how close we were to the gorillas. Gorillas have 98.4% of the same genes that humans have. They seem so human at time. It is really an experience that is impossible to describe but must be experienced yourself. GREAT DAY.    

March 6, 2013.   (Hiking around Bwindi Backpackers)

I did several hikes with my guide, Ivan, while staying at Bwindi Backpackers. The first was to visit the waterfall and 15 acre garden that Seith had purchased. Seith has planted all kinds of trees, including many fruit trees, throughout this garden. He also plants many crops to help make his lodge self sustainable. He also has nurseries of pine seedling to help the government replant where trees have been cut down and used for timber. It was a beautiful hike and after the waterfall we hiked up through a cattle ranch and into the village.

The second hike involved a boda boda (moto taxi) ride to the beginning of the hike to another mountain gorilla group. While we could only go so to the edge of the National Forest, it was a beautiful of the surrounding areas from on top of one of the mountains. Walked over 20 kilometers (13 miles) including all the way back to the lodge. Definitely getting back in shape. 

March 7, 2013.   (Sad day and didn't know it)

Woke up at 4 am which a strange feeling that something was wrong with someone in my family. Could not shake the feeling and was unable to go back to sleep. Having no internet for the past week was nice but also a little worrisome not being able to make sure everyone was okay. My only travel fear is being gone when needed at home.

I told Seith at breakfast that I needed to leave a couple of days early as I needed to check on my family. He said he could get me transport to Gensenyi, Rwanda on Saturday, 2 days from now. With that my only option, I told him to arrange it.

I would not find out until I arrived in Gensenyi upon going straight to the Internet Cafe that one of my best friends in the world and 1st couisin, Brad Passman, had died early on the morning of the 7th. With the 8-9 hours time difference I figured that I must have awoken a few hours within his death. He will be greatly missed  by all who knew him. Love you Brad, rest in peace.

March 10, 2013. (RWANDA, Kigali)

After a brief overnight stay in Gensenyi where I found out of Brad's passing, I quickly moved on to Kigali from where my flight back to Johannesburg would depart on the 20th. I checked into the Discover Rwanda Youth Hostel which was really nice. It is owned by a non-profit company and the proceeds go to the Rwanda Genocide Foundation. The next day I went to downtown Kigali on a moto taxi and went to the South Africa Airways office to see if I could change the departure date. They said a fee was involved and on many international flights, which this was, the fee is $250 which I could not afford to pay. She told me she could change the flight to the 13th for $44 US dollars. I said book it. Give me more time in Mozambique and really not much else to do in Rwanda but see Gorillas and I did that cheaper in Uganda.

March 12 and 13th, 2003. (Kigali, Rwanda to Johannesburg,  South Africa to Maputo,                                                  Mozambique) Crazy travel day.

I had to go to the Kigali Airport at 10 pm for my next day flight at 6 am to avoid the $20 taxi fee. Spent the night in the cafe until able to check in at 4 am. Departed at 6 am and arrived in Johannesburg at 11 am after a brief stopover in Burundi. Caught the Gautrain (airport train to city) to Park Station where I was to connect with a 6 pm train to Mozambique border. Had 5 hrs to kill before boarding the train at 5 pm and luckily found a KFC where I could eat and play computer games. At 4:45 pm I purchased KFC for the train ride which would last 12 hours. Hopefully will get sleep on the train. I arrived as told at 5 pm at the terminal gate. There were already about 100  people in line with HUGE bags. They obviously had come here to do their shopping for a month or so. Seat are no reserved so grab the first seat you can. I was lucky to find a window seat and had no one seating next to me for half of the ride to the border. But not able to sleep and was miserable for the entire time.Arrived at 7 am and took a minibus to the Mozambique border and was shocked to found out the Visa fee was $82. Lonely Planet mentioned visa fees of $25-$70 but that all border visas were $25. Not true so it seems as he pointed out the fee when I mentioned that. But then I noticed if you pay it in Meticals (currency in Mozambique) that the currency conversion amount to $70 US. So I went to ATM and got local currency which I was going to do anyway and saved $12 in the process. Small victory. Then a 2 hour minibus ride to Maputo (1 million population). I was supposed to call the Fatima Backpackers to have them pick me up at the end of the minibus ride. Unfortunately I was not aware that Mozambique's official language is PORTUGUESE, my nemesis in Brazil. Finally an English speaking taxi driver said he would take me there for $12. Tired after not sleeping for 72 hrs and in not a very nice part of town, I reluctantly agreed. Nice hostel.

March 15- 22nd, 2013.  (MOZAMBIQUE,  Tofu)

I had planned on staying two nights in Maputo and then going to Tofu but then a group of 50 architects on holiday from South Africa arrived at the hostel. Quickly realized there would be little rest here. Asked if I could cancel my 2nd night and appy that to the shuttle/bus service to Tofu which is 7 hrs long. He said yes so up again early at 4:30 am for the 5 am departure to the bus station. Got a seat in the back of the bus on the last row and was surrounded by baggage. Luckily I visited the toilet right before we departed because our 1st toilet stop was 4.5 hrs later. A new personal best or worst, depending on your perspective, for me between bathroom breaks. In Central America you can always depend on at least a break every two hours. Finally arrived and then loaded into a minivan for last 30 minutes to the beach. We were dropped off at Fatima's in Tofu (same owner as Fatimas in Maputo) but though they were on the beach, they did not take Visa or have free internet. Decided to walk around and look as someone I met in Maputo told me about another place. I walked down the path and saw Liquid, a dive shop, my backpacker friend Bill had mentioned and I stopped there to find out about local accommodations. Cindy, one of the owners, asked if I was interested in diving and I said possibly. Told her what I was looking for in accommodations and price and she drove me to two great places. Mozambeats and Turtle Cove. Both had swimming pools, dorm beds for $11 but neither were on the beach. Turtle Cove's dorm only had two beds and the other was currently empty plus free wifi. Sold. Only 15 minute walk to the beach and I have a pool and free wifi. Easter is quickly approaching and may lose my spot then but will deal with that later.    

March 22-April 3rd (2013)   (Back in Johannesburg)

Decided to end my Mozambique journey early as I was getting tired of the beach, did not have enough funds to dive, and the food was really expensive. So back to Johannesburg to stay at one of my favorite hostels, Mbizi Backpackers, for the remainder of my trip. Mbizi is more like a home and usually there are only a few guests there. I can watch movies all day, eat inexpensive Chinese food, and do all the things that do not cost money. When traveling it is not always about having to do something. I have learned to live my life where I am. It is also great meeting the new travelers who have just arrived at the airport and whose journey is just beginning. I like that I can give those interested advice on places that I have recently been to.  

April 3, 2013

AN AMAZING JOURNEY ENDS TODAY as I fly out of Johannesburg, South Africa at 8:25 pm on a direct Delta flight to Atlanta that will last approximately 17 hrs. Getting up at 6 am this morning and a few glasses of wine with dinner on the flight will hopefully help me sleep for at least some of this time.  I arrive in New Orleans at 10:35 am and with any luck will be back hugging on my grandkids by Thursday or at least by Friday. While always sad to end a journey, I am really excited to see family and friends again. Though I will be confronted with the reality of losing my couisin, Brad, once again when I get to Natchez.

During this trip I visited South Africa, Zambia, Zimbabwae, Botswana, Namibia, Lesotho,  Uganda, Rwanda and Mozambique.

I swam in the "Devils Pool" at Victoria Falls, flew in an Ultralight over Victoria Falls, went on numerous safaris in Botswana, Namibia and Uganda, climbed to top of Table Mountain in Cape Town, went Great White Shark Cage Diving, saw Silverback Mountain Gorillas in Uganda and to the beautiful beaches of Mozambique. JUST AS IMPORTANT, I have met many wonderful people in each country, both natives and fellow travelers. 

I end this trip knowing that by everything I have seen and experienced, I will be a better person because of it. 

ANOTHER AMAZING JOURNEY BEGINS TOMORROW. 

CHAPTER 23.  PERU and GUATEMALA

(May 15-July 10th)

2 Group trips planned back to back for Peru starting May 15th and ending June 19th. Both trips involved hiking the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu. The 1st Group  included visiting and flying over the famous Nazca lines. The 2nd Group added biking down the "Death Road" in Bolivia. 

After Peru I flew to Guatemala where I spent the majority of my time enjoying beautiful Lake  Atitlan, my favorite place,  as I do one or twice every year. Then back home for a short visit to see the family.

CHAPTER 24.  COSTA RICA

(August 8-19th)

Another group trip but took my oldest son, Scott, to give him experience in guiding a group. Most of my Costa Rica trips include going from San Jose Airport directly to La Fortuna for 3 nights, then to Monteverde for zip lining for 2 nights and completing the trip in Manuel Antonio/Quepos for beach time.

CHAPTER 25.  BALTIC CRUISE (Denmark, Sweden, Estonia, St. Petersbug, Russia and Finland) and IRELAND

(August 27- October 4th)

BALTIC CRUISE 

IRELAND

(September 7-October 4th)

I have 2 Groups coming in back to back to see why I love Ireland. My 1st group will start in Dublin, visit Kilkenny, Killarney and then Doolin. Doolin is a very small village that is know for its traditional Irish music and great base to visit the Cliffs of Moher.  They fly home from Shannon where my 2nd group will be arriving. Later trips substitute Galway for Doolin as there is much more to see and do. But I do miss Doolin. My Group is also planning a day trip to Northern Ireland to visit the Giant's Causeway and several other sights.

CHAPTER 26.  GUATEMALA and MEXICO 

(November 14- December 31st)

Guatemala is always a good idea and my refuge when it starts getting cold elsewhere.  With their "eternal spring" weather there is no bad time to visit. Their rainy season is not that bad. This trip also coincides with my trip to Asia. I will fly from Cancun, Mexico to Thailand at beginning of 2014.

GUATEMALA

(November 14 - December 27th)

Back " home " in Guatemala. Enjoyed a few days in the colonial city of Antigua before my extended visit to San Pedro la Laguna on beautiful Lake Atitlan. 

MEXICO

(December 27 - December 31st)

Spent a couple of days in San Cristobal, Mexico after taking the bus from Lake Atitla, then on to Merida for last few days of 2013.