CHAPTER 10. CENTRAL AMERICA (Mayan Ruins)
Overview (June 9 - August 17th)
Leaving on June 9th for 10 days in Costa Rica with family including my son, Scott, daughter- in-law, Amber and the grandkids, Kade and Madison. This will be their first venture outside the U.S. After that I will fly to Guatemala and make a large circle starting in Guatemala, then southern Mexico, back into Northern Guatemala, Belize, Honduras, and El Salvador specifically to visit their respective Mayan Ruins. Then I will return to Guatemala, my favorite country, before flying home on August 18th.
June 9, 2010. (COSTA RICA, Flight and First Day in Costa Rica)
We left BR at 3 am to go to the airport in NO. Luckily my son,, Jon, agreed to take us to the airport. Our flight to San Jose, Costa Rica left at 6 am and after a 45 minute layover in Miami, arrived in San Jose at 11:30 am. Refusing to pay $25 for a cab to San Jose costs us an extra 1.5 hrs on the local bus. Due to improper planning by me mostly but that's part of backpacking. After getting on the local bus, we had about 4 hrs until we reached La Fortuna, No air conditioning on the bus but windows down, cool rain outside and beautiful mountain scenery made the trip enjoyable. Kids slept some as we were all exhausted. The budget hotel was only a couple of blocks from downtown La Fortuna in a quiet neighborhood. A double room with private bath and triple room with private bath for only $50 total for both rooms a night. After checking in we headed out for our fist real meal of the day. ( Whopper at Airport Burger King was $8 by itself which we declined)
Seeing the lava flow at Arenal Volcano was one of the sights we came to La Fortuna to see. We hired a minivan to take us to the best location to view the lava. The top of the mountain is best viewed at night and when there is rain. There was a slight drizzle when the van picked us up and drove the 15 miles to the viewing spot. There were other tour buses and vans but our guide took us to the best local spot which only had one other local van. We were rewarded with an hour of beautiful sights and sounds from the volcano. Red hot molten lava flowing down the mountain and the occasional rumbling of the volcanic gases releasing from the top. Back to the hotel at 8:30 pm and everyone exhausted.
We left BR at 3 am to go to the airport in NO. Luckily my son,, Jon, agreed to take us to the airport. Our flight to San Jose, Costa Rica left at 6 am and after a 45 minute layover in Miami, arrived in San Jose at 11:30 am. Refusing to pay $25 for a cab to San Jose costs us an extra 1.5 hrs on the local bus. Due to improper planning by me mostly but that's part of backpacking. After getting on the local bus, we had about 4 hrs until we reached La Fortuna, No air conditioning on the bus but windows down, cool rain outside and beautiful mountain scenery made the trip enjoyable. Kids slept some as we were all exhausted. The budget hotel was only a couple of blocks from downtown La Fortuna in a quiet neighborhood. A double room with private bath and triple room with private bath for only $50 total for both rooms a night. After checking in we headed out for our fist real meal of the day. ( Whopper at Airport Burger King was $8 by itself which we declined)
Seeing the lava flow at Arenal Volcano was one of the sights we came to La Fortuna to see. We hired a minivan to take us to the best location to view the lava. The top of the mountain is best viewed at night and when there is rain. There was a slight drizzle when the van picked us up and drove the 15 miles to the viewing spot. There were other tour buses and vans but our guide took us to the best local spot which only had one other local van. We were rewarded with an hour of beautiful sights and sounds from the volcano. Red hot molten lava flowing down the mountain and the occasional rumbling of the volcanic gases releasing from the top. Back to the hotel at 8:30 pm and everyone exhausted.
June 10, 2010. (COSTA RICA, La Fortuna Waterfall and Baldi Hot Springs)
The La Fortuna Waterfall is one of the highlights of the area at 70 meters (224 feet). We took a taxi, after a little negotiation, to the waterfall which was about 3 miles away. The hike from the entrance to the waterfall was pretty steep but had concrete steps and railings. Unfortunately the steep 20 minute downhill hike would turn into a steep 30 minute climb. lol The waterfall was spectacular and there were a few people swimming in the icy water. After a little reluctance, everyone finally took the plunge. I got everyone to agree to walk back from the waterfall to the hotel to save the $6 taxi fare and experience hiking. It took a little over an hour to walk back to the hotel and luckily it was all downhill. Wonderful experience, especially since it began to rain as we started back to the hotel and rained continuously for the entire hike. We, of course, forgot our rain gear and umbrellas but we laughed and enjoyed the experience. I have always heard that you can get only so wet. Not really sure about that saying now though.
After getting back to the hotel, we got dry and then made plans to go to Baldi Hot Springs to enjoy the 25 hot spring pools, numerous water slides and buffet. At $22 a person for the entire day plus a dinner buffet it seemed like a good way to end the day. If we had not forced the kids to leave they would have tried to spend the night there. The water slides were just too much fun.
For those who wonder why I post prices a lot, the reason is two-fold. First, to show that you can travel inexpensively and still have a great time and secondly, I plan on taking guided tours to various locations and want to give people an idea of the expenses.
The La Fortuna Waterfall is one of the highlights of the area at 70 meters (224 feet). We took a taxi, after a little negotiation, to the waterfall which was about 3 miles away. The hike from the entrance to the waterfall was pretty steep but had concrete steps and railings. Unfortunately the steep 20 minute downhill hike would turn into a steep 30 minute climb. lol The waterfall was spectacular and there were a few people swimming in the icy water. After a little reluctance, everyone finally took the plunge. I got everyone to agree to walk back from the waterfall to the hotel to save the $6 taxi fare and experience hiking. It took a little over an hour to walk back to the hotel and luckily it was all downhill. Wonderful experience, especially since it began to rain as we started back to the hotel and rained continuously for the entire hike. We, of course, forgot our rain gear and umbrellas but we laughed and enjoyed the experience. I have always heard that you can get only so wet. Not really sure about that saying now though.
After getting back to the hotel, we got dry and then made plans to go to Baldi Hot Springs to enjoy the 25 hot spring pools, numerous water slides and buffet. At $22 a person for the entire day plus a dinner buffet it seemed like a good way to end the day. If we had not forced the kids to leave they would have tried to spend the night there. The water slides were just too much fun.
For those who wonder why I post prices a lot, the reason is two-fold. First, to show that you can travel inexpensively and still have a great time and secondly, I plan on taking guided tours to various locations and want to give people an idea of the expenses.
June 11, 2010. (COSTA RICA, Whitewater rafting)
Today we went whitewater rafting. We had an amazing day and Madison got to "ride the bull" which meant ride on front of the raft through less treacherous rapids. The water was so cold but we were too busy paddling and hanging on for it to bother us much. About halfway through the rapids,, we stopped and the guides sliced up fresh pineapple and watermelon. Just what we needed and BEST PINEAPPLE EVER. Afterwards we stopped off for a great prepared late lunch at a restaurant which was included. Most "typical" meals include beef or chicken, rice and beans.. Tomorrow we are going by jeep-boat-jeep, which means a taxi to Lake Arenal, then a ferry (pontoon boat) across the lake and then picked up by another taxi on the other side. A total of 2.5 hrs. Somewhat better than the 7-8 hr local bus around the lake.
June 12, 2010. (COSTA RICA, Monteverde to Quepos)
We left Hotel Dorothy in La Fortuna for the jeep-boat-jeep ride to Monteverde. The ride really is a van-pontoon boat-van. The cost was $18 per person and only takes 2.5 hrs instead of the 8 hrs which the local bus takes to go around Lake Arenal. I have taken the local bus around before and the shorter version is much better even though more expensive. We are staying at the Vista Golfo and the kids love it because it has bunk beds, hammocks everywhere, many free computers with internet access and beautiful views of the Cloud Forest. Scott and Amber have a double bed with bathroom for $30 a night and me and the kids have a triple room with outside shared bathroom for $30 a night. With unlimited free coffee and free breakfast this is really a great deal. We go early in the morning to do the canopy zip line.
June 13, 2010. (COSTA RICA, Canopy Zipline)
After being canceled due to the lightning, we were finally able to enjoy the Canopy Zip Line at Selvatura Park in Monteverde. The Zip Line consists of 16 tree to tree stations over a total of 3 miles with some at heights of over 100 feet ABOVE the tree canopy. Crazy high. Scott has always had a fear of heights but managed well. Kade, on the other hand, had some serious knee knocking going on. Madison rode with a guide most of the time because she was too light. She did get to ride alone on a couple. Amber did well but like Scott kept commenting on how high they were. The Tarzan Swing was waiting for us at the end. Jumping off a very high platform and swinging out over the jungle canopy. Worth a trip to Costa Rica by itself.
June 14th and 15th, 2010. (COSTA RICA, Travel day)
The alarm was set for 3:30 am in order for us to catch the 3 hr local bus to Puntarenas and then switch to another local bus for 3 hrs to Quepos after a 30 minute layover. I woke up at 2:30 and could not get to sleep again and Scott had set his clock incorrectly and had everyone up at 3. Even with all the mass confusion of getting everything together and being unsure exactly what time it was, we made it to the bus in time. It was early, everyone was tired, the roads were rough and the bus stopped every 15 minutes for 3 hrs to pick up more people. It was GREAT. Around 5 am daylight was just beginning and you could finally see that this bus was traveling along a dirt and gravel road mere feet from very high drop offs in the mountains. While we were traveling downhill you couldn't help but wonder when the last time this bus had its brakes checked. lol
The bus was running late and we made the bus transfer with only moments to spare. If we had missed that bus we would have had to wait for 3 more hrs until the next bus to Quepos. But we made it. We got to Quepos at 11 am, grabbed lunch at a soda, kids swam in the Hostel pool, and then a quick siesta. Good but tiresome day.
The alarm was set for 3:30 am in order for us to catch the 3 hr local bus to Puntarenas and then switch to another local bus for 3 hrs to Quepos after a 30 minute layover. I woke up at 2:30 and could not get to sleep again and Scott had set his clock incorrectly and had everyone up at 3. Even with all the mass confusion of getting everything together and being unsure exactly what time it was, we made it to the bus in time. It was early, everyone was tired, the roads were rough and the bus stopped every 15 minutes for 3 hrs to pick up more people. It was GREAT. Around 5 am daylight was just beginning and you could finally see that this bus was traveling along a dirt and gravel road mere feet from very high drop offs in the mountains. While we were traveling downhill you couldn't help but wonder when the last time this bus had its brakes checked. lol
The bus was running late and we made the bus transfer with only moments to spare. If we had missed that bus we would have had to wait for 3 more hrs until the next bus to Quepos. But we made it. We got to Quepos at 11 am, grabbed lunch at a soda, kids swam in the Hostel pool, and then a quick siesta. Good but tiresome day.
7.5 hour bus ride $6 per person, life experience..
The next day was a beach day.
June 16, 2010. (COSTA RICA, Manuel Antonio National Park (monkeys, monkeys, monkeys)
We left early for the park to hopefully see the monkeys in action. We were not disappointed. We saw lots of monkeys, many within 1-2 feet. We also saw sloths, iguanas and a long non-poisonous snake slithering down our path. Unfortunately no one other than me brought a bathing suit, mostly due to the sunburn that we all encountered yesterday. The private beaches at the park were beautiful, uncrowded and very clean. The park provides several bathroom facilities, showers and drinking water throughout the park for only $10 per person with children under 12 free. If you come here pack a lunch, ice chest and plenty of sunscreen and make a complete day of it. The only injury of the day was when a monkey dislodged a 1.5 ft. long rotten tree branch and it fell on Madison's head. She is okay but let everyone know she was in pain. lol
We left early for the park to hopefully see the monkeys in action. We were not disappointed. We saw lots of monkeys, many within 1-2 feet. We also saw sloths, iguanas and a long non-poisonous snake slithering down our path. Unfortunately no one other than me brought a bathing suit, mostly due to the sunburn that we all encountered yesterday. The private beaches at the park were beautiful, uncrowded and very clean. The park provides several bathroom facilities, showers and drinking water throughout the park for only $10 per person with children under 12 free. If you come here pack a lunch, ice chest and plenty of sunscreen and make a complete day of it. The only injury of the day was when a monkey dislodged a 1.5 ft. long rotten tree branch and it fell on Madison's head. She is okay but let everyone know she was in pain. lol
UPDATE: No longer allowed to bring food in the National Park.
June 17, 2010. ( COSTA RICA, Alajuela)
Left Quepos at 10 am and had a long but beautiful 3.5 ride through the mountains to Alajuela. Alajuela is only 5 minutes from the International Airport and much nicer and closer than San Jose.
We arrived at the Hotel Mi Tierra in Alajuela shortly after 1pm. The hotel is great and has a pool. We got a room with 5 beds and bathroom for $65 and that includes breakfast and a taxi to the airport. Unfortunately we will be leaving at 5 am for the 5 minute taxi ride to the airport.
June 18, 2010. (GUATEMALA, Antigua)
Said goodbye to the family and flew to Guatemala City at 10 am. I will have to adapt to traveling alone quickly, but it will probably not take long as it is the norm. Not anything in Guatemala City that I wanted to see so I took a shuttle for $10 to Antigua. Only about a 45 minute drive if no traffic.
Antigua's setting is gorgeous, nestled between 3 volcanoes (Volcan Agua, Volcan Acatenango, and Volcan Fuego). The streets are cobblestones and the buildings that line the streets are multicolored. The town of 45,000 has a beautiful Parque Central (Central Park) which is the gathering place for both locals and visitors. The plaza's famous fountain was built in 1738. Across the street from the park is the Catedral de Santiago which was founded in 1542, damaged by earthquakes many times and only partially rebuilt between 1780 and 1820.
" I sought to see the amazing as normal, and the daily as unique, and in that swirling paradox, I found the joy of travel." Mary Poxon
" I sought to see the amazing as normal, and the daily as unique, and in that swirling paradox, I found the joy of travel." Mary Poxon
June 21, 2010. (GUATEMALA, Lake Atitlan)
Lake Atitlan is one of the most beautiful lakes in the world, if not the most beautiful. Lake Como in Italy has always been my favorite lake until now. While Lake Como has beautiful mountains, beautiful mansions, and beautiful villages, Lake Atitlan has volcanoes surrounding it. Apples and Oranges, I will consider it a tie. To see Lake Como see my Europe blog.
I just finished a 3 hr hike on a path that runs high on the mountains and follows the lake. An English girl and boy from the hostel went along with me. We picked up an unwanted guide along the way. The English girl spoke Spanish and told him we were not interested in a guide but that did not deter him. Luckily for us he came in real handy. The trail had been damaged by Storm Agatha and had washed out portions of the trail. There was one spot when the path was only large enough for one foot to fit on it and it was about a 30 foot fall if your foot slipped. Thinking back on it this was not a very smart move on our part to follow the trail when there was a serious chance of getting hurt. We made it to San Marcos about 3 hrs after our initial departure, quickly got lost looking for the boat to take us back, and finally made it back to the hostel after a 20 minute boat ride. I took over 260 pictures and will post them in about 4 days. The hostel will not allow us to download pictures on their computers.
Lake Atitlan is one of the most beautiful lakes in the world, if not the most beautiful. Lake Como in Italy has always been my favorite lake until now. While Lake Como has beautiful mountains, beautiful mansions, and beautiful villages, Lake Atitlan has volcanoes surrounding it. Apples and Oranges, I will consider it a tie. To see Lake Como see my Europe blog.
Lake Como, it seems to me, touches on the limit of permissibly picturesque, but Atitlan is Como with additional embellishments of several immense volcanoes. It really is too much of a good thing. Aldous Huxley
I just finished a 3 hr hike on a path that runs high on the mountains and follows the lake. An English girl and boy from the hostel went along with me. We picked up an unwanted guide along the way. The English girl spoke Spanish and told him we were not interested in a guide but that did not deter him. Luckily for us he came in real handy. The trail had been damaged by Storm Agatha and had washed out portions of the trail. There was one spot when the path was only large enough for one foot to fit on it and it was about a 30 foot fall if your foot slipped. Thinking back on it this was not a very smart move on our part to follow the trail when there was a serious chance of getting hurt. We made it to San Marcos about 3 hrs after our initial departure, quickly got lost looking for the boat to take us back, and finally made it back to the hostel after a 20 minute boat ride. I took over 260 pictures and will post them in about 4 days. The hostel will not allow us to download pictures on their computers.
June 22, 2010. (GUATEMALA, La Iguana Perdida Hostel, Lake Atitlan)
Great hiking yesterday from Santa Cruz to San Marcos and then straight up the mountain that afternoon to the village. Today it will be watching soccer with the rest of the world and relaxing in the hammock all afternoon watching the lake and volcanoes.
There are houses with beautiful views for $250 a month. A good option in the future for escaping those hot Louisiana summers. Nights here are actually cool and require a blanket while the days are mostly in the 70's.
I travel in the morning to visit Chichiastenago for the famous Thursday and Sunday markets in which the Mayan hill tribes come to town to sell their wares. Soon I will be heading to southern Mexico to see Mayan temples and then back into Guatemala to visit Tikal, which is supposed to be the best of the Mayan temples. I am sure some would argue that point.
June 24, 2010. (GUATEMALA, Chichiastenago)
I have been in Chichi for the Mayan market which is on Thursdays and Sundays. All of the Mayan villagers come to town to sell their crafts, vegetables, poultry and food prepared in stalls side by side. I will add more info and pictures when I get to San Cristobal, Mexico tomorrow. I have decided to take a shuttle which will take me to the border and anothe shuttle picks me up on the other side. It is about twice as expensive as taking the chicken buses but this border crossing and the trip to it can be hazardous. Anyway all the backpackers at the last 2 hostels were all taking the shuttle so I might as well. Save me some time also not having to make lots of connections.
Friday, June 25, 2010. (Chichi to San Cristabol, Mexico)
Got up at 5:30 am for the 7 am shuttle to San Cristobal, Mexico. Nightmare. 11 hours and a flat tire later we made it to the hostel at 7 pm. Should have take the chicken bus and risked being robbed. lol
Got up at 5:30 am for the 7 am shuttle to San Cristobal, Mexico. Nightmare. 11 hours and a flat tire later we made it to the hostel at 7 pm. Should have take the chicken bus and risked being robbed. lol
June 26, 2010. (MEXICO, San Cristobal)
Beautiful city. Just watched the USA lose to Ghana in soccer and be eliminated from World Cup. Soccer never means as much until you travel out of the States and then it is everything. Wonderful group of Irish, English and Americans on the road where I am.
Beautiful city. Just watched the USA lose to Ghana in soccer and be eliminated from World Cup. Soccer never means as much until you travel out of the States and then it is everything. Wonderful group of Irish, English and Americans on the road where I am.
June 27, 2010. (MEXICO, Canon del Sumidero)
Signed up last night to do the boat ride through the Canon del Sumidero, which is supposedly pretty spectacular. This morning it was pouring down raining from Tropical Depression Alex which fortunately is on the east coast of Mexico, I am on the west side. There are no do-overs , so off we went in the packed van with what rain gear we had. It was a miserable 1.5 hrs getting soaked in the open boat with the rain coming down so hard several of us had our sunglasses on to prevent our eyes from getting stung by the rain. Got a few pictures and will post soon. There was an amazing waterfall that just came out of the side of one of the high cliffs. Still my worst days traveling are still great and I appreciate the opportunity.
Signed up last night to do the boat ride through the Canon del Sumidero, which is supposedly pretty spectacular. This morning it was pouring down raining from Tropical Depression Alex which fortunately is on the east coast of Mexico, I am on the west side. There are no do-overs , so off we went in the packed van with what rain gear we had. It was a miserable 1.5 hrs getting soaked in the open boat with the rain coming down so hard several of us had our sunglasses on to prevent our eyes from getting stung by the rain. Got a few pictures and will post soon. There was an amazing waterfall that just came out of the side of one of the high cliffs. Still my worst days traveling are still great and I appreciate the opportunity.
June 28th and 29th, 2010. (San Cristobal to Palenque, Mexico)
Left rainy San Cristobal in hopes of better weather in Palenque. I took the 1st class bus today because it left earlier and was only $3 more. The extra comfort (reclining seat), movies and air con made the 6 hr bus ride much easier. There was also a toilet on board. What will they think of next. Guess I have been riding too many "chicken buses". Beautiful weather for the ride through the mountainous southern Mexico terrain. The winding roads, beautiful scenery and knowing one wrong turn could end the bus down one of the deep ravines provide an additional rush.
Getting up early to view the ruins. Supposedly they are quite spectacular. Hopefully post pictures of the ruins tomorrow before my 8.5 hour bus and boat ride to Flores, Guatemala to see the famous Mayan ruins of Tikal.
Left rainy San Cristobal in hopes of better weather in Palenque. I took the 1st class bus today because it left earlier and was only $3 more. The extra comfort (reclining seat), movies and air con made the 6 hr bus ride much easier. There was also a toilet on board. What will they think of next. Guess I have been riding too many "chicken buses". Beautiful weather for the ride through the mountainous southern Mexico terrain. The winding roads, beautiful scenery and knowing one wrong turn could end the bus down one of the deep ravines provide an additional rush.
Getting up early to view the ruins. Supposedly they are quite spectacular. Hopefully post pictures of the ruins tomorrow before my 8.5 hour bus and boat ride to Flores, Guatemala to see the famous Mayan ruins of Tikal.
Got up at 6:30 am to get ready for the 1.5 mile hike to the Palenque ruins. To keep in shape and save the 75 cents for the collectivo ride, I headed up the path at about 7 am. Misled by reception, my short walk turned into almost 2 hrs uphill. Got my workout though but the humidity and effort climbing uphill left my clothes quite drenched. It ended up being 4.65 miles. The ruins were magnificent and in great shape. I do not have time until I get home to properly put in details of the ruins but hope the pictures give some idea of the magnitude of this place to the Mayans. The fact that you can climb all over the ruins gives it a more personal feel than say Chichen itza.
June 30, 2010. (Palenque, Mexico to Flores, Guatemalal
Shuttle, boat, shuttle for 8.5 hrs. Will post pictures when I get wifi or faster internet, hopefully Belize.
Shuttle, boat, shuttle for 8.5 hrs. Will post pictures when I get wifi or faster internet, hopefully Belize.
July 1, 2010. (GUATEMALA, Tikal)
I loved the ruins at Palenque but was blown away by the Mayan ruins and pyramids of Tikal. Our guided tour began a little after 6:30 am this morning and on the road to the ruins we were greeted by howler and spider monkeys who put on a show for us. We also saw various birds such as parrots and toucans. The highlight for me was climbing the two tallest pyramids which are both around 200 plus feet high. The first one we climbed had a wooden ladder straight up the side of the pyramid. We were rewarded at the top with an awesome view of the Mayan complex and surrounding jungle. Tikal is special in regards to other Mayan ruins in that it at one time was completely taken over by the jungle and secondly, that you are able to climb most of the pyramids. Other than the tremendous height at the top, there is also only about 2 to 3 feet of space along the top step. This makes it interesting as the other climbers arrive at the top. Sometimes getting down is scarier than going up. I have great pictures and videos and will post as soon as I find faster internet. Belize tomorrow. Time for a little 5 day vacation on the beach in the middle of my travels.
July 3, 2010. (Snorkeling in Belize)
Great day snorkeling in Belize today. Swam with nurse sharks, saw 3 large sea turtles, petted a sting ray and watched two manatees playing less than 5 ft away. Add in beautiful coral and colorful fish and you have a great day. I can live with the minor sunburn. Internet is $6 hr so blogging will be limited for a while.
Monday, July 5, 2010. (BELIZE, Diving the Blue Hole ??????)
After serious debate over the last 3 days I finally decided to dive the Blue Hole. I was told to come by at 5 pm to get outfitted and pay. Around 4:30 I stopped at a local watering hole for a beer and chat with the locals before going to the dive shop. I asked a few locals who had dived the Blue Hole what they thought and was told I would most likely be disappointed but that the other 2 dives included were nice. For $190 US I expect more than disappointment and 2 nice dives. The Blue Hole is also 2.5 hrs by boat and it is supposedly a very rough ride. One I would have made had it been spectacular. The locals said that due to the depth (120 ft.) you only have about 7 minutes when you reach your deepest point. Will save that money for extra diving in Honduras which is also supposed to be spectacular.
After serious debate over the last 3 days I finally decided to dive the Blue Hole. I was told to come by at 5 pm to get outfitted and pay. Around 4:30 I stopped at a local watering hole for a beer and chat with the locals before going to the dive shop. I asked a few locals who had dived the Blue Hole what they thought and was told I would most likely be disappointed but that the other 2 dives included were nice. For $190 US I expect more than disappointment and 2 nice dives. The Blue Hole is also 2.5 hrs by boat and it is supposedly a very rough ride. One I would have made had it been spectacular. The locals said that due to the depth (120 ft.) you only have about 7 minutes when you reach your deepest point. Will save that money for extra diving in Honduras which is also supposed to be spectacular.
July 6, 2010. (Last day in Caye Caulker, Belize)
Woke up this morning and very cloudy and depression headed our way. Another reason to be glad I did not dive yesterday. Visibility most likely would have been affected. Leave in the morning for Belize City by ferry and then bus to Placencia, Belize. Will lay around on the beach until the weekly ferry takes me to Honduras on Friday. Then on to Roatan on the Bay Islands. Serious, inexpensive diving and beaches there. Will post more pictures when I get to Honduras.
July 8, 2010. (BELIZE, Placencia)
5 hours on the bus and 2 short boat rides got me from Caye Caulker to Placencia down in southern Belize. Tomorrow I catch the 5 hr ferry to Honduras and then minivan to San Pedro Sula. One more 3-4 hour bus ride and I will be at La Ceiba, which is the launching point for all boats to the Bay Islands. I hope to spend at least 1-2 weeks there. I have decided on Utila instead of Roatan after much consideration. The beaches and diving are better on Roatan but the rooms and food are close to twice as expensive. I will check it out and if necessary I will move to Roatan later. Placencia is really beautiful with great beaches. It is located on a peninsula but quiet since it is the rainy season. Mostly rains at night.
5 hours on the bus and 2 short boat rides got me from Caye Caulker to Placencia down in southern Belize. Tomorrow I catch the 5 hr ferry to Honduras and then minivan to San Pedro Sula. One more 3-4 hour bus ride and I will be at La Ceiba, which is the launching point for all boats to the Bay Islands. I hope to spend at least 1-2 weeks there. I have decided on Utila instead of Roatan after much consideration. The beaches and diving are better on Roatan but the rooms and food are close to twice as expensive. I will check it out and if necessary I will move to Roatan later. Placencia is really beautiful with great beaches. It is located on a peninsula but quiet since it is the rainy season. Mostly rains at night.
July 10, 2010. (HONDURAS, Utila)
After a really long day on the boat and bus to La Ceiba yesterday, I finally made it to Utila. Roatan is the more touristy island in Honduras and the beaches are more beautiful and the diving is a little better, but Utila is the backpackers haven. With lodging and food less than half of that on Roatan it was an easy decision. For $185 US you get 10 dives and a free bed in a dorm at one of the dive shops. I opted for a private room at Hotel Seaside with private bath for only $10 nightly. Free wifi and hammocks on the 2nd floor
overlooking the Caribbean were bonuses. Food is very cheap compared Belize.
July 12, 2010. (HONDURAS, Utila, Jules' World Tattoo)
While sitting in the Pirate Bar in Utila Honduras waiting for the World Cup to begin, I quickly noticed a girl, Jules, who I had met earlier in Antigua. After speaking for a moment she quickly turned around to speak to someone else and that is when I noticed it, a tattoo outline of the world. I, along with many other backpackers, quickly told her how awesome it looked. She also said that she planned putting a red dot on all the places she has traveled. While sitting at the table looking almost hypnotically looking at her tattoo every time her back was facing me, I realized that I had finally gotten the inspiration for the "travel" tattoo that I had been thinking about since my trip to Thailand. She told me that she had gotten the tattoo from Mike at Tattoo Antigua in Antigua, Guatemala. I realized that if I was going to do that it would have to be a tattoo of the entire World including the specific countries. I also knew that I would like to color in each of the countries that I had traveled to. I went back to Antigua and got the outline of the world done by Mike and then got the countries colored in by Natural Mystic Tattoo in Pineville, Louisiana. The following pictures are of my initial tattoo and the progression of coloring in the countries. 70 counties so far with hopefully many more to follow.
July 15, 2010. (HONDURAS, Utila, Great Diving on North Shore)
Just realized the last 2 posts were dated June. While backpacking days of the week don't mean a thing and obviously the months are not too important either. Dove the North Shore of Utila today and went down to 110 feet, a new personal best for me. It was like swimming in a box of crayons with all the wonderful colors of fish and coral. No Whale Sharks today but maybe later.
Just realized the last 2 posts were dated June. While backpacking days of the week don't mean a thing and obviously the months are not too important either. Dove the North Shore of Utila today and went down to 110 feet, a new personal best for me. It was like swimming in a box of crayons with all the wonderful colors of fish and coral. No Whale Sharks today but maybe later.
July 15, 2010. (Thursdays injuries)
With all the fun I had diving Thursday I knew it could not last. First, I strained my lower back changing out air tanks and did not realize how bad it was until I could not get out of bed this morning. Then to make matters worse I stubbed my big toe on a concrete step and it does not look good. I went to the pharmacy this morning in an effort to get bandages, an antibiotic cream and pain pills and muscle relaxers. Pharmacies throughout Central and South America distribute just about every pill needed without you having to see a doctor. However, he did suggest I let Dr. John look at my toe. I told him I would rest a couple of days and if it does not get better see him. Dr. John is supposedly a good doctor when not drinking or self-medicated.
Monday July 19, 2010
With deep regret, it is time to move on. Not being able to dive makes it much easier. If you stay somewhere on your travels for more than a few days you get to meet the locals and interact with them. After a week, they become your extended family. But after 10 days in the same place I also have the desire for new places and experiences, which is what makes traveling so incredible. Will saw goodbye to everyone at Gunter's Diving and Skidrow today and catch the 6:20 am ferry to La Ceiba to catch the connecting bus to San Pedro Sula to catch the connecting bus to Copan Ruinas (more amazing Mayan ruins). After a few days there I will head to El Salvador to completely check off Central America from my travel wish list.
With deep regret, it is time to move on. Not being able to dive makes it much easier. If you stay somewhere on your travels for more than a few days you get to meet the locals and interact with them. After a week, they become your extended family. But after 10 days in the same place I also have the desire for new places and experiences, which is what makes traveling so incredible. Will saw goodbye to everyone at Gunter's Diving and Skidrow today and catch the 6:20 am ferry to La Ceiba to catch the connecting bus to San Pedro Sula to catch the connecting bus to Copan Ruinas (more amazing Mayan ruins). After a few days there I will head to El Salvador to completely check off Central America from my travel wish list.
Wednesday July 21, 2010
"During the Classic period (AD 250-900), the city at Copan Ruinas culturally dominated the region for centuries. The architecture is not as grand as Tikal's but the city produced remarkable sculptures and hieroglyphics. Its culture was so developed, it is often labeled the 'Paris of the Maya world '." Lonely Planet
The ruins were simply amazing and detail was spectacular.
July 22, 2010. (Crazy day traveling to La Palma, El Salvador)
Caught the chicken bus (retired yellow US school bus with over 400,000 miles) to save a little money. The 2.5 hr bus ride to La Entrada to catch the connecting bus was only $2.50. That comes with its own price of stopping to pickup everyone walking down the road and stops for no apparent reason. The exciting part came when we got to the top of the mountain. It is as though the brakes on the bus no longer worked. We were going 50 mph down the mountain with hairpin curves at every corner. Not much scares me anymore but I was starting to get a little concerned because earlier the brakes did not sound like they were in good shape. I looked around to see if anyone else was concerned including the 5 or so children on the bus. No worries, everyone seemed to be going on with their routines. I decided to embrace it rather than panic and enjoyed the rest of the ride. Disneyland or Six Flags had nothing on this bus ride.
Next I changed buses in La Entrada for the rest of the ride to the border. The bus would almost be considered 1st Class (it wasn't) and had a bathroom. The 4.5 hr ride would have been fine if not for the Best of the 80's tape that he was playing over and over. To make it worse he had about 4 songs that he was seriously attached to. After a while it was like Chinese Water Torture. At the end of one song you could just sense what song was going to play next and no matter how much you wished for it to be a new song, it wasn't. Finally made it to the border.
A little confusion over if I had paid my tourist fee earlier and finally made it across the border just in time to have missed the last bus to La Palma (8 miles away). As I am walking towards La Palma trying to decide whether to walk it or find a dive to stay in, a tuk tuk (3 wheel motor taxi) pulls up and says he will take me to La Palma for $6. Thought about it and realized dark would soon be approaching and agreed.
However, things did end on a positive note. Stopped at a really nice hotel which looked too expensive just to check prices and she said a private room with hot water and bathroom was $15 a night. Beautiful place with free wi-fi , a pool and restaurant. I told her that the price sounded okay but I would have to check a few other places. As I was walking away the owner spoke to her in Spanish and she said she had been mistaken that the rooms were only $10 a night. Quickly dropped my bags and signed in. The restaurant is pricey and I only eat there on every now and then, with my $5 daily savings.
As I posted on facebook, currency can be confusing when changing countries often. (colones in Costa Rica, quetzales in Guatemala, pesos in Mexico, Belizean Dollars in Belize, lempiras in Honduras, and now American Dollars in El Salvador). No kidding, its their official currency. Go figure.
Caught the chicken bus (retired yellow US school bus with over 400,000 miles) to save a little money. The 2.5 hr bus ride to La Entrada to catch the connecting bus was only $2.50. That comes with its own price of stopping to pickup everyone walking down the road and stops for no apparent reason. The exciting part came when we got to the top of the mountain. It is as though the brakes on the bus no longer worked. We were going 50 mph down the mountain with hairpin curves at every corner. Not much scares me anymore but I was starting to get a little concerned because earlier the brakes did not sound like they were in good shape. I looked around to see if anyone else was concerned including the 5 or so children on the bus. No worries, everyone seemed to be going on with their routines. I decided to embrace it rather than panic and enjoyed the rest of the ride. Disneyland or Six Flags had nothing on this bus ride.
Next I changed buses in La Entrada for the rest of the ride to the border. The bus would almost be considered 1st Class (it wasn't) and had a bathroom. The 4.5 hr ride would have been fine if not for the Best of the 80's tape that he was playing over and over. To make it worse he had about 4 songs that he was seriously attached to. After a while it was like Chinese Water Torture. At the end of one song you could just sense what song was going to play next and no matter how much you wished for it to be a new song, it wasn't. Finally made it to the border.
A little confusion over if I had paid my tourist fee earlier and finally made it across the border just in time to have missed the last bus to La Palma (8 miles away). As I am walking towards La Palma trying to decide whether to walk it or find a dive to stay in, a tuk tuk (3 wheel motor taxi) pulls up and says he will take me to La Palma for $6. Thought about it and realized dark would soon be approaching and agreed.
However, things did end on a positive note. Stopped at a really nice hotel which looked too expensive just to check prices and she said a private room with hot water and bathroom was $15 a night. Beautiful place with free wi-fi , a pool and restaurant. I told her that the price sounded okay but I would have to check a few other places. As I was walking away the owner spoke to her in Spanish and she said she had been mistaken that the rooms were only $10 a night. Quickly dropped my bags and signed in. The restaurant is pricey and I only eat there on every now and then, with my $5 daily savings.
As I posted on facebook, currency can be confusing when changing countries often. (colones in Costa Rica, quetzales in Guatemala, pesos in Mexico, Belizean Dollars in Belize, lempiras in Honduras, and now American Dollars in El Salvador). No kidding, its their official currency. Go figure.
July 23, 2010. (EL SALVADOR, La Palma)
Regarding La Palma, Lonely Planet states, "At first glance, La Palma, at 1200m, resembles a coloring-book page zealously attended to by a seven-year-old. Its narrow streets are populated with tiny, tiled homes in garish tones of plum, mint and tangerine, some covered in fanciful murals or drawings."
That is a perfect description with murals and artists everywhere.
I have probably traveled to more than 100 Parque Centrals throughout South and Central America and every time I visit one a sense of jealousy occurs. Regardless of the size of the town, everything revolves around the central park. Children play there and family and friends congregate there just to socialize rather than get home to watch more television. I am not sure why our culture does not have this but I can only assume that our towns are built around the highways rather than the highways built to the town. Still a little sad that the majority of towns don't have this. I believe the Spanish got it right here.
Sunday July 25, 2010. (EL SALVADOR, Playa El Tunco)
After 5 hrs of traveling, I arrived at the beach, Playa El Tunco, on the Pacific side of El Salvador. The beaches are known for one thing, the best surfing in Central America. Serious waves. The black sand beaches are almost non existent at this time of year until the tide goes out, mostly black volcanic rock. Found a great place to stay, Tunco Lodge, for only $8 a night in the 3 person dorm. It has a swimming pool and free wi-fi, so this will make a great place to stop for a while, chill out and watch some really good surfers. Love to travel but really missing the family, especially the grandkids, Kade and Madison.
After 5 hrs of traveling, I arrived at the beach, Playa El Tunco, on the Pacific side of El Salvador. The beaches are known for one thing, the best surfing in Central America. Serious waves. The black sand beaches are almost non existent at this time of year until the tide goes out, mostly black volcanic rock. Found a great place to stay, Tunco Lodge, for only $8 a night in the 3 person dorm. It has a swimming pool and free wi-fi, so this will make a great place to stop for a while, chill out and watch some really good surfers. Love to travel but really missing the family, especially the grandkids, Kade and Madison.
July 26, 2010. (EL SALVADOR, Playa El Tunco)
Spent the evening with great new friends from New Zealand, Ireland, the U.S. and a few locals., Can't explain how great it is to trade travel stories and watch great surfing while doing so, but it is truly a great experience. No matter how little your travel experience is, it is special to listen to other people's stories. My only wish is for others to travel and experience the same wonder that I am lucky enough to experience.
Spent the evening with great new friends from New Zealand, Ireland, the U.S. and a few locals., Can't explain how great it is to trade travel stories and watch great surfing while doing so, but it is truly a great experience. No matter how little your travel experience is, it is special to listen to other people's stories. My only wish is for others to travel and experience the same wonder that I am lucky enough to experience.
Saturday July 31, 2010. (EL SALVADOR, Juayua)
Finally back to traveling and seeing the sights. Juayua is the beginning of my journey down the Ruta de las Flores, a winding ride through coffee country, from Sonsonate to Ahuachapan. These mountainous villages are flanked by coffee farms and volcanoes. There is a large outdoor food fair on the weekends near the Parque Central. Will travel for another week or so and then head back to Antigua. Should visit at least 3-4 other villages before crossing back into Guatemala.
Finally back to traveling and seeing the sights. Juayua is the beginning of my journey down the Ruta de las Flores, a winding ride through coffee country, from Sonsonate to Ahuachapan. These mountainous villages are flanked by coffee farms and volcanoes. There is a large outdoor food fair on the weekends near the Parque Central. Will travel for another week or so and then head back to Antigua. Should visit at least 3-4 other villages before crossing back into Guatemala.
Every weekend Juayua has a food fair that is located around the central park. There are over 50 food stalls cooking up everything imaginable but chicken, shrimp and ribs seem to be the favorites. The food is truly incredible. There are large tents everywhere with plastic tables and chairs and local favorite singers at several venues throughout the food fair. Most pictures were taken before the crowds arrived as I quickly forgot about taking pictures and enjoyed the festivities. They do this EVERY WEEKEND. Too much fun.
August 2, 2010. (Juayua, El Salvador to Antigua, Guatemala)
After about 8 hours and several "chicken buses", I made it to Antigua. This completes my full circle of travel to see the Mayan ruins. I will fly home on the 17th and use the remainder of my time to visit Lake Atitlan and get my tattoo in Antigua before my departure.
August 3, 2010. (GUATEMALA, Antigua, tattoo appointment)
I got up and went searching for Antigua Tattoo. That is where my friend, Jules, had gotten her world tattoo outline several weeks ago which was my inspiration. However, I had decided to include EVERY COUNTRY outlined in my World Tattoo and color in each country after I visited them. Mike, the owner, however was not in today so I schedule an appointment for August 12th to get my 1st EVER TATTOO. I will leave on the 5th to enjoy the lake until my tattoo appointment.
August 5, 2010. (GUATEMALA, San Pedro la Laguna)
The Mayans believed that Lake Atitlan was the umbilical cord to the Universe. It's said that once you have visited the Lake you will always feel the yearning to return. I believe this and possibly the reason I am back again. My first time I was isolated in Santa Cruz on the lake with little knowledge of the other villages. My trip to San Pedro, considered the backpacker village, opened my eyes to all of the lake activity. With many inexpensive hotels and restaurants this quickly felt like somewhere I could live.
I found a great hotel, Villa Del Lago, on the lake as the name implies for only $7 a night for a private room.
August 6, 2010. (GUATEMALA, laundry)
I woke at 6:15 am to voices right outside my room. I could hear several women talking but of course, did not understand what they were saying. I looked outside my window and noticed several women waist deep in the lake. Seems they were just doing laundry on flat rocks located in the lake. Some traditions never die it seems.
August 8, 2010
I enjoyed a plate of spaghetti and Gallo cerveza (beer) at the Dock Restaurant and watched the many taxi/boats ferrying passengers around the lake. There are approximately 13 villages scattered around the lake and passenger boats are the primary mode of transportation. Later I walked to the Alegre Pub for a couple of beers and conversation with many of the ex pats and fellow backpackers. The Alegre Pub owned by Simon has amazing food.
August 9, 2010. (GUATEMALA, climbing Volcan San Pedro)
Left at 6 am to climb Volcan San Pedro which is 9,600 ft high. We climbed STRAIGHT UP for over 3 hrs with only 2 small breaks of 5 minutes each. Did not realize how bad of shape I was in until this climb. The effort was well rewarded with a spectacular view of the lake and the surrounding volcanoes. We even witnessed Volcan Pacaya near Antigua erupting smoke. Pictures at summit were a little hazy and unfortunately doesn't portray the actual beauty that we all witnessed.
August 11, 2010
I leave tomorrow for Antigua to get my much anticipated World tattoo and then fly home on the 17th. I have been on the beautiful Lake Atitlan for the past 7 days and it has been great. Wanted to share some random San Pedro pictures. It is my favorite place in the World.
August 12, 2010. GUATEMALA, Antigua, Tattoo Day)
Back in Antigua for 3rd time this trip to get my tattoo at 3:30 today. I have no clue as to what it is like getting a tattoo and the fact that it will cover my entire back concerns me that it will be very painful. Mike and I discussed the tattoo before beginning and asked if I could handle the pain for next 3 hours. I told him I didn't know as I had never had a tattoo. Needless to say, the pain was intense, at least for me. But I seemed to mentally accept the "discomfort" as I became accustomed to the stinging pain. No one, not even my family knew of my plans. Will not color in any countries this trip as there is not enough time and the outline needs to heal. After completion, Mike placed plastic wrap over my tattoo and told me I could remove it and clean it off in a couple of hours.
2 hours later, in anticipation, I removed the plastic wrap and gently wiped my back. Tgen I looked at my tattoo in a mirror for the 1st time. WHAT !!!! Upon inspection I realized me had places New Zealand on the WRONG SIDE of Australia. I immediately started getting dressed to go back and complain.
Then it dawned on me. I WAS LOOKING IN THE MIRROR and everything was reversed. I felt like an idiot bit fortunately did not go back to the tattoo shop. That night was very painful as I sleep on my back BUT the tattoo looked GREAT.
Note: Before deciding on a World Tattoo that included all the countries I "GOOGLED" to see if anyone else had done that and found nothing similar.
August 13-17th, 2010. (GUATEMALA, Antigua revisited)
Guatemala is definitely worth a trip in itself. With Antigua surrounded by volcanoes, Lake Atitlan (one of most beautiful lakes in the world, Chichicastenago market and Tikal just to name a few, there is so much to do and see it can easily fill 2-4 weeks. I did not make it to Semuc Champey which is a series of pools of water which most say is the most beautiful place in Guatemala. I will post my final pictures of the trip later on Saturday or Sunday. Much appreciation to those who took the time to look at my blog and share this trip with me.
An incredible 70 days traveling through Central America (Costa Rica, Guatemala, southern Mexico, Belize, Honduras and El Salvador). I enjoyed the people of each country especially El Salvador. All countries were beautiful but Guatemala is truly magnificent and probably the next destination for travel with my family. With beautiful Antigua ( which is enough alone), Lake Atitlan (one of most beautiful lakes in the world), and Tikal (magnificent Mayan ruins) just to name a few, there is enough to consume as long as you want to stay. It is very inexpensive and as opposed to Costa Rica, the shuttles are inexpensive. Shuttles in Guatemala are between $5-$10 a person depending on where you are going instead of $35-$45 per person in Costa Rica. Guatemala also provides easy access to either southern Mexico, Belize, Honduras or El Salvador. Convinced that Guatemala should be at the top of everyone's travel destinations due to diversity, beauty and inexpensive cost. Flight home the 17th.
GREAT TRIP and 1ST TATTOO
CHAPTER 12. (GRAND CANYON & SOUTH AMERICA, Part 1) October 20 - December 27th
GRAND CANYON
October 20, 2010
Making final preparations for the Grand Canyon whitewater rafting trip. My brother, Morgan, and my son, Scott, will begin the trip at Lee's Ferry starting on December 1st and meet up with myself and Scott Tffee at Phantom Ranch on December 5th. After camping for the night, Morgan and Scott Passman will hike out and Scott Tiffe and myself will complete the remaining 9 days of trip. There will be 2 rafts and not sure of the total number of people traveling in our group at any one time but think it will be between 5 and 6 including the raft guides. Don't really know what to expect except that the water is about 40 degrees and keeping dry while rafting down the river is desired, if possible. Most people raft down the river during the summer but Morgan and Mike have a private permit and late fall and winter is usually when those are available. But having a private permit allows you to travel for less than 1/2 of the normal guided price.
Making final preparations for the Grand Canyon whitewater rafting trip. My brother, Morgan, and my son, Scott, will begin the trip at Lee's Ferry starting on December 1st and meet up with myself and Scott Tffee at Phantom Ranch on December 5th. After camping for the night, Morgan and Scott Passman will hike out and Scott Tiffe and myself will complete the remaining 9 days of trip. There will be 2 rafts and not sure of the total number of people traveling in our group at any one time but think it will be between 5 and 6 including the raft guides. Don't really know what to expect except that the water is about 40 degrees and keeping dry while rafting down the river is desired, if possible. Most people raft down the river during the summer but Morgan and Mike have a private permit and late fall and winter is usually when those are available. But having a private permit allows you to travel for less than 1/2 of the normal guided price.
November 4, 2010 (Baton Rouge to Flagstaff)
After spending the night at Jon', Scott Tiffee (Scott's father-in-law) and I flew from BR airport to Phoenix and then took a 3 hour shuttle to Flagstaff. Cleaned up and went to Mexican restaurant for 1/2 price appetizers and 1/2 price Dos Equis on draft and some quality time with Melanie, our waitress. Back to the room for sleep because the shuttle to Grand Canyon leaves at 8 am. Flagstaff is a beautiful college town (North Arizona University) of 50,000 set at an elevation of 7000 ft.
After spending the night at Jon', Scott Tiffee (Scott's father-in-law) and I flew from BR airport to Phoenix and then took a 3 hour shuttle to Flagstaff. Cleaned up and went to Mexican restaurant for 1/2 price appetizers and 1/2 price Dos Equis on draft and some quality time with Melanie, our waitress. Back to the room for sleep because the shuttle to Grand Canyon leaves at 8 am. Flagstaff is a beautiful college town (North Arizona University) of 50,000 set at an elevation of 7000 ft.
November 5, 2010. (South Rim to Phantom Ranch)
Caught the 8 am shuttle from the Amtrak station to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. This is the area that most people visit when they go to the Grand Canyon. After being dropped off we got a sandwich for the 9.2 mile hike down the Bright Angel Trail and made sure out water bottles were full. The canyon view from the South Rim was spectacular. We began our hike down the trail around 10:40 am expecting a 4 hour hike to Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the canyon. We passed several packs of mules with riders coming up from Phantom Ranch and many struggling hikers. We walked for what seemed like an eternity with our knees taking a beating on the descent of the trail and then realized we were only half way after 3 painful hours of hiking. We finally reached our destination after 5 pm where we were supposed to signal Morgan and the others to raft across the Colorado to pick us up and return to the camp site. However, we saw a raft on our side of the river with 2 life jackets in front. We decided they must have left us the boat for us to row over when we go there. Scott manned the oars and off we went to TRY and cross the river. 2 minutes after rowing we heard a voice screaming to come back. Seems they were all on our side of the river looking for us and we were not meant to try and cross. Hate to think of what would have happened had the Colorado River gotten hold of our raft with our inexperienced crew.
Caught the 8 am shuttle from the Amtrak station to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. This is the area that most people visit when they go to the Grand Canyon. After being dropped off we got a sandwich for the 9.2 mile hike down the Bright Angel Trail and made sure out water bottles were full. The canyon view from the South Rim was spectacular. We began our hike down the trail around 10:40 am expecting a 4 hour hike to Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the canyon. We passed several packs of mules with riders coming up from Phantom Ranch and many struggling hikers. We walked for what seemed like an eternity with our knees taking a beating on the descent of the trail and then realized we were only half way after 3 painful hours of hiking. We finally reached our destination after 5 pm where we were supposed to signal Morgan and the others to raft across the Colorado to pick us up and return to the camp site. However, we saw a raft on our side of the river with 2 life jackets in front. We decided they must have left us the boat for us to row over when we go there. Scott manned the oars and off we went to TRY and cross the river. 2 minutes after rowing we heard a voice screaming to come back. Seems they were all on our side of the river looking for us and we were not meant to try and cross. Hate to think of what would have happened had the Colorado River gotten hold of our raft with our inexperienced crew.
November 6-13, 2010. (Rafting the Colorado River)
While I normally blog each day of a trip, I found it almost impossible to express the beauty and wonder of rafting down the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon. I have decided to give a synopsis of our daily routine and let the pictures do the rest. Our boats were full with ice chests and prepacked daily meals in ammo cans for us to cook each day from our set menu.
Morning
Each morning begins early with JC (main guide) getting the kitchen going and getting breakfast started. We began packing up our cots and packing our dry bags so that we can load the boat after breakfast. Packing the boat and making sure everything is secure usually takes over an hour. We usually start down the river around 9:30 am. Each morning usually involves a few really good rapids that is almost certain to get you wet to some extent. There is also a lot of rowing when there is little current at some portion of the river. I was on the raft with Lance who was rafting his 1st time down the river. Scott and Mike were in the raft with JC who has guided groups down the river 281 times. For some reason I could only row backwards. Just couldn't get the frontward rowing. If the rapids were large, we would pull over and scout the rapids to decide which was the best route.
While I normally blog each day of a trip, I found it almost impossible to express the beauty and wonder of rafting down the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon. I have decided to give a synopsis of our daily routine and let the pictures do the rest. Our boats were full with ice chests and prepacked daily meals in ammo cans for us to cook each day from our set menu.
Morning
Each morning begins early with JC (main guide) getting the kitchen going and getting breakfast started. We began packing up our cots and packing our dry bags so that we can load the boat after breakfast. Packing the boat and making sure everything is secure usually takes over an hour. We usually start down the river around 9:30 am. Each morning usually involves a few really good rapids that is almost certain to get you wet to some extent. There is also a lot of rowing when there is little current at some portion of the river. I was on the raft with Lance who was rafting his 1st time down the river. Scott and Mike were in the raft with JC who has guided groups down the river 281 times. For some reason I could only row backwards. Just couldn't get the frontward rowing. If the rapids were large, we would pull over and scout the rapids to decide which was the best route.
Lunch
Lunch was usually sandwiches and almost always on the river. We would tie the boats together and just drift on periods of the river which did not have major rapids. Quick bite to eat, unhook and back to rafting the larger rapids. An unexpected addition to the rafting was the canyon side trips which were anywhere from 1-3 times a day. JC would show us side canyon, waterfalls and swimming holes which I am sure would more enticing in the summer. The side trips were really enjoyable.
Evening
We would usually make camp around 4-5 pm. Of course then we would have to unload the boat with all our stuff on it. Takes about an hour to unload, set up the kitchen, get water and get our cots and beds ready. Dinner is always the best meal of the day. Started out sleeping in a tent with my sleeping bag and an air mattress while everyone else had a cot under the stars with their sleeping bag. One night in a tent on the hard ground convinced me to switch to a cot. It got down to 37 one night but that is why you invest in a good sleeping bag. We always went to bed at 9. Watching the stars, satellites, planes, and shooting stars at night was one of my favorite things I enjoyed on the trip.
Note: The rapids varied greatly. Some just looked scary while others looked easy but weren't. One rapid involved had a 20 foot wave which came over our boat and soaked everyone. JC and Lance made it look easy and JC's experience was invaluable. I wish the pictures could convey the beauty and wonder of rafting down the Grand Canyon but it won't, at least not to the level that it truly is. It is just one of those things you should experience yourself.
November 14, 2010
We had camped only 2 miles above Indian Creek where our outfitter, Ceiba, was to pick our rafts, equipment and Scott and I at 10 am I for the trip back to Flagstaff. Since there were no big rapids we did not have to secure all of our bags and camping equipment. When we got to the landing, JC's wife, Diane, was there to pick up JC, Lance and Mike for the return trip to Las Vegas. Shortly thereafter, the Ceiba truck with long bed trailer showed up and we quickly loaded all the rafts and equipment. The landing is on the Hualapi reservation and the road back to the main highway takes about an hour and is dirt and some gravel. About 30 minutes into the trip the trailer breaks around the axle and tire mounting. We removed the tire and relied on the remaining 5 tires for the remaining 2.5 hr trip. We were dropped off at our discount hotel and I quickly waited for the hot water in the shower to get hot so I could take my first shower in more than 9 DAYS. YOU HEARD ME. Irish Pub, food, beer and a bed for a change. ANOTHER trip of a lifetime.
We had camped only 2 miles above Indian Creek where our outfitter, Ceiba, was to pick our rafts, equipment and Scott and I at 10 am I for the trip back to Flagstaff. Since there were no big rapids we did not have to secure all of our bags and camping equipment. When we got to the landing, JC's wife, Diane, was there to pick up JC, Lance and Mike for the return trip to Las Vegas. Shortly thereafter, the Ceiba truck with long bed trailer showed up and we quickly loaded all the rafts and equipment. The landing is on the Hualapi reservation and the road back to the main highway takes about an hour and is dirt and some gravel. About 30 minutes into the trip the trailer breaks around the axle and tire mounting. We removed the tire and relied on the remaining 5 tires for the remaining 2.5 hr trip. We were dropped off at our discount hotel and I quickly waited for the hot water in the shower to get hot so I could take my first shower in more than 9 DAYS. YOU HEARD ME. Irish Pub, food, beer and a bed for a change. ANOTHER trip of a lifetime.
SOUTH AMERICA (Part 1)
November 15th and 16th, 2010 (Flagstaff to Ft. Lauderdale to Cartagena to Bogota to Cali)
Arrived in Cartagena at 1:30 pm and then was supposed to catch a connecting flight to Bogota at 3:55 pm but it was delayed until 5:30 pm. Colombia is known worldwide for its beautiful women but while waiting at the departure gate every woman seemed incredibly beautiful. There were about 300 people waiting for flights and at least 40 of them could have been a model anywhere in the world. Found out they had been contestants in the Miss Colombia contest the previous night in Cartagena and were all flying home the same afternoon. The delay seemed to pass much too much quickly. LOL Finally made it to Bogota around 6:45 pm and then caught the connecting flight to Cali at 8:30 pm and arrived at 9:30. The cab driver the hostel sent was not there when I got outside so found my own cab and made it to the hostel around 10:30 pm. Long 2 days and slept like a baby.
November 17, 2010 (Day 3) COLOMBIA, Cali
Woke up at 7:30 am well rested for the first time in 2 weeks. Spent most of the day blogging and posting pictures and watched a couple of movies at the hostel. Met a German, Tom, who was staying at the hostel and chatted for a while. No time, energy or desire to check out the famous Cali nightlife on Sexta Avenue. Another big day of traveling tomorrow with 9 hrs on bus to Pasto. Highlight of my day was talking to Kade, Madison and Scott on Skype. Skype definitely helps but does not cure missing everyone.
Woke up at 7:30 am well rested for the first time in 2 weeks. Spent most of the day blogging and posting pictures and watched a couple of movies at the hostel. Met a German, Tom, who was staying at the hostel and chatted for a while. No time, energy or desire to check out the famous Cali nightlife on Sexta Avenue. Another big day of traveling tomorrow with 9 hrs on bus to Pasto. Highlight of my day was talking to Kade, Madison and Scott on Skype. Skype definitely helps but does not cure missing everyone.
Nov. 18, 2010 (Day 4) Cali to Pasto (9 hrs on a bus thru the mountains)
Caught a cab from Casa Blanca Hostel to the bus terminal. On the way to the terminal the police were placing yellow tape around a shooting that had just occurred on the street according to the taxi driver. Sometimes you forget where you are and that Colombia is and can be dangerous if you are not careful. Of course, so can BR or NO. That is why selecting a hostel in a safe neighborhood and not venturing out late at night without a group is important and always take a cab at night. Got to the bus terminal around 7:30 am and they quickly tried to jam me on a crowded bus. It was obvious that the other passengers did not want me in their crowded space so I stepped off the bus. Then the driver offered me a seat in the front with him so off we went. The trip through the Colombian mountains was both beautiful and a little scary. Hairpin turn and some crazy driving high in the mountains makes for an interesting day. There were 5 instances where landslides had occurred with only one serious enough to close the road for a while. Dozers and gravel trucks were working on it but we found a road around it. We also had a police encounter where everyone had to get off the bus. Not sure why since my Spanish is very limited. Have I mentioned that almost no one speaks English in South America. In Central America most speak at little some English it seems. Got to Pasto around 5:30 pm, caught a cab and booked a room at Koala Hostel which was recommended by Lonely Planet. Private room with tv and wifi for only $8.50 night. Will catch another bus to the border of Ecuador and then to Quito. Not sure but expecting 5-6 hrs tomorrow and then 12 days in Quito seeing the sites in Ecuador and learning Spanish, hopefully.
November 19, 2010 (Day 5) Pasto, Colombia to Quito, Ecuador
Left around 7:30 am and walked the 1.2 miles to the bus station and caught a bus to the border. After quickly getting thru Colombian Immigration, I walked across the street and quickly got thru Ecuador Immigration. Had to be the easiest border crossing ever. Usually there is about 3 miles between immigration and countless people trying to con you out of your money between them. Then I caught a taxi to the bus station which was 6 miles away and then a 5 hr bus to Quito, Ecuador. Arrived around 4:30 pm and then a 45 minute taxi ride to Old Quito in the Historic District to the Hostel Quito Cultural which is really a nice hotel. I plan on staying here until December 3rd and got a private room rate of $13.50 after negotiation including cable TV and breakfast. Only 2 blocks from the Grand Plaza. I have only walked around for about 30 minutes but promise there will be some amazing photos over the next few days. Hoping to find a good Spanish school tomorrow.
Another great day of sights riding through the mountains but no pictures unfortunately because the windows were heavily tinted.
Left around 7:30 am and walked the 1.2 miles to the bus station and caught a bus to the border. After quickly getting thru Colombian Immigration, I walked across the street and quickly got thru Ecuador Immigration. Had to be the easiest border crossing ever. Usually there is about 3 miles between immigration and countless people trying to con you out of your money between them. Then I caught a taxi to the bus station which was 6 miles away and then a 5 hr bus to Quito, Ecuador. Arrived around 4:30 pm and then a 45 minute taxi ride to Old Quito in the Historic District to the Hostel Quito Cultural which is really a nice hotel. I plan on staying here until December 3rd and got a private room rate of $13.50 after negotiation including cable TV and breakfast. Only 2 blocks from the Grand Plaza. I have only walked around for about 30 minutes but promise there will be some amazing photos over the next few days. Hoping to find a good Spanish school tomorrow.
Another great day of sights riding through the mountains but no pictures unfortunately because the windows were heavily tinted.
November 21, 2010. (Street Parades by the Grand Plaza)
Met a nice Australian couple, Peter and Sadie, at breakfast who asked if I wanted to share a cab to the teleferiQo (sky tram) that leads to the best view of Quito at 4100 meters (13,200 feet). Since the weather was beautiful for a change I decided to chance the weather even though the weather in Quito can change in a second.
We split the $5 cab ride and paid the $7.50 fee up the 2.5 km ride up the mountain. The view was spectacular and the weather remained good for the 1.5 hrs we spent on top. Started raining hard 2 hrs later.
Wonderful parades around the Grand Plaza especially the guys on stilts doing flips and splits WHILE ON STILTS. Unfortunately I forgot my camera had video on it. I am so electronically challenged. It started to rain so the parades were cut short so don't have any more pictures. Maybe next Sunday.
November 22, 2010. (teleferiQo [sky tram] to Cruz Loma)
Met a nice Australian couple, Peter and Sadie, at breakfast who asked if I wanted to share a cab to the teleferiQo (sky tram) that leads to the best view of Quito at 4100 meters (13,200 feet). Since the weather was beautiful for a change I decided to chance the weather even though the weather in Quito can change in a second.
We split the $5 cab ride and paid the $7.50 fee up the 2.5 km ride up the mountain. The view was spectacular and the weather remained good for the 1.5 hrs we spent on top. Started raining hard 2 hrs later.
Tuesday, November 23, 2010 (Putting the day of the week down helps me keep track) lol
Caught a taxi to go to El Panacillo (Little Bread Loaf) , a hill to the south of Quito, which is topped by a huge statue of La Virgen de Quito and offers incredible views of the whole city and surrounding volcanoes.
Caught a taxi to go to El Panacillo (Little Bread Loaf) , a hill to the south of Quito, which is topped by a huge statue of La Virgen de Quito and offers incredible views of the whole city and surrounding volcanoes.
December 1, 2010. (Basilica del Voto Nacional)
Went to the Basilica today. Did not tour the inside but climbed to the top for great view of the city. Climbed all the way to the top of the bell tower. Quite a climb to the top of one of the spires.
Went to the Basilica today. Did not tour the inside but climbed to the top for great view of the city. Climbed all the way to the top of the bell tower. Quite a climb to the top of one of the spires.
December 2, 2010. (Laguna del Quilotoa)
Went on a tour of Laguna del Quilotoa which is a beautiful lake inside a volcano at about 13,000 feet high. We started out at 7 am with my guide and it took almost 4.5 hrs to get there after stopping for the food market at Saquisili for approx. 45 minutes. The ride in our car was even more scary and exciting than the bus trip from Colombia. The road was very high and many hairpin turns with no barriers to keep you from hurtling to your death. We almost got killed when a Giant Orange Dump Truck tried to pass another dump truck on a curve. Still not sure how the 3 vehicles all fit on that narrow mountain road. Probably most scared I have ever been in an automobile. We encountered several other large trucks on the way up the mountain and they all seemed to be racing each other down with little concern for safety. The return trip in the pitch dark of night with all the hairpin curves was no piece of cake either.
Back to the Laguna. We started our trek along the top of the crater around 12 pm. It was my guide, Mateus' first time to Quilotoa, so we were both experiencing it for the 1st time. As we started the journey we immediately found ourselves with a new guide, a brown dog, that seemed determined to lead the way. The trip was to last about 4 hrs. The path along the top of the crater started out very beautiful until the clouds rolled in and we could no longer see the lake. That did not deter us from completing the walk around the crater rim. The dog kept us on the trail a few times when we would have taken a wrong path. The climb was very strenuous as we kept climbing and then descending over and over. We finally reached the approximate end of the trail and saw what looked like a road near a path that went inside the crater. Unfortunately we took the crater path. 2 hours later, lost, we found a native who was was tending sheep who said we would have to walk straight up the mountain that we had descended to get back on the path. It looked too difficult so we continued looking for a better path. With only an hour of daylight, we asked another native woman to guide us out of the crater. We started straight up the wall of the crater for an hour and reached our car about 10 minutes before dark. I paid the woman $10 ($7 more than we had negotiated) because I realized the danger we had been in lost without a flashlight and totally exhausted. We arrived back at the hostel around 9:30 pm laughing about the whole adventure which is easy to do when you are once again safe. Leave for Mendoza tomorrow night on a plane.
Went on a tour of Laguna del Quilotoa which is a beautiful lake inside a volcano at about 13,000 feet high. We started out at 7 am with my guide and it took almost 4.5 hrs to get there after stopping for the food market at Saquisili for approx. 45 minutes. The ride in our car was even more scary and exciting than the bus trip from Colombia. The road was very high and many hairpin turns with no barriers to keep you from hurtling to your death. We almost got killed when a Giant Orange Dump Truck tried to pass another dump truck on a curve. Still not sure how the 3 vehicles all fit on that narrow mountain road. Probably most scared I have ever been in an automobile. We encountered several other large trucks on the way up the mountain and they all seemed to be racing each other down with little concern for safety. The return trip in the pitch dark of night with all the hairpin curves was no piece of cake either.
Back to the Laguna. We started our trek along the top of the crater around 12 pm. It was my guide, Mateus' first time to Quilotoa, so we were both experiencing it for the 1st time. As we started the journey we immediately found ourselves with a new guide, a brown dog, that seemed determined to lead the way. The trip was to last about 4 hrs. The path along the top of the crater started out very beautiful until the clouds rolled in and we could no longer see the lake. That did not deter us from completing the walk around the crater rim. The dog kept us on the trail a few times when we would have taken a wrong path. The climb was very strenuous as we kept climbing and then descending over and over. We finally reached the approximate end of the trail and saw what looked like a road near a path that went inside the crater. Unfortunately we took the crater path. 2 hours later, lost, we found a native who was was tending sheep who said we would have to walk straight up the mountain that we had descended to get back on the path. It looked too difficult so we continued looking for a better path. With only an hour of daylight, we asked another native woman to guide us out of the crater. We started straight up the wall of the crater for an hour and reached our car about 10 minutes before dark. I paid the woman $10 ($7 more than we had negotiated) because I realized the danger we had been in lost without a flashlight and totally exhausted. We arrived back at the hostel around 9:30 pm laughing about the whole adventure which is easy to do when you are once again safe. Leave for Mendoza tomorrow night on a plane.
December 3rd and 4th, 2010. (Flight from Quito, Ecuador to Mendoza, Argentina)
Arrived in Mendoza around 10:30 am this morning after a long night in airports and on planes. I left Quito around 4 pm yesterday, had 2 55 minute flights and one 4 hr flight from Santiago to Mendoza this morning. Beautiful scenery flying over the Andes. Back in 4 bed dorm after being spoiled in private room in Quito but so far I am only one in the room. Love the high 80's daytime weather and high 60's at night but know it will be colder when I get to Patagonia in a few days.
Sunday, December 5, 2010. (Sarmiento Avenue and Plaza)
Sarmiento Avenue is not as grand as Los Ramblas in Barcelona but is still a great place to go and have food and drink in an outside cafe and people watch. The avenue leads to the plaza which is not special until they turn on the water fountains. Loving the hostel life again. Still lucky I am only one in the 4 bed dorm. Free pizza and 1/2 price drinks last night and free breakfast every morning. Lot of great backpackers here with great stories. Finally caught up on my sleep after being up for 48 hrs traveling to Mendoza. Hopefully, wine tasting tour tomorrow.
Sarmiento Avenue is not as grand as Los Ramblas in Barcelona but is still a great place to go and have food and drink in an outside cafe and people watch. The avenue leads to the plaza which is not special until they turn on the water fountains. Loving the hostel life again. Still lucky I am only one in the 4 bed dorm. Free pizza and 1/2 price drinks last night and free breakfast every morning. Lot of great backpackers here with great stories. Finally caught up on my sleep after being up for 48 hrs traveling to Mendoza. Hopefully, wine tasting tour tomorrow.
December 6, 2010. (Loving the laid back vibe of Argentin's wine country)
Finally getting used to Argentina's schedule which is lunch around 2 pm and then a slow dinner involving food, wine and people watchiing from about 8-10 pm. Of course there is always someone playing a guitar and singing for tips. Last night there was also a Jack Sparrow double complete with Pirates costume and unmistakable swagger. Looked exactly like Johnny Deep. He was walking up the avenue before I could get a picture and I did not want to leave my wine and follow him. lol Back in the States I considered lunch at 11 am and by 5:30 pm I was starving if I had not already eaten. I actually splurged on Sarmiento Avenue last night and had grilled chicken, mashed potatoes, bread and 4 glasses of wine. (1 free glass with dinner and the smallest bottle contains 3 glasses) Best $14 I have spent on the trip including tip. Tonight there is free food at the hostel so I will get back on budget until tomorrow when I go on the bike and wine tasting ride. We leave at 9 am and visit 3 wineries while biking through the orchards. Leave it to the Argentines to think of drinking wine in the morning. When in Rome. After the 3rd winery we put our bikes back on the truck and take the shuttle back. Wise decision. Should get back around 2:30 in the afternoon. I have to move out of my room in the morning because my overnight bus to Bariloche leaves at 10:30 pm and we arrive in Bariloche around 2 the next evening. Double Decker bus with seats that lay completely down, meals and toilet. Kinda feel guilty for all the luxury but it is supposed to be the best way and most scenic way to see the Ruta 40.
December 8, 2010. (Bariloche, Argentina)
After a sixteen hour bus ride, I finally made it to Bariloche. There is a beautiful lake surrounded by mountains. Starting to really get a feel for Patagonia. I plan on leaving Saturday for a 28 hour bus ride to El Chalten where the scenery and hiking are supposed to be spectacular. Missing everyone at home. Hope all is well.
Thursday December 9, 2010. (Back to Basics)
Central America spoiled me with cheap transportation, inexpensive food and private rooms for $5. Just got back from supermarket where I bought food for next 3 days. Ham, bread, water and hot dogs will be my food for the next several days. For me to continue to travel I must make sacrifices and stay away from restaurants and fast food. Budget busters.
As beautiful as it is here, the wind has been blowing at least 50 mph since yesterday. Therefore biking and kayaking, the two most popular things to do, are out of the question for now. Will take some pictures of the town later. Kinda has that Swiss chalet town sorta of feel with chocolate specialty stores on every corner.
Been given bad news by backpacker who went to Ushuaia and did the cruise to Antarctica. While there is usually room for someone at the last minute do to a cancellation, the discounts are no longer down to $2500 for the cruise. More like $3500. Will have to do some soul searching.
Central America spoiled me with cheap transportation, inexpensive food and private rooms for $5. Just got back from supermarket where I bought food for next 3 days. Ham, bread, water and hot dogs will be my food for the next several days. For me to continue to travel I must make sacrifices and stay away from restaurants and fast food. Budget busters.
As beautiful as it is here, the wind has been blowing at least 50 mph since yesterday. Therefore biking and kayaking, the two most popular things to do, are out of the question for now. Will take some pictures of the town later. Kinda has that Swiss chalet town sorta of feel with chocolate specialty stores on every corner.
Been given bad news by backpacker who went to Ushuaia and did the cruise to Antarctica. While there is usually room for someone at the last minute do to a cancellation, the discounts are no longer down to $2500 for the cruise. More like $3500. Will have to do some soul searching.
December 11, 2010. (Bariloche to El Chalten)
For the 1st time in 48 hrs it is not raining, though there are the occasional snowflakes. I leave tonight (8 pm) on a bus for 28 hrs down the famed and rough Ruta 40. While the first 10 hrs will be in darkness, I am looking forward to some amazing scenery. I have secured the no. 1 seat on the top deck of the Double Decker bus and it will almost be like driving with a huge window in front of me seeing everything the driver sees except from above. I arrive at El Chalten at midnight. Not an ideal time to look for your hostel. El Chalten is home to Fitz Roy mountains and supposedly one of most beautiful sights in Patagonia. Hoping for good weather. Miss everyone back home but only heard from Beau in last 10 days. (hint) Can't ever seem to catch anyone on facebook.
For the 1st time in 48 hrs it is not raining, though there are the occasional snowflakes. I leave tonight (8 pm) on a bus for 28 hrs down the famed and rough Ruta 40. While the first 10 hrs will be in darkness, I am looking forward to some amazing scenery. I have secured the no. 1 seat on the top deck of the Double Decker bus and it will almost be like driving with a huge window in front of me seeing everything the driver sees except from above. I arrive at El Chalten at midnight. Not an ideal time to look for your hostel. El Chalten is home to Fitz Roy mountains and supposedly one of most beautiful sights in Patagonia. Hoping for good weather. Miss everyone back home but only heard from Beau in last 10 days. (hint) Can't ever seem to catch anyone on facebook.
December 13, 2010. (Hike to Fittz Roy from El Chalten)
I left at 9 am for the 8 hr hike to and back to the Fitz Roy lookout. The trek there was beautiful and mostly flat until the last hour which is straight up. But it was all worthwhile as you have the best view of Fitz Roy and the glacier lake at its foot. The trek back, however, was a different story. The 4 hr hike back to the hostel turned into 7 hours as I took the wrong trail and saw an entire part of the country that I was not expecting. Well marked trail, just the wrong one. lol
December 15, 2010 (El Chalten to El Calafate)
I caught the 7:30 am bus to El Calafate, starting point for most tours to the famous Perito Moreno Glacier. I found my hostel after walking around lost for about 30 minutes. The hostel is a little pricey ($15) for 4 bed dorm but the beds are NOT bunk beds and there is a private bathroom and TV in the room. Bought my tour ticket to see the glacier tomorrow. Hoping for same good weather as we are having today. Still can not get over the wind in Patagonia. There is ALWAYS a constant 50-60 mph wind with some gust actually knocking you down. It never stops. It also seems to come from every angle as I walked around the four sides of the hostel and the wind is just as bad on each side. Strange.
December 16, 2010. (ARGENTINA, Perito Moreno Glacier)
It was billed as one of the most beautiful and "must see" things to do in South America. Today I visited the glacier and it lived up to its reputation. I joined a tour which took us the 50 miles to the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. We left at 8:30 am and spent almost 4 hours viewing the glacier including a boat trip which took us right up next to the glacier. Everyone waited with anticipation hoping that there would be huge hunks of the glacier falling into the water but not this trip. Lots of rumbles however. The glacier is enormous. The glacier is as big as the entire city of Buenos Aires. The glacier is over 200 feet tall, 18 miles long and 3 miles wide.
December 17, 2010. (CHILE, Puerto Natales)
Just arrived in Puerto Natales, Chile which is the staging point for hiking the "W Circuit" in Torres del Paine whiich is supposed to be the most beautiful hiking in Patagonia. I am staying at Hostel Esmeralda which is a family run hostel which is worn but well kept and the least expensive in the area. I leave tomorrow for 6 nights and 7 days in Torres del Paine. The hostels are so expensive in the national park, $50 for a bed in an 8 bed dorm without sheets and blanket. (That is an extra $12 a night) I have opted to rent a sleeping bag for my dorm bed at $3 a day. I am also carrying in my food, spaghetti, bread and wine. All the essentials. Will not have internet so will post again when I return on December 24th. I asked about getting food on my return for Christmas but was advised that I will be eating with Crisobal and his family for Christmas. You meet great people when traveling who always make you feel at home. Having fun but missing the family. Love to all.
Just arrived in Puerto Natales, Chile which is the staging point for hiking the "W Circuit" in Torres del Paine whiich is supposed to be the most beautiful hiking in Patagonia. I am staying at Hostel Esmeralda which is a family run hostel which is worn but well kept and the least expensive in the area. I leave tomorrow for 6 nights and 7 days in Torres del Paine. The hostels are so expensive in the national park, $50 for a bed in an 8 bed dorm without sheets and blanket. (That is an extra $12 a night) I have opted to rent a sleeping bag for my dorm bed at $3 a day. I am also carrying in my food, spaghetti, bread and wine. All the essentials. Will not have internet so will post again when I return on December 24th. I asked about getting food on my return for Christmas but was advised that I will be eating with Crisobal and his family for Christmas. You meet great people when traveling who always make you feel at home. Having fun but missing the family. Love to all.
December 18, 2010. (CHILE, Torres del Paine)
I am getting very excited about hiking for 7 days through Torres del Paine. This is the major reason I came to South America. Will be staying in very expensive Refugios (shelters but essentially a hostel), at least I think. It costs around $50 a night for a bed in an 8 bed dorm without sheets or blankets. (that is extra $12 a night) So I will be renting a sleeping bag for my bed at $3 a night. Food is also about $20 a meal at the refugios so I will carry in as much food as possible. (spaghetti, bread, ham and wine) All the necessities. lol I have heard that the Circuit which involves camping and more days has better views but my camping skills are poor and therefore will still hope for some incredible scenery. Will not have Internet during the trekking but will be back at Esmeralda Hostel on Christmas Eve.
Arrived at hostel and found out there is no kitchen access so all of the spaghetti sauce and noodles in my backpack are useless. Have enough sandwich meat and bread for 2 days and then will start having to buy lunch ($14) and dinner ($17). A diet coke is $3 and Snickers is $4. Luckily I brought cookies and cake which I will eat for breakfast each day. Probably would have been cheaper camping but I am not the greatest outdoorsman. lol
I am getting very excited about hiking for 7 days through Torres del Paine. This is the major reason I came to South America. Will be staying in very expensive Refugios (shelters but essentially a hostel), at least I think. It costs around $50 a night for a bed in an 8 bed dorm without sheets or blankets. (that is extra $12 a night) So I will be renting a sleeping bag for my bed at $3 a night. Food is also about $20 a meal at the refugios so I will carry in as much food as possible. (spaghetti, bread, ham and wine) All the necessities. lol I have heard that the Circuit which involves camping and more days has better views but my camping skills are poor and therefore will still hope for some incredible scenery. Will not have Internet during the trekking but will be back at Esmeralda Hostel on Christmas Eve.
Arrived at hostel and found out there is no kitchen access so all of the spaghetti sauce and noodles in my backpack are useless. Have enough sandwich meat and bread for 2 days and then will start having to buy lunch ($14) and dinner ($17). A diet coke is $3 and Snickers is $4. Luckily I brought cookies and cake which I will eat for breakfast each day. Probably would have been cheaper camping but I am not the greatest outdoorsman. lol
December 18, 2010. (Torres del Paine)
Incredible experience hiking the W Circuit in Parque Nacional Torres del Paine in Chile. Stayed in Refugio's (hostel like but closer to hotel with bunk beds). The cost was about $45 a night without sheets and blanket which was extra $12 so I rented a sleeping bag for my bunk at $3 a day. Also there was no kitchen access so breakfast was $12, lunch was $14 and dinner was $17. Quite a little racket they have since they have a monopoly unless you are camping. But sometimes you have to pay to see those sights which are hard to get to and in great demand. Would have camped and cooked myself if I had known what I know now but regardless, it was one of those great hiking experiences.
Incredible experience hiking the W Circuit in Parque Nacional Torres del Paine in Chile. Stayed in Refugio's (hostel like but closer to hotel with bunk beds). The cost was about $45 a night without sheets and blanket which was extra $12 so I rented a sleeping bag for my bunk at $3 a day. Also there was no kitchen access so breakfast was $12, lunch was $14 and dinner was $17. Quite a little racket they have since they have a monopoly unless you are camping. But sometimes you have to pay to see those sights which are hard to get to and in great demand. Would have camped and cooked myself if I had known what I know now but regardless, it was one of those great hiking experiences.
December 19-24, 2010. (Trekking Torres del Paine)
Incredible 6 nights and 7 days in Parque Nacional Torres del Paine in Chile. Every day hiking had every type of weather imaginable. It was really windy every day but one. I mean anywhere from 30-60 mph constantly. Some gusts stronger than others but always constant. It gets dark around 10:30 pm and light around 4:30 am so there is plenty of daylight to hike. There was rain about half of the time but more of a light drizzle than a downpour. Good rain gear is essential. There was not a lot of hiking high in the mountains. Most of the hiking was up and down along the lakes with the occasional hike up to Los Torres, the French Valley and to see Glacier Grey. While many times the hikes up were painful they were not difficult by any means. If I had camped instead (which I probably should have), the hikes would have been more challenging and the views even more spectacular I have been told. The hiking and scenery was beautiful and fun regardless.
December 24-26th, 2010
Back in Puerto Natales in time for Christmas and the much änticipated Christmas Eve Dinner. The backpacker cost was only $10 and that included Lamb (my 1st experience EVER) , various vegetables and unlimited wine. What I am not accustomed to us eating dinner late in the evening which is a Spanish tradition. It was almost 11 pm when dinner was served, I think. Remember there was unlimited wine and only a few snacks to hold us over until dinner. It was an amazing meal and seems the hostel owner was also a Chef.
December 26, 2010. (ARGENTINA, Ushuai)
I caught the 7:30 am bus to Ushuai . About 6 hours of this journey was on gravel/dirt highways. We also had one ferry crossing. I arrived at 7:30 pm and located the FREE Style Hostel. Checked the nearby travel agency looking for inexpensive, last minute Antarctica trip. I was told to check back tomorrow.
December 27, 2010.
I was waiting for an opportunity to do the January 1st cruise to Antarctica for $3149 but it seems someone else booked the last spot. I decided to go the the December 28th departure for $3990. Not happy about it but much less than the typical cost of $10,000 and it is a "Once in a lifetime experience ". I also booked a $197 flight from Ushuai to Buenos Aires on my return. The flight is 4 hours and the bus to Buenos Aires was 50 hours AND $250. NO BRAINER. Antarctica departure tomorrow.
WILL CONTINUE ANTARCTICA and SOUTH AMERICA, Part 2 in SECTION 6
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