SECTION 7. (2012 TRAVELS)

CHAPTER 17.   GUATEMALA, continued and EL SALVADOR.  (December 14, 2011 -February 27, 2012)

January 26, 2012. 

Everything fell into place just as I was about to give up on a Philippines trip. American Airlines credited me with enough miles for a FREE trip from San Salvador, El Salvador to Los Angeles. (even though it involves 18.5 hrs to get to Los Angeles) What we do from free trips. Then I get on a plane 2.5 hrs later for the 19 hrs involved getting to Manila via Tokyo.

But really excited as Boracay Beach is one of most beautiful beaches in world. Ranked 2nd by many. Also the underground river is on the New 7 Natural Wonders of the World. Add the steepest rice terraces in the world and swimming with Whale Sharks and I am expecting an awesome trip. Just need to get my new credit cards before my trip. Old ones canceled due to cloning. But will work it out. 2 more weeks in San Pedro, then to Antigua for few days to see friends, then to Playa Tunco, El Salvador for remainder of my trip before heading to the Philippines. 

This trip will give me the excitement that I have been missing in not seeing new places which is my passion. Will return on April 24th and then work on Backpacker Travel and guided trips to Ireland in late May/early June. Then Costa Rica and Guatemala trips during summer.

February 4, 2012

After a great stay in San Pedro since December, I will be leaving Thursday for a few days in Antigua. Then to the beach in El Salvador for 2 weeks at Playa Tunco. Then on to San Salvador for my marathon plane rides to the Philippines which will involve about 33 hrs of travel. Starting to get excited about new destinations and new experiences which is what drives my travel obsession. Will definitely be back to San Pedro as it is truly beautiful and one of the cheapest places to live in the world.

EL SALVADOR 

February 13,  2012.   (PLAYA EL TUNCO)

5 hour shuttle from Antigua, Guatemala to Playa El Tunco,  El Salvador.  The border crossing was not too difficult this time.  Sometimes if there is a large bus already waiting it can take what seems like forever.I am staying at the Tunco Lodge which is near the beach. Splurged on private room since I will be in dorms for 2 months in Philippines. My room has shared bathroom but 2 beds and fan for $15 a night. Also have a fridge and hammock on my balcony. Great pool here and wifi.

February 14, 2012

Spent the evening watching the surfers and sunset with most of the other backpackers sipping a cool one. Especially enjoyed the dog retrieving a ball over and over in the ocean and riding a surf board. Loving the beach life.

February 15, 2012.   (Chicken bus to La Libertad)

To get back on a reasonable budget I had to take the chicken bus to La Libertad which is the closest town that has a supermarket. The 20-30 minute ride was only 25 cents. El Salvador does not receive many tourists yet and it is amazing to see all the people who stare while u are riding the bus. But a quick smile and they smile back and everything seems right. The supermarket was large and really nice, actually the best one I have been in while traveling thru Central America. Felt like a kid in a candy store and bought too much but still cheaper than eating out even though two large burritos is only $3 in a restaurant. 

February 19, 2012.  (Busy weekend)

As expected, the hordes of weekenders from San Salvador arrived at Playa El Tunco. Will be happy tomorrow when I have most of the beach and pool to myself and the backpackers here. Very hot but the pool compensates for that. Each day is beach walk, dip in pool, lunch, siesta, pool, watch the sunset with cold cerveza and dinner. Rinse and repeat. This will be my "Groundhog Day" until I board the plane to Manila, Philippines.

Did meet some locals while watching sunset. Cute girl but she never quit talking. Had to be 30 minutes straight on 1 breath.

Note: Will be in 6 different airports on my trip to Manila with about 33 hours of plane and airport time before I arrive.

February 26, 2012

Big surf competition today. Beach was packed with surfers and onlookers. Did not take pictures but really enjoyed watching all the talented surfers, especially the women. Unfortunately that led to lots of loud music at clubs and did not get to sleep until around 3 am. My fan was not loud enough to eliminate the music next door. 39 hr travel marathon begins tomorrow at 2 pm.

While looking at potential hostels in Philippines, I now realize that like my previous trip to Asia most do not have kitchen facilities usually because food on street is so cheap. But gotta figure out how to get hot water for my instant coffee in my backpack.

2/27/12

Leave at 10 am to head to the San Salvador airport to begin my 39-40 hr marathon of airlines and airports. Should arrive in Manila about 10 pm Tuesday if there are no hitches. Looking forward to visiting a new country, especially since it has so much too offer. Be home April 24th.

Note: Washed what few clothes I am carrying yesterday which include swim shorts and 1 pr. zip off leg hiking pants. Got blood on my good pair of hiking shorts from a scratch first thing this morning. Oh well.

CHAPTER 18.  PHILIPPINES (February 27 - April 24th)

February 27-29th, 2012.  Flight and Manila

After approximately 45 hrs of airplanes and airports I arrived in Manila at 10pm on 2/29/12. Got through immigration in less than 1 minute and customs in 15 seconds which has to be a world record. Miami took almost 2 hours for the same process.

Unfortunately i had forgotten about the international date line when i booked my hostel and was a little upset when I was told I had already missed my first night which I also had to pay for. But as I know well, it is not if something will happen while traveling but when. You just have to smile and make the best of it. The small price for traveling around the world.

Was not prepared for the karoake until 4 am at bars on the street. That is another price of staying in the young hip area when booking. 6 bed dorm but only 1 other roommate who came in around 4 am. Looked like he had been SINGING karoake all night. lol

Must extend my visa while in Manila. The country gives us a free 21 day visa but you can extend it for another 38 days for a fee making the total stay 59 days. My return flight is April 24th which will keep me in the country for 55 days.

Will visit Manila downtown area and Manila Bay while walking from the hostel to Immigration to get my visa taking care of. Then perhaps overnight bus to Banaue which has the steepest rice terraces in the world. Hopefully I will be able to post great pictures while on the trip.

Sidenote: Continually speaking what little Spanish I know. Don't know how many times I have said buenos dias or gracias since I started the airplane portion of the trip.

March 1, 2012.   (Visa Extension Nightmare, more pain in ass than nightmare)

Walked almost an hour downtown in the Philippine heat to get my visa extension and save a few dollars. When I finally found the Immigration Office a sign said must not have on flip flops and shorts to get in. Which is my wardrobe of choice always.

Luckily a young entrepreneur walked up to me and asked if I would like to rent some sweat pants and a pair of shoes for $5. In no position to argue I agree. It took almost 2 hrs to get my 38 day extension and cost $80 including the $5 i paid the kid outside but at least it is over. Of course , then there was the hour walk at noon in the Philippine heat to get back to hostel but as I always say, "I have more time than money."

March 2, 2012.   (Overnight bus to Banaue)

Will leave on 9 pm overnight bus for 9 hr. ride to Banaue to see the steepest rice terraces in the world. Was really impressed in 2008 at the Longii Terraces in China so can't wait to see these. Will visit several spots and do hiking around the villages and rice terraces. 

March 3, 2012.   (Viewpoints of Banaue Terraces and Patao terraces)

After the long bus and arriving at 6 am, checked into the Peoples Inn. Nice private room/shared bath with 2 bed for only 300 pesos ($7.50) a night. Then hiked 1 hr up to the viewpoints instead of taking the $5 motorcycle with sidecar. Incredible views which I will post when have free internet again. In the afternoon I took a tour in the moto tryke to see the beautiful valley terraces in Patao. 1.5 hr ride on the worst roads that I have ever been on. That sidecar does not have shocks not that it would have mattered. Could hardly walk the next day. Beautiful views of the Banaue Terraces sitting on the restaurants terrace. Finally crashed after being up for 36 hrs at 6 pm.

March 4, 2012.  (Batad Terraces)

After good nights rest, decided to go to Batad and visit what are supposedly the most spectacular amphitheatre terraces in the world. I met another backpacker and we went up to the Batad saddle by jeepney and then walked the additional 40 minutes to Batad. Truly is beautiful but little disappointed because the rice has not matured a lot yet so not real green at this point. I have seen the pictures though and its setup is spectacular. Hiked to the waterfall and the hike up was vicious. Straight up , probably 2000 ft. Also had to walk through the rice terraces to get there on the retaining stone walls which keep the water in. Everyone tried to be your guide and would give little info on exactly how to get there but I made it.

March 5, 2012.   (Hike Batad to Bataan and bus ride to Banaue)

One of best hikes ever. Took Lonely Planets advice and did the hike from Batad to Bataan to catch the bus back to Banaue. Got lost in the beginning because the paths follow the retaining wall stones and it is hard to tell which is the path. After getting lost a few times and stepping INTO a rice paddy and getting one shoe muddy, I found the path. From there it was just 2.5 hrs of spectacular rice paddies and terraces. When I made it to the road I saw a local bus coming and stopped it. I climbed inside and it was full so I had to stand. The bus takes about 1.5 hours to get to Banaue. After the first stop, I asked if I could climb on top with 5 other locals who were already up there. He said yes reluctantly. With my backpack on top and my feet hanging off the side off we went. I know this road can not be near as dangerous as the "Death Road" but many places we went it seemed almost exactly like it. At some spot there was just only an extra 6-12 inches of road for the wheels to make it and the dropoff was at least 1500 ft. down. I was a bit terrified the first few times I looked between my feet and there was no road but a sheer drop off.

Then it became amusing and exciting and I had the best time. My back was turned from the front of the truck most of the time until the first limb almost knocked me off. Good thing I started paying attention because as we got to civilization, we had to duck over 50 electrical lines. Seriously, we had to lay down completely on a few occasions and twice the cable still touched my back. One of my best trips ever. Got back and cleaned up, bought bus ticket to Manila and leave at 7 pm for the 9 hr. ride.

March 6, 2012.   (Banaue to Manila to Legaspi)

Arrived from Banaue at 2:30 am and caught taxi to Arenata Bus terminal to catch the 5:30 "ordinary" bus, no air con to Legaspi. Cheap room at $5 a night for fan and tv (hbo) but really hot. Leave in the morning for Donsol for beach time and to swim with Whale Sharks.

March 8, 2012.   (Manta Ray Bowl)

Went diving for the 1st time in 2 years to try and see the Manta Rays at the cleansing station in the Manta Ray Bowl. This is a location where the current allows them to remove the parasites. (something like that) Unfortunately we had no luck seeing any Mantas but did get 3 more dives under my belt. May try again or wait for the ship wrecks on Caron.

March 9, 2012.   (Swimming with Whale Sharks)

Hopeful that today's whale shark adventure is more successful than yesterday's manta ray bowl dives. Luckily we did see and swim with 2 enormous whale sharks which are in actuality fish.

We sat on the edge of the boat until the skipper and leader of our group said to jump in. They have a spotter on a flagstaff looking for large shadows in the water. It was a great experience but after second time I had enough. While the regulations say only 6 people per whale shark, when one is spotted EVERYONE goes in the water towards the shark. Sometimes 20-30 swimmers.

FUNNY

While on the 45 minute walk from the Whale Shark Interaction Center, 6 teenagers on motorcycles stopped and asked me if I wanted a ride. I told them I was just exercising when in reality I was saving $1 instead of using the moto tricycle. They asked me where I was from and when I said Louisiana, they started singing almost simultaneously, "When I was a little bitty baby my momma rocked me in the craddle, in those ole cotton fields back home. I was born in Lousiana, just a few miles from Texarkana..............................." I could not help but laugh. Then they said they had to go. They were on a journey to the center of the earth. It will take a few days to disseminate all this information and come to a conclusion. lol I have noticed in the mountain villages that the older people have a preference and it is almost constant, 1950's to 1980's Country Music. 

My other favorite thing to do here is walk. Almost every child will say "Whats your name." Then they tell you theirs. I am guessing it is to practice their English, but they truly love Americans and will engage you in conversation whenever possible. After being asked my name, I asked a little girl her name and she said "Miley Cyrus". The Filipinos love to be inventive when picking out names. I heard of another whose name was Chivas Regal. At least in Donsol, the friendliest people I have ever met in the world.

March 10, 2012.   (Headed to Masbate)

Realized that the only boat this week from Mandaon, Masbate to Panay Island is Sunday so have to take the jeepney to Pilar and fast boat to Masbate town today or wait a week. Arrived in Masbate Town and caught a minivan to Mandaon. Straight to the Coast Guard office at the dock and checked on boats. No boats going to Roxas City where I had planned but will go instead to Estancia and bus a little further to Caticlan to catch the boat to Boracay.

Then started looking for a room for the night. A guy in the shuttle had mentioned a hotel but that it was $25 a night. After looking all over town I saw a sign at a grocery store that said lodging. I was only $3.50 a night but is in my bottom 5 on all time lodging places. I was the only one in what should have been a condemned house. There were no locks on my door and lucky to have a door as many didn't. Don't even want to talk about the bathroom. But had a fan, clean sheets and was really tired so made the best of it.

March 11, 2012.   (Mandaorn to Boracay Island)

Caught the 7 am "pump" boat to Estancia for the 4 hr ride with about 20 passengers and lots of cargo. Started out inside the boat but the fresh air and beautiful weather convinced me to climb on top. That was great for a few about 1.5 hrs until the rain and large waves started seriously rocking the boat. That is when the 4 hr ride turned into a 6.5 hour ride. Arrived in Estancia around 1:45 pm and then caught a minivan to Roxas City, then another minivan to Kailbo, then another minivan to Leticlan, then a 15 minute boat ride to Boracay Island, then a 15 minute tricycle ride to Frendz Resort where I have a reservation in 2 WEEKS.

Since my plans checked so quickly and did not have internet, I was unable to make a reservation at Frendz, which is the cheapest and best backpacker establishment. He told me there were no rooms available but that he would have an opening in 2 days and then I would be set for a month. Down the street I go with my backpack and no idea where to look. Place after place was $40 to $60 and this was at the cheapest looking places. I finally went back to Blue Bayou, ironic, and took the $37 room with private bath, tv and fan and free breakfast. The fact that I had not eaten a real meal in 24 hrs was adding to the problem. They only had a room for the night so will do this again on Monday.

If this had not happened many times before I would not be happy but part of the job.

March 12, 2012.   (New room plans)

Since there is no availability in the dorm at Frenz Resort tonight must still find other accommodations. Also, just found out Frendz does not have a pool which it lists as an amenity. This along with the cheap price are the two biggest factors why I chose it.

Luckily I found a great spot right by the beach with a private room/private bath, cable tv and air con for only $2.50 a night more than Frenz dorm. I know it is still $2.50 but as I get a little older my backpacking skills seem to be fading. lol 30 days in a dorm in Frenz was probably pushing the envelope. So I will do 15 days in private room at Bonzai Resort and then 10 days in dorm at Frenz. Chance to reinvigorate my youthful soul and share that great hostel vibe which I love, even though it comes with a certain loss privacy in the dorm.

March 13, 2012.   (Boracay Beach)

Boracay Beach is incredibly beautiful, especially with all the sailboats, but the water has lots of seaweed. The beach walk where all the hotels, restaurants and bars are located is really busy all the time. There are many different restaurants of all price ranges from $1 to $9 unlimited seafood buffet. I still think that 3 mile beach on Koh Lanta in Thailand is still my favorite. There are sooo many tourists here and most are Asian. Move today to Bonzai Resort for 15 days ($17 day) including private room with bath and air con. Only 30 seconds to beach.

March 14, 2012.   (Purchased airline tickets to Palawan and then to Manila)

Spent most of morning checking airline prices to Puerto Princessa , Palawan for the end of my journey. I will have to shuttle to Kalibo from Boracay (2 hrs) but the plane ticket was only $79. I then found a ticket to Manila from Puerto Princessa on April 23rd for only $52. I had planned on leaving Boracay on April 9th but will spend a few extra days in Paradise to save big bucks on the airfare.

Note: Think I am becoming addicted to Mango Fruit Shakes ($1)

3/19/12.   (Eating on Boracay Beach)

The beach is lined with All You Can Eat Buffets for $10 to $15 including amazing fresh seafood. I pass them everyday on my way to the cheaper eateries that I frequent which include Andok's which has amazing BBQ pork skewers (2) with rice for $1.33. Places like this allow me to travel and spend 2 months in Paradise, the Philippine version.

Some of the things that I am amazed by is how impossible it is to find a knife. There is usually a large spoon, which they use for a knife and spoon, and a fork for pushing the rice into the spoon and spearing vegetables. A large amount of rice comes with everything, including BACON AND EGGS for breakfast which I find a little strange. But I am in the majority, with most tourists coming from South Korea and China (80%), Aussies (10%), Germans (5%) and then a wide variety with only a few Americans.

(6) Ways To Avoid Street/Beach Vendors

1. NEVER make eye contact.

2. NEVER talk to them even to say NO.

3. NEVER stop walking.

4. NEVER get them wet.

5. NEVER feed them after midnight.

6. Put a bright light on them, they hate bright lights.

Okay, last 3 are from Gremlins Movie, but first 3 work. Lol

March 27, 2012.   (Creature of habit, for now)

Have become a creature of habit for now. 6:45 am walk to bakery for 1/2 price day old banana muffins, then coffee, then walk up and down the beach. TV when it gets too hot to be in the sun. Lunch at Andok's for $1.30, then 20 minutes of beach time in hot sun, more TV, then dinner at Andok's for $1.30. Afternoon mango shake and final walk on beach. Occasionally, twice a week, will go for a couple of happy hour beers. Final walk around the beach at night to watch all the people mulling over which All U Can Eat Buffet to choose.

While not exciting, I am not on vacation but simply living on an incredible beach as inexpensively as possible and still having a good time.

Move to dorm at Frenz on March 29th for 11 days to save a little more money. Gonna miss my private room but will enjoy the hostel lifestyle as always. April 12th I move to Palawan Island for new adventure and final leg of this trip.

March 29, 2012.   (Moving to hostel) 

Moving to Frenz to stay in dorm for next 11 days at P600 ($14) a day. Have gotten lazy staying in private room all this time and also miss the companionship that u get at a hostel. But will miss my own tv and room. Will move back to Bonzai Resort after busy Easter holidays on April 9th for my last 4 days on Boracay Beach and then to Palawan Island to finish up my trip. Then will get busy planning guided trip to Costa Rica the 1st part of June.

April 9, 2012.   (Back to Bonzai Resort)

After 11 days in dorm, moved back to Bonzai Resort for some privacy, cable tv and air con since it is so hot in middle of day. That is when I catch up on all tv. Leave on 12th to fly to Puerto Princessa on Palawan Island. Really excited about spending my final 12 days there.

April 12, 2012.   (Puerto Princessa, Palawan)

Long day. Got up and left at 6 am for 2 hr shuttle ride to Kalibo to catch a plane to Puerto Princessa via Manila. Had to wait at Manila airport for 5 hrs for connecting flight and then 1 hot hour on tarmac waiting for weather change (humidity) in Puerto Princessa. Found the Dallas Inn (hostel) easily and luckily I am only one in 8 bed dorm, so got cheap price ($7) and have private room. Happens more than people think. Will catch a shuttle to El Nido at 6:30 am for what is supposed to be 5-7 hr shuttle instead of the bus which is 9 hrs. Paid more but want to get there early and find a good place to stay for the 10 days I will be there. Really excited about this part of the journey. Will bus back though and save the extra $5 I am spending on the shuttle. The last 2 weeks will fly by as always but ready to see the family, especially Kade and Madison.

April 13, 2012.   (El Nido, Palawan)

Finally made it after a rough 7 hr. shuttle van ride from Puerto Princessa. Interesting group in van included several Chinese, couple from Japan, Italian guy and his girlfriend from Spain and of course myself, the odd American that few travelers ever see. While there are people from the States traveling the numbers are small compared to our population. For some reason people guess that I am from NZ or Australia. I guess the US is not even an option. lol

Spent an hour hiking the beach looking for that perfect, inexpensive room on the beach. Finally found a nice place which has a private room/shared bath downstairs for 500 pesos ($11.75) a night. My room is upstair next to restaurant and bar which have incredible view of bay. The real reason to be here is island hopping and viewing the sunset which I plan on doing in 2 hrs. San Miguel Light (beer) may be invited also. 

April 14, 2012.   (El Nido)

Have researched all the restaurants and happy hours and have pretty good idea where I will be eating each meal and where I will be at sunset. Funny today when I realize it was cheaper to buy (2) 8 ounce mango shakes than (1) 16 ounce shake. Saved 15 pesos by order the 2 smaller. Also, funny watching several dozen eggs tied down on the hood of a packed jeepney going down the road. Tomorrow I go on a boat tour to several islands for snorkeling. The day boat trips are why you come here. 9am till 4 pm and includes snorkle gear and BBQ lunch for about $20. El Nido is not spectacular as far as beaches but the surrounding islands are not supposed to be rivaled by anyone. We will see. Posting a few random shots of the town and karst (limestone) cliffs surrounding El Nido.

April 15, 2012.    (Island Hopping Tour C)

1st island hopping tour which included Mantiloc Shrine, Secret Beach, Hidden Beach, Cadlao Lagoon and Tapuitan Island in that order. There was also an incredible lunch prepared by the crew which consisted of fish, including red snapper, shrimp, pork, squid, rice and mangos.

April 17, 2012.   (Island Hopping Tour A)

Best tour so far. Visited Secret Lagoon, Big and Small Lagoon, Shimizu Island, Intalula Island and 7 Commando Beach. Great snorkeling, great lunch cooked on beach and some beautiful beaches to lounge on. Great group including couple from South Korea, couple from Spain and several Filipinos who were vacationing. And the one odd American. I am always questioned if I am from Australia. Not sure why , Mate.

April 20, 2012.   (Winding down, birthday weekend)

Ate at one of the expensive restaurants and had pizza last night, fish and chips tonight and will eat there again tomorrow. Have decided to treat myself after 4.5 months of backpacking and have some nice food to celebrate my birthday weekend. Also, only place I can use my credit card and want to save up pesos for the final few days and final expenses such as exit fees which will be as much as P1000. More about saving pesos and using my credit card as it is treating myself. Can't believe this journey is ending but excited about seeing the grandkids and family.

April 22, 2012.   (Farewell El Nido, hello Puerto Princessa)

Caught the 9 am shuttle van to Puerto Princessa and arrived in a quick 5 hrs. Checked back into the Dallas Inn dorm and will catch the 10am flight in the morning to Manila. Have not decided whether to get a hostel dorm bed for the remaining night or not. There is a hostel near the airport but reports of bed bugs have me thinking of just toughing it out at the airport. My flight Tuesday morning is at 6 am and I need to be at the airport at least by 3 am anyway. Make that decision tomorrow. Can't believe this journey is ending. Thinking back, I have been traveling 7.5 months of the last 9.5 months. Need some serious quality family time to rejuvenate me. Missing everybody and new sights and new friends are no substitute for family. If only they could travel with me always.

"Traveling in the company of those we love is Home in Motion." Leigh Hunt

April 23rd and 24th, 2012.   (Going Home)

Caught the 10 am flight from Puerto Princessa to Manila except it left at 11am. Thought about whether to stay overnight at airport for 6 am flight or get cheap hostel near airport. At first decided to stay at airport and then was told I could not get my boarding pass and go to restaurant area until 3 am so got a taxi and headed to cheap hostel. Pretty close and only paid $2 for a taxi to get there. Dorm was full so paid $9 for private room but will not sleep more than couple of hours because going by taxi at 2 am to get ready and make sure everything is smooth at airport. Going to see the family and excited. But also know that when the grandchildren quit paying attention to me it will be time to head out for another adventure. Really no reason to stay home if not spending quality time with Kade and Madison. Too expensive just to stay in Natchez and do nothing. Maybe will get travel business started but will definitely be on limited scale as I have big plans this fall and winter.

GREAT AND LONG TRIP INCLUDING GUATEMALA,  EL SALVADOR & PHILIPPINES 

CHAPTER 19.   IRELAND, SCOTLAND, ITALY, CROATIA &  MONTENEGRO, TURKEY & EGYPT (September 19 - October 21st)

September 19, 2012  (Flight to Shannon, Ireland)

Arrived at NO airport at 12:30 am and settle in for long night. Was able to check in and get boarding pass at 3:30 am and got a notice that the Newark to Shannon, Ireland leg had been overbooked. It asked if I would like to volunteer my seat, if needed, for a $400 travel voucher. If so, to give the info to the gate official in Newark. As soon as I arrived in Newark I gave the gate official my info and said I would volunteer for the $400 travel voucher, new ticket to Shannon, hotel room ($100) and food vouchers ($30). They needed 2 volunteers and I was fortunate enough to be one of those. Got my vouchers and headed to Crowne Plaza. Was also able to extend my checkout until 3:15 pm to reduce my wait at the airport. Would definitely volunteer again and swap 1 night of travel for $400 in travel vouchers and free food and place to stay. Leave at 7 pm on Septemer 20 and arrive at 7 am in the morning. Also got exit row seat with extra leg room for no extra charge. Life is good. 

Sept. 20, 2012

Arrived around 11:30 am at Cliffs of Moher after 5.5 hrs on plane, 2 buses and 2 hr wait in bus station. While the Cliffs of Moher are always breathtaking, the sun did not provide the light I was hoping for. Will go back late this afternoon and try again. Also, some of the "closed" paths I took when I was here in 2007 are seriously closed now and no longer accessible. The best views are from the closed path but they are building a new path but it looks like at least 3-6 months before it will be completed. Hope to post pictures later this evening unless the "pub" begins calling. lol

September 22, 2012.   (IRELAND,  Inis Meain)

Great day visiting Inis Meain, one of the Aran Islands. There are only about 150 residents there but luckily one is a friend of mine, Anamaria Connelly, who also served as my guide for my visit today. We walked for about 2 hrs around the entire island and the scenery was breathtaking. The absolute solitude of the island is magic. Really amazed by all the rock fences for the livestock. Rocks are a necessity as there are only 3 trees on the island and even the sod was brought in since most of the island is rock.There are also views of the Cliffs of Moher but Inis Meain has its own cliffs and they are also spectacular. Ended the afternoon with a couple of pints of Guiness. Seriously was better than I remembered but Anamaria that is because the best Guiness in Ireland was here. Caught the 4:30 ferry to Galway. 

September 23, 2012.   (IRELAND,  Galway)

Arrived in Galway yesterday around 7 pm after ferry ride from Inis Meain and 1 hr bus ride. Staying at Sleepzone Hostel which is very close to Eyre Square. Will walk around and take pictures today and post later. Dublin tomorrow. Will defintely have to reintroduce myself to McDonals today to get back on budget. I see the Euro Menu (their Dollar Menu) in my future to get back on budget. At about $6.25 for a pint of Guiness sacrifices have to be made. lol  Finished off last evening in Galway with a couple of pints of Bulmers Cider in the Latin Quarter. Last picture is of the Spanish Arch.

September 24, 2012.   (IRELAND,  Galway)

Loved Galway, had 2 pints of Bulmers Cider in Latin Quarter yesterday but it did not help me sleep with "SNORING GUY" registering an 8.5 on the Richter Scale. The 4 of us who could not sleep convinced the guy at the night desk to let us move to an empty dorm. Much appreciaed. Wonder what "SNORING GUY" thought when he woke up this morning to a room all by himself. lol

I took the City Link bus instead of Bus Eirean because it was 4 euros cheaper and had bathroom and wifi. Unfortunately it was raining and does not look to let up anytime soon. I have seen the tourist sites before so will blog today and catch a pint later. Hopefully the weather will clear up before my flight to Edinburgh, Scotland tomorrow evening. I have all day tomorrow to revisit Trinity College and other pioints of interest.

This trip is NOT representative of future guided trips because my time here is limited and I am doing some things I have not done before. Skipping Killarney (my favorite), and Kilkenny. For more of the typical sights check out my 2007 Ireland viist at billpassman.blogspot.ie  or go to my blogs at bpassman.blogspot.com

Minus all the hiking I did on the Kerry Way, that will be done by Tour Bus.

Walked to Temple Bar District for a pint of the good stuff, some Irish music and to take a few pictures.
Lots of signs promoting Oktoberfest in Temple Bar. Seems like a sign for me to go to Munich.

September 25, 2012.  (IRELAND,  Dublin)

Decided to walk around and take some pictures on my last "real" day in Dublin. (will fly back in on 29th but spend the night in airport before flying to Venice) Took pictures around Dublin City Centre especially the Liffey River, Trinity College, Grafton Street, St. Stephens Green and Dublin Castle. Did not go in to see the Book of Kells today as I have seen it before and it is amazing but also 9 euro ($11.25) But suggest that anyone who has opportunity to see it, see it. Google it and see the amazing pictures and history.

Flight to Edinburgh, Scotland

The flight to Edinburg, Scotland on Ryanair ($65 RT) was easier than I expected. No specific seats so just grab a seat. Flight was only 45 minutes. The hardest part for me traveling is getting from the airport to the hostel/budget hotel inexpensively. Luckily, hostelworld gives great directions from the bus, train or airport to any specific accommodation. The airport is about 45 minutes from the city center but a city bus ride for $3 and I was at the hostel in no time. It was still raining when we landed though and I did have a short walk in the rain but had an umbrella. Checked in about 10 pm.

September 26, 2012.  Edinburgh, Scotland

Weather much nicer this morning, no rain. Signed up for a trip to the Scottish Highlands and Loch Ness for tomorrow. I will leave on a bus with tour guide at 8 am and return 8 pm. Will cover a lot of Scotland. Afterwards, I walked to Colten Hill to get a better view of the city, then went to Princess Gardens, and Edinburg Castle ($25 ouch). Sunshine most of day and the castle was impressive.

September 27, 2012.   (Highlands Bus Tour)

Due to my limited time in Scotland, I was forced into a 12 hr bus tour of the Scottish Highlands that included Glencoe, Fort Williams and Loch Ness. It did allow me to see a lot of Scotland in a short time. Over 350 miles during the day with several stops. Great Tour.

September 28, 2012.  (Holyrood Oark)

Beautiful day so walked to climb up to Arthur's Chair in Holyrood park which gives great views of city.

September 29th and 30th, 2012.   (Edinburgh to Dublin to Venice, Italy)

Quite a couple of days which included spending all night and getting no sleep in Dublin Airport. Arrived in Venice at 11 am. I took the airport bus to the Mestre Train Station which is very close to my hostel. The hostel was nice and only a 10 minute train ride to the center of Venice. I immediately left the hostel to take advantage of the beautiful weather. I could easily have taken the water taxi to St. Marks Square but if you know me I walked the long way around, enjoyed the scenery and saved some coin. lol

4 hours of seeing the sights and getting seriously lost, like always and like everyone else I had enough and went back to the hostel for a good nights sleep and early morning (9 am) train to Riomaggiore in Cinque Terre. Can not get over how many tourists were there at end of September. It was packed. 70 degree weather but can not imagine more people and 90 degree weather.

October 1, 2012.  (Riomaggiore in Cinque Terre, 5 villages)

6 hr train ride from Venice was nice and I napped a little as I usually do on trains. There was a drizzle when I arrived so a little disappointed. Was told the hiking trail was closed so a little more disappointed. But checked into the dorm at the hostel and met a nice Japanese girl who was traveling for 1 years around the world. So we talked for a while about travel and things got better. Went to grab a pizza, free internet and wine at the restaurant and things got a lot better. Really a beautiful , special place but is so pricey now. They can't all stay hidden gems forever. I remember when I read about this place before my 2006 trip in Rick Steves' guide book. He said he almost hesitated even mentioning it because he knew the outcome of many travelers finding this. 

October 1st and 2nd, 2012.   (CINQUE TERRE boat ride between villages)

Had plans on spending two nights in Riomaggiore and hiking the Cinque Terre (5 villages) National Park path which follows the coastline above the 5 villages and is a very beautiful 6 hr walk. The path leads from Riomaggiore to Maranola to Corniglia to Vernazza and ends up in Monterosso. In 2006 I hiked the trail but ended at Vernazza. I was told on my arrival that the trails were closed due to a land slide. Several others told me the same including a lady in the tourist office. So I canceled one night and just enjoyed the scenery and made plans to take the boat ride the next day from Vernazza to Riomaggiore to truly appreciate the beauty of the villages from the sea.  Unfortunately I found out as I was leaving Cinque Terre that only the easier coastal path had been closed. Travel has a way of changing plans with or without your approval sometimes.

October 2-6th, 2012.   (ITALY,  Florence)

Have seen most of the sights and museums on my 2006 but always loved Florence. So came back to just do nothing. Have loved every minute. The city of almost 372,000 is pristine, beautiful and QUIET. I have tried to figure out what I love so much about here and it just seems quieter than most cities. People talk quieter, there seems to be less traffic and there is a reverence that seems to surround the city. Almost as though they did not want anyone else to know they are here. Each evening I do my favorite thing and that is to go to Piazzle Michelangelo that overlooks the city and watch the sunset. It is truly magical.

October 6, 2012.   ( Ferry to Dubrovnik, Croatia)

Had to catch the 5:50 am train from Florence to Rome, change trains in Rome to Bari, Italy. Arrived at 12:45 pm and tried to catch a bus to the ferry port. Took the 20 bus and 30 minutes later realized I had done the same thing 6 years earlier. Should have taken the 20/ bus. Got back to my origin, the train station, and took the 20/ bus and was dropped off a Jradrolinija Ferry dock where they no longer have a ticket office. I purchased my ticket online and therefore needed my reservation printed out. Was told there was a free shuttle at 5 pm to the new ticket office. The ferry does not leave until 10 pm and we can not board until 8 pm so lot of waiting. To make matters worse i got there at 5 pm and found out they would not open until 6:30 pm. That is when Peroni Beer got involved. Got boarded and started looking for place to spend the night. All the couches where most backpackers stay now have boards in the couches providing only individual seats and not allowing a way to lay down. They are determined to make u buy a sleeper. Found a comfortable recliner and watched tv as long as it was in English. Then found a comfortable piece of carpet in a less trafficked hallway. Worked out and slept till 4:30 am and we landed around 7 am. 1st off the boat and found the hostel without too much difficulty.     

October 7, 2012.  (CROATIA,  Dubrovnik,  the hike)

Spent most of day walking around and getting used to "old town", the enclosed walled portion. When I arrived at 7:30 am it was like a ghost time but as the cruise people arrived it was chaos. People everywhere. I went back to the room and chilled and then thought about taking the tram to the mountain overlooking Dubrovnkik. I read that some take the tram up at only 60% of the $12.50 price and walk down a trail back to "Old Town". I decided to save the entire amount and walked up and back down. Took less then 2 hrs and I can always use the exercise, plus the views were spectacular.

NOTE: On my arrival at the "Old Town" they were filming a new series called GAME OF THRONES. I had never heard of it. Update: I now know that Dubrovnik was used as a location for "Kings Landing" in the GOT series.

October 8, 2012.   (Day trip to MONTENEGRO)

Decided on a full day tour to Montenegro and leave at 8:30 am. It is only one hour from Dubrovnik to the Montenegro border and only a little further to Kotor, our first stop. Kotor is draped along the beautiful Dalmation Coast and its "old town" has walls that go from the sea to the top of the mountain. Unfortunately my camera had not recovered yet from the water spill incident so I will be relying on some of the others on the tour for photos later. After a few hrs there we drove on down the Dalmatian Coast and I was truly amazed at its beauty. Possibly the bluest waters I have ever seen. (Antarctica was pretty blue also) Our final destination was Budva which is the hub of commercialism in Montenegro and favorite playing ground of rich Russians. There are only 17,000 people living there but 500 are millionaires, mostly Russians I am told. Spent a few hours a the marina watching the ships with the guide and 2 Spanish girls, both doctors, who were also on the tour. Arrived back in Dubrovnik at sunset which made the day perfect. Hopefully can post pictures when the girls email them to me.     

October 10, 2012.    (CROATIA,  Walking "Olde Town" walls)

Got my battery charged and decided to walk the city walls of Dubrovnik which gives a great view of the "old town" and surrounding area. Today is my last day. Dubrovnik and I have an overnight ferry, again, back to Italy and then a train back to Rome. 

October 11, 2012.  (Overnight ferry back to Italy)

Arrived in Rome about 5:20 pm after a 10 hour ferry ride from Dubrovnik, Croatia to Bari, Italy and then train for 4 hrs to Rome. Luckily the hostel was only 5 minutes from the train station. Actually luck had nothing to do with it, that is how I usually book them because they are in the best areas for tourism. Cleaned up and went out on foot to take some night pictures of Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps, the Coliseum and few others. Only a few missteps but the map did its job. Hopefully my 2nd visit to Rome will reveal some new exciting discoveries. My first EUROPE trip in 2006 was so rushed I felt I did not have the opportunity to enjoy all the sights I had seen.

October 12, 2012    (ITALY,  Rome)

Retraced my steps from last night to take what hopefully are better pictures. Visiting the Colisseum,  Forum, Pantheon and Trevi Fountain again for enhanced perspective. 

 

October 13, 2012

Originally had planned on not going back to Vatican Museum and the Sistine Chapel but only St. Peter's Basilica but plans change. It was a rainy day and thought the museums would be a great place to spend the afternoon. A subway there and 10 minute walk and shorter line than expected. Thank you rain. Really surprised when I got to the Sistine Chapel and saw several people taking pictures. It is taboo. Not due to damage to the paintings but because Sony, Japanese company , paid millions for the restoration and  owns the property rights. They normally enforce a no photo policy which also  increases  their sale of books in the souvenir shop. If they were trying to stop people from taking pictures,  I was in the right spot. Took a few pictures in 2006 which were hurried and fuzzy and almost lost my camera to the photo police.

I went to St. Peter's Basilica after touring the Vatican Museum including the Sistine Chapel. Luckily, I had googled the Vatican Museum and found some interesting tips. One included sneaking through the group door after leaving the Sistine Chapel which saves about 45 minutes of walking to St. Peter's Basilica and then waiting in line for over an hour. If you do the traditional tourist exit instead of the group exit in the Sistine Chapel,  you have to walk all the way back to St. Peter's from the entrance of the Vatican Museum. 

Early morning flight to Istanbul,  Turkey so will spend the night in the Airport to save a night's room expense and not have to wake up early to get to the airport. 

October 14-17th, 2012.   (TURKEY,  Istanbul)

Early morning flight from Rome to Istanbul. Bus ride, funicular, tram and 15 minute walk and found my hostel. Unfortunately, they had canceled my entire reservation instead of last 4 nights. They found me a room an hour later. Istanbul is the only city which has parts of its city on two continents (Asia and Europe) divided by a river. Did all the tourist stuff like the Palace, Blue Mosque, Sophia Hagia and Bosphorous Cruise. Also walked the bridge connecting both halfs of the city and the two continents. The "hawkers" selling anything and everything are relentless and follow you around trying to get you to speak to them. I started using my very bad Spanish and it helped deter them a little.

Fly to Cairo, Egypt on the 17th.

October 17th , 2012.  (EGYPT, Cairo, Great Pyramid and Sphinx)

Up 2 am, shuttle to Istanbul airport at 2:45 am and then flight to Cairo at 6:45 am. Need sleep, but stuff to see. Hired a taxi to take me directly from airport to Great Pyramids at Giza. The taxi driver headed towards Cairo and after 30 minutes traffic was almost at a dead stop. After about 15 minutes of this I asked why we didn't take the Ring Road. He said that is a great idea and off we went. Knew this by some research. It is a little longer but usually not much traffic. Arrived at the Pyramids and my guide immediately took me to his boss who tried to sell me a camel or horse tour of the pyramids. My original plan was 45 minutes of pictures and off to the train station at Giza. I held to that plan and it was really easy to walk around and take the pictures I wanted.

Then off to the train station for what I had hoped would be getting on the 12:20 pm day train which is forbiden to tourists. But was going to try and get on and pay the conductor. Unfortunately, the upcoming Feast was approaching and everyone was trying to get on the trains to see family. Was told there could be a lot of danger trying to take a local's seat on the train. The night train, for tourists, was $80 and I would have to wait 10 more hrs at the station. Went to airport and bought a $100 plane ticket to Luxor. What a day.    

October 18, 2012.   (EGYPT, Luxor , West Bank)

Day tour of the West Bank starting at 8:30 am. We first went to the Valley of the Kings. The guide bought our tickets so we did not have to wait in line but there was no line. He said it was 150 Egyptian pounds for everything we were to visit but I checked the prices at each ticket office and it totaled 130. Decided not to say anything but that extra 20 would be his guide tip. Could not take in our cameras  and got in little trouble for trying take pictures with my ancient cell phone. Only took one picture and it was not good but cost me 10 pounds to pay off the guard who seized my cell phone. Tombs were really nice and very colorful. Then we went to the Funerary Temple of Hatshpsut who is the only woman buried in the Valley of the Kings. During her reign she portrayed herself as a man and even wore a fake beard. The funerary took 8 years to build and was only used for her embalming. Very impressive structure though. Also few other places whose names elude me. 

 October 19, 2012.   (Egypt, Luxor Temple, East Bank)

Waited until 1 pm, hottest part of the day, to walk the 35 minutes to the Luxor Temple. Very few taxi drivers, horse carriage drivers or salesman at that time of day compared to rest of day. I was only Tourist  in the Luxor Temple for the 1st 45 minutes I was there. A few more tourists arrived as I was beginning to leave.

Of the more than 700 human-headed, lion-bodied statues that once lined the Avenue of Sphinxes between the Temples of Luxor and Karnak, around 60 still remain. The Avenue of the Sphinxes is where my photos begin.

October 21, 2012.    (Travel Day and Headed Home , wherever that may be) 

Leave Luxor at 11: 35 pm headed to Cairo. Then 8 hrs at airport until 9 am flight back to Istanbul. Then dash to my connecting flight back to New Orleans via Newark. Hopefully arrive at NO airport at 10:35 pm. 

Have spent the last couple of days mostly in hotel since I have seen the sights that I came to see.  While I usually like to walk around and take in the culture and observe the people, the shopkeepers, cab drivers, and horse carriage drivers have gotten to aggressive. Witnessed what appeared to be almost a riot on the street last night while walking when there were 20 horse carriage drivers trying to accommodate 8 tourists. Lots of screaming, yelling and pushing among the horse carriage drivers.

In conclusion:

Incredible and very diversified trip. Originally this trip was to be a guided trip to Ireland and/or Italy but not enough time was allocated to properly advertise and inform the locals. So I used the trip to re-visit Ireland and Italy for future trips. Then the Trip took on a life of its own and I added Scotland, then Turkey, then Croatia and finally Egypt. As always, learned a lot during my travels. What I would do again and what I would not. Hopefully  that translates to a better travel experience for those I bring back to those areas if I decide to bring a group to one of these destinations in the future.

SECTION 6. ( 2011 TRAVELS)

 CHAPTER 13.   ANTARCTICA 

December 28, 2010.   (Antarctica Bound !!!!!!!!!!!)

Departure is at 5 pm today. Checked out of the hostel after lunch and will walk the street of Ushuaia until 4 pm and then go through security at the dock. Ended up at the port around 3:30 and saw a huge line of passengers waiting to clear security. Many did not seem to have any luggage and I was confused but later realized some were on day trips. There were also many going to Antarctica on the 500 passenger ship which was enormous. They are not allowed to land anywhere in Antarctica. The passenger ship must not have more than 100 passengers to make landing in Antarctica. I was actually the first person on board at 4 pm and then Casper, from the Netherlands, came on the ship. We quickly introduced ourselves and were amazed that we ended up as cabin mates. Probably because we both booked at the last moment. After everyone got on the ship we had an emergency drill on the top deck before we started our journey at 6 pm. This 11 day cruise is actually closer to 9.5 days. We leave on the 28th at 6 pm and return at 8 am on the 7th.  2 water trips of a lifetime in the same trip. (Grand Canyon and Antarctica)

December 29, 2010.   (Drake Passage)

The Drake Passage is a lively body of water, and a rite of passage for Antarctic tourists. Named after Sir Francis Drake, it extends 900 kilometers (600 miles) from Cape Horn to the northernmost tip of Antarctica and is famous for being one of the roughest seas in the world.

December  30, 2010.   (Atlantic Convergence)

Lectures today on whales, dolphins and seals. Still in Drake Passage but in Atlantic Convergence, where the warmer and cooler waters meet. Compulsory emergency drill with life jackets at 5 pm. If weather is okay we will land at 7 am. Everyone getting excited. Really nice people on the boat. Most of the people flew in just for this trip and head back afterwards. I am the only person from the United States. There are Germans, Dutch, Canadians, English, French, Italians and not sure of some of the others. Not sleeping well with the ship rolling. 

December 31, 2010.    (Last day of 2010 and 1st landing in Antarctica)

Breakfast at 6 am and climb in Zodiacs, a small motorized raft,  for landing in Antarctica at 7 am. After breakfast most passengers went to the top deck to see the incredible icebergs. Excitement is in the air. I was lucky enough to be in the 1st Zodiac to launch and land in Antarctica. Amazing, words seem to escape me. Wish the family could be here with me. Not much sun and really don't know how that works here. lol   Penguins, penguins and penguins. So incredible how they don't seem to worry much about us. We are to stay about 15 feet away but if they approach you it is okay. Penguins always have the right of way. The landing was at Brown Bluff.

The 2nd landing was at Hope Bay. We visited the Argentine base and were welcomed by the Argentine children, yes children, that live there with their families. We visited the school and I was able to mail a postcard to Kade and Madison from Antarctica.

3rd stop was Paulette Island and saw amazing icebergs as we circled the island in the Zodiacs. 

January 1, 2011.   (New Year's Day on Astrolabe Island)

Wild New Year's party which lasted way too long and made the morning Zodiac cruise with a lot fewer passengers than normal. Most said it was uneventful. However the 2nd landing to Astrolabe Island was incredible. Beautiful icebergs, every type of penguin including the Marconi penguins which Jordy said was a rare treat since they are normally breeding in the Falklands. We also saw a leopard seal and fur seal, another rarity. Then we spotted a Hamburg whale feeding and followed and watch it for about an hour in the Zodiacs. No lamb for 56 years and had it for dinner, the 2nd time in a week including Christmas Eve.

January 2, 2011.   (Cueville Island and Neko Harbour)

We went to Cuerville Island and saw some really beautiful icebergs. Afternoon land was at Neko Harbour.

January 3, 2011.   (English base)

Decided not to go to the English base since I had already visited the much bigger Argentine base and they also were going to see MORE penguins. They are fun to watch but it is getting a little old. The afternoon landing were canceled due to high winds. We head to Shetland Island which marks the beginning of the end. Getting restless since I have seen and experienced some of the best of Antarctica. Starting to feel a little trapped as I am used to being able to move from place to place at will.   

January 4, 2011.  (Deception Bay)

We were awoken at 4:45 by Jordy to let us know that we were arriving at the entrance to Deception Bay in the Shetland Islands. We all went on top to get a look but the weather was dreary and we all wished we had stayed in bed. We took the Zodiacs (small pontoon boat with motor) and landed around 6 am. We were told to bring our swim suits. WHAT!!!! Our first visit was to the Devil Bellows to get a look at the other side of the island and then to the abandoned whaling station. Some people did go for a swim in the cold water and then warmed up in the warm volcanic sand. I WAS NOT one of them. Leaving Antarctica this afternoon.

January 5, 2011.   (Drake Passage)

Not much to do since we have left the Shetland Islands and are headed back to Ushuaia. The waves are starting to get much worse. I have been wearing the same clothes for 3 days since my laundry is still not ready but hopefully today. The trip to Antarctica was much more exciting than the trip back. Ready to be back on solid ground.

January 6, 2011.   (Drake Passage)

The worst weather of the trip. The captain said the waves in the Drake Passage were the worst he has seen in the boat's 5 year history. Almost everyone stayed in their rooms except for meals. Laying in bed seemed to help the most but luckily I did not get seasick. At 6:30 pm the crew presented a slide show of pictures of the passengers and places we visited. Then we all made copies to keep. Wine was flowing.

January 7, 2011.   (LAST DAY)

We docked in Ushuaia around 4 am, had breakfast at 7am and disembarked around 8:00 am. Tired from 2 days of the worst waves the Antarctic Dream has seen in the last 5 years according to the captain. Luckily I did not get seasick but almost everyone stayed in bed most of the time because it was almost impossible to stand or walk. Checked in the hostel and went to sleep after lunch. An incredible trip. Loved the Antarctic part, hated the Cruise part. Also, there were only a few backpackers on this luxury cruise with gourmet food and free wine with lunch and dinner. I have never seen so many dishes that I could not recognize. While the $3990 was $490 over the top amount I had planned on paying, the average cost for most was approximately  $10,000 with one paying $16,000 for a room alone. A few people at the hostel are leaving today for the same cruise at the same price so at least I did not pay too much considering New Years eve and day were on the Antarctic peninsula. Also our boat which has a maximum of 78 passengers only had 63 passengers due to the bad weather in Europe, forcing some planes to South America to cancel their flights. Having less than 100 passengers also allows you to land many places that other boats can not land. We also usually had 3 landings per day when weather permitted.  Back to simple things and so happy for it.  Go Tigers, hope I get it on the television.

CHAPTER 14.   SOUTH AMERICA (Part 2)

January 7, 2011.   (ARGENTINA, Ushuaia)

Back at Freestyle Backpackers Hostel after an incredible journey to Antarctica. Just had the best meal, french bread, ham and chips. After 11 days of gourmet food (lamb, grilled tuna, salmon, and numerous things I still don't know), I am so glad to be back to simple life and simple food. I leave tomorrow for Buenos Aires at 6:40 pm and will arrive at 10 pm. (not ideal)  The flight was actually $50 cheaper than the 50 hr bus ride. Also now know that cruises are not for me. Don't like giving up my freedom to go where I want when I want and not be restricted by schedules. Will start posting Antarctic pictures on my new Antarctic Blog tomorrow. You can find my blog at the bottom of my profile or at http://billpassmanantarctica.blogspot.com

Saturday, January 8, 2011.  (Flight to Buenos Aires)

Slept until 10 am, breakfast and washing clothes. The flight to Buenos Aires was delayed and did not arrive until 11:30 pm. I arrived at the hostel at 12:45 am and checked in. Then I went to the hostel bar a little after 1 am for a beer. I asked the bartender why it was almost empty as this is a very popular hostel. He laughed and said no one goes out until about 2 am and then parties until daylight.  Okay, this is not something I could adjust to in my 50's. Lol.  To each their own. 

January 9, 2011.  (ARGENTINA,  Buenos Aires)

Stayed up till about 3 am chatting with hostel staff and backpackers in the LOUD bar. Still great fun. I , of course, had a top bunk again in the six bed dorm and the rest of the group came in around 5-6 am. Of course, when I got up at 9:30 for the free breakfast, the rest of the group did not move until around 3 pm. About (8) McDonalds and Burger Kings within 3 blocks of the hostel so I am back in my element. The memory of gourmet food on the Antarctic Dream will soon be nothing but a memory.   yeah

Had planned on City Bus Tour at 2 pm to get the sight seeing out of the way but was later informed the double decker bus was full so will rebook later this week. Instead I walked about 25 city blocks to and back from the Sunday Market which is just Artisans lining the streets with their wares and a few musicians playing. Nice way to spend a breezy, 82 degree day. Warm temperatures of rest of my trip. Even gave my fleece jacket away in Ushuaia because too expensive to ship and takes too much valuable space in my backpack.

Tomorrow I go to Brazilian Consulate to apply for my Btazilian Visa ($150) . OUCH  It usually takes 3-4 days and you have to have an incredible amount of information and flights showing you plan on leaving the country. Spending about 6 days in Buenos Aires and then Paraguay, Uruguay, Igassu Falls and then to Brazil.

Will try and upload more Antarctica pictures today.

January 10, 2011.   (URUGUAY,  Colonia)

Spent the day in Colonia, Uruguay which is only an hour and half by ferry from Buenos Aires. Supposed to be the highlight of Uruguay. Spent 12.5 hours there which was 9 hours too much. Nice and kind of reminded me of downtown Natchez. Very artsy.

January 12th and 13th, 2011.  ( Iguazu Falls , Argentina side)

After 17 hrs on bus from Buenos Aires, I finally made it to Puerto Iguazu around 8 am. Luckily the hostel was across the street from the bus station. After a quick shower I went to the Brazilian Consulate which was only a block away. I had to complete an application by 10 am if I wanted a visa the next day. I finished with 3 minutes to spare.  With a check in time of 2 pm I decided to go to Iguazu Falls which is 12 miles away. I got there at 11 am and stayed until 6 pm.  GREAT DAY. FALLS ARE IMPRESSIVE. 

January 14, 2011

Today was a chill day. Yes it's true, you do not have to do something everyday that is tourist related. At this point in my life I no longer consider myself a traditional tourist, just someone who lives his life by seeing new things and places. A NOMAD. Somedays you just need to chill. I laid out by the pool, drank beer and participated in the the hostel BBQ for dinner and of course, taljed travel with other backpackers. 

January 15, 2011.   (2 more nights in Puerto Iguazu)

Just realized my hostel booking for Foz Iguazu, Brazil is not until the 17th so will stay an extra day in Argentina. 1 night there and then a 16 hr bus ride to Sao Paulo, Brazil and hopefully a connecting 4 hr bus to Paraty for some beach time. My mind is overloaded with the amount of pictures to upload from Antarctica and Iguazu Falls. Will do my best tomorrow when I will have more time.

January 17, 2011.  (Foz de Iguazu, Brazil) 

Only a 30 minute bus ride to Foz de Iguazu, Brazil from Puerto Iguazu,  Argentina.  8 checked my bags at the hostel and then headed for the Brazilian side of Iguazu Falls. Many claim the Argentine side is  better because you are so close to the falls that you get soaking wet. For that reason also many pictures have too much moisture from the falls to get a really great picture. The Brazilian side was INCREDIBLE and offered many great pictures of the falls with many more falls in the picture. Momentarily considered the $100 ten minute helicopter flight over the falls but will try and get a YouTube video instead. Can't wait to post pictures. Day trip tomorrow to 2nd largest dam in the world after the 3 Gorges Dam in China then 4 pm bus for 22 hours to Paraty for some great beach time.

January 18, 2011.  (Ciudad del Estes, Paraguay)

Will go short distance across the river to visit Paraguay on short day trip before my 22 hr bus ride to Paraty, Brazil at 4 pm. It is known for its shops and malls. Our guide referred to it as the "Walmart of South America". Everything is cheaper in Paraguay.  We went to a spot where all 3 countries (Paraguay,  Brazil  and Argentina) meet at one point.

January 20, 2011

Made it to Paraty, Brazil after 29 hrs on a bus and 3 hr connection in the terminal. Thought I had direct bus from Foz to Sao Paulo but no, got dropped off in Santos and had to figure out that I should get a connecting bus on my own because all anyone speaks is Portuguese. But got connecting bus to Sao Paulo which took about 1 hr and then found out SOMEHOW (because everyone only speaks Portuguese) that I was at the wrong bus station. The other was clear across town so SOMEHOW I figured out how to use the Metro (subway) and made it to the other station and bought my ticket to Paraty. But it didn't leave for 3 hrs and I was starving. Any terminal (bus, plane etc.) is not where you want to buy food.  I caught the 4 pm bus just in time for rush hour in the city of 13 million. When I finally made it to Parity I used the directions from Hostelworld which did not help at all. I tried asking for help but everyone just speaks Portuguese. (Theme is developing)  Finally another hostel showed me where it was since it was Next Door. Unfortunately they still have their old sign from a previous owner and not the name I booked under.

Better today after 12 hrs of sleep. It is not always fun backpacking but so worth every minute of it. Spent over an hour last night trading stories of past adventures. Some people make me feel like a rookie when it come to  backpacking where others are listening to every story with amazement. 2 more days here and then to Rio de Janeiro and Ipanema Beach and 1 of the 7 Wonders of the World (Christ the Redeemer).

Went to the beach with my new friend, Sabrina, who moved to Brazil 1.5 months ago from Italy. She is from Romania and learned Portuguese in only 1 month which I think is amazing. She has the ability to immediately make you feel like one of her best friends. Great day listening to her thoughts on life. Looks like she found her place in this world (Paraty). Still looking for mine. May do boat trip to one of the 365 islands (1 for each day of the year).

January 21, 2011.  (Paraty Island Cruise)

Went at 11 am on a 5 hr cruise to several islands for swimming and snorkeling. There are 365 islands around the city of Paraty. It was a small boat with only about 10 passengers but of course there were many other boats also doing the same thing. Fun day and one of the reasons I went to Paraty. Leave tomorrow at 10:20 am for the 4 hr bus ride to Rio de Janeiro for a 6 days visit. Staying on Ipanema Beach and hopefully will get a chance to hang glide over Rio de Janeiro and see Christ the Redeemer, one of the 7 Wonders of the World.

January 22, 2011

4 hr bus ride to Rio and arrived around 2:30 pm. Very fortunate that a girl from the hostel in Paraty, Tess, was also going to Rio, so we rode the bus together and shared a cab to the beaches of Copacabana and Ipanema. Just found out the hang gliding trip is $200 for 15 minutes. Decisions, decisions, ha ha, everyone knows I am gonna do it. Time to head the 1 block to Ipanema Beach. Excitement is almost unbearable. 5 nights in Rio and then heading north, not sure where. Missing the grandkids and rest of family a lot.

January 23, 2011.  (HANG GLIDING OVER RIO)

Regardless of the cost, I had made up my mind that I would hang glide over Rio when I went to South America. Plus, I had heard so many incredible stories. It was spectacular and breathtaking. 10 minutes of soaring over the city and landing on the Sao Conrado Beach. I also was able to watch many paragliders and hang gliders take off before it was my turn. Will post a few pictures but have a mini DVD of entire flight that I must find out how to transfer to my computer which has no place for Cd's or DVD. Hopefully I will visit Christ the Redeemer or Sugar Loaf Mountain tomorrow. So expensive here, may leave one day early.

January 24, 2011.  (Ipanema Beach)

BEACH DAY. Not as crowded as on the weekend. Beautiful, beaches and the women. 

January 25, 2010.   (Sugarloaf Mountain)

After the free breakfast at the hostel, I caught the 511 bus to Sugar Loaf and caught the tram up to one of the most scenic spots in Rio. About 1300 feet high.  Pricey at about $28 but have learned to accept that Rio is just crazy expensive even if backpacking. Stayed a few hours just taking in the scenery and caught the 512 back to the hostel.

January 27, 2011.   (Christ the Redeemer) 

Went to Corcordoba Mountain today to see, Christ the Redeemer, 1 of the New 7 Wonders of the World , which is on the very top of the mountain and overlooks Rio. Incredible views but unfortunately the sun was behind the statute and my pictures of the statue are not great. The statue is about 240 feet tall.

January 29, 2011.   (Recife and Olinda)

Arrived on an earlier flight to Recife around 11 pm and of course, the buses quit running. Luckily a taxi was only $10 even though that still hurts to pay. The lack of English and high prices, especially along the coast of Brazil are beginning to take its toll on me. With rooms at $30 a night in the dorm and transportation being so much more than anticipated, my budget is being crushed. However, leave for Manaus in the middle of the Amazon on Feb. 9th and then will bus up into Venezuela. Will discuss that trip a little more when I get a better grasp on it and way the dangers. Almost like traveling in China except most of the hostels there spoke better English.

January 31, 2011.  (Natal, Brazil)

So glad to be out of Recife. Hard to see sights in Olinda when no one at the hostel speaks more than 2 words of English. Even in China, many people learned at least a little English in preparation of the Olympics. Most Brazilians speak neither English or Spanish. With the World Cup in 2014 and Olympics in 2016 you would think that everyone would be learning to speak English. Enough ranting. Chilling out in Natal for 10 days until I bus for 8 hrs to Fortaleeza to catch my flight to Manaus. From there I bus into Venezuela. Got to talk to Scott, Kade and Madison on Skype last night and it was long overdue. Hopefully I will get recharged over next 10 days. No plans except for beach, swimming pool and 1 days of dune buggies on the high sand dune around Natal. It is supposed to be great fun with professional drivers taking you flying over the sand dunes for an entire day. Another unplanned expenditure. Luckily the free breakfast not only includes fruit but bread, ham and cheese. You know what I am thinking , right. Always make 1 or 2 ham sandwiches and keep for lunch.

February 3, 2011.   (New hostel (home) in Natal)

Moved to a new hostel, actually a home masquerading as a hostel 2 days ago. Got a private room, they have the better beach on Ponto Negra and a pool. Staying here until my flight to Manaus. Doing nothing but relaxing and trying not to spend any money. Still thinking about Venezuela. Either way I will be going on the slow boat for 6.5 days up the Amazon in a hammock. I did that once before and while an experience, not that much fun either. But it gets me to Leticia where Colombia, Brazil and Peru meet and I can get a cheap plane to Cartagenca. Then Colombia will be my home for the rest of my trip. ( I think)   Cuba ???????????????????????????

The beaches here are beautiful and found my new favorite food, Acai Ice Cream. Acai's taste is often described as a cross between blackberries and unsweetened chocolate. There are full of antioxidants.  

February 8, 2011.    (Bus to Fortaleeza and plane to Manaus then bus to Santa Elena)

After 11 days of fun and sun and getting recharged in Natal, I am ready to resume my backpacking through South America for the last few legs of my journey. Tonight at 8:15 pm I take a bus for 8.5 hrs to Fortaleeza and then a taxi (since its 4 am) to the airport. Then I take a 9am flight to Manaus and then straight to the bus station, where I will wait for 7 hrs until the 8 pm bus to Santa Elena, Venezuela which will take 15 hrs. Busy 40 hrs of backpacking.

February 10, 2011.   (SNAKES & 1ST DAY OF CLIMB  ???)

The first day of the six day climb started out fine but all of a sudden I found myself faced with a rattlesnake ready to strike right next to my foot. I kicked at the snake repeatedly trying to deflect its strike and keep its fangs from sinking into my leg.  I was still kicking when ....................

I woke up on the bus to Santa Elena (starting point for the trek) and was kicking the foot rest of the seat repeatedly. I quickly looked at the passenger next to me and luckily he was still sleeping. I was still 6 hrs away from Santa Elena. I wondered if this was a nightmare or a premonition. Upon arriving at Santa Elena I signed up for the 6 day climb and at 6 pm we had the briefing about the climb from the local expert who has written 3 books on Roraima (from Lost World fame).

He said the climb would be difficult but the real danger was snakes. Coral snakes, RATTLESNAKES, and some other snake which could kill you within 20 minutes of being bitten. The fact that our bathroom consists of a roll of toilet paper and any bush you can find did not help matters. A lot grass along the trail along the way had been burned to rid some of the snakes. I stayed as close to the guides as possible.  

Luckily it was a nightmare and not a premonition. 

February 11-16th, 2011.   (Climbing Roraima in Venezuela)

Over 50 miles hiking, climbing (using hands a lot) up over 9000 feet in 5 hrs, walking up and under 2 waterfalls, wading waist deep through two rivers, sleeping in tents on rock, and bathrooms which consisted of a roll of toilet paper and wherever you could find space. Hopefully away from the many snakes that supposedly are on this trek even though we luckily did not see any. Our guide said there are partial to Norwegians. lol

Roraima is the largest of the "tepuis" , flat topped mountains, which is 6 miles long on one side. It is made up completely of sandstone but there is lots of vegetation growing out of rocks due to the moisture and nutrients that the winds blow to the top of the mountain. There are crystal valleys and crytal rivers which is a sight to behold and the mountain is rumored to have specific powers and intersects the lines from Machu Picchu and Stonehenge. Strange sounds including voices and lights have been heard and seen from the tepuy nearest to Roaraima which is no longer allowed to climb due to strange behavior in the people climbing and lost climbers who were never found. (Sounds like a great movie of the week) There are over 40 different types of orchids and the weather has created incredible sandstone figures which are all named, such as the flying turtle pictured below.The surface has been compared to the moon. Will have to take their word on that, haven't been there, YET.  lol

We also walked for 8 hrs one day while on top to the Triple Point, where the borders of Brazil, Colombia and Guyana meet. Technically I walked into Guyana for 1 minute but will not count that on my tattoo. 
  
The price to pay to see something that most will never see. (Unfortunately, but hopefully more will make the effort) Great times. Hiked with Swiss couple and Gilbert (Jill Bear) from France.

February 19-25th, 2011

I found a boat leaving sooner than expected. Paid the $180 US for the 6.5 day journey up the Amazon which does not include your hammock (bought for $24) but does include all meals. My experience 4 years ago going downriver from Iquitos on the Amazon was less than a favorable experience. This trip, however, was much better than expected. The boat was larger and newer and the meals were really good for this type of cruise. HOWEVER, every lunch and dinner were exactly the same except for the type of meat served. The meal consisted of rice, beans, spaghetti noodles, and meat or chicken. Still loved it until about the 4th day then I was craving almost anything else. There were approximately 200 passengers on board and every hammock was touching someone elses. People started lining up for each meal approximately 1 hour before they began serving because the dining room only served about 30 people at a time. We got a much closer view of the banks of the Amazon than those who go down river because the boat stays close to the bank to keep away from the current. Most of the time we were within 100 to 150 feet from the banks. Not much to do during the day but watch the scenery, eat and sleep in your hammock. At night the top deck turned into a Salsa dance club with many Skol beers being consumed. I made some really great friends on the trip, Bobby (Canada), Hanas (Italy), Elise (Colombia) and Sonny (Australia). The sunsets were spectacular with the sun setting sometimes on the Amazon River and others with thunderstorms putting on a lightning spectacular. The first 4 days went by fast as the boat never docked at any other ports but starting on the 5 th day we stopped several times a day which was so boring. You can only watch people unload things for so long. The 6th day we stopped in port for 11 hours which was an eternity. Back to the hammock for more sleep was usually the remedy for boredom. So happy to land in Tabatinga, Brazil and then walk the 2 km to Leticia, Colombia. Finally on solid ground again. So happy I did this trip as I made great friends and added a more positive perspective to river travel on the Amazon than my previous trip.  Thought that I saw a pink river dolphin at the mouth of a river that empties into the Amazon but it was a Manatee, how cool. Picture included.

February 25, 2011

The 4 Amigos (myself, Bobby, Hanas, and Sonny) and the chica (Elize) went in search of accommodations upon arriving in Leticia. The guys all found a dorm in a very nice hotel for only $10 a person in 4 bed dorm while Elise stayed with a friend of hers. Elise and Hanas are now an item and we are in danger of becoming the 3 Amigos (lol). We all ate food other than what we had been eating for 7 days and enjoyed a few beers. I ordered a hamburger which came with a meat pattie, lettuce, tomato, cheese and a piece of ham on it. HAMburger, I guess. Should not be surprised because it is the 3rd time this trip it has happened. Just glad it did not have a fried egg on top like there has been on a few occasions.  Everyone else but me decided to go out for a night on the town. For once I used my better judgment and turned in after they decided to leave the hotel around 11 pm and search for more entertainment. They came in late making quite a ruckus. Payback was served by me at 7 am the next morning. Good times. I fly out of Leticia on the 28th to Cartagena for 4 days and then bus to Santa Marta for some Caribbean beach time.

March 1, 2011.   (COLOMBIA,  Cartagena)

Arrived in Cartagena last night after a 3.5 hr flight from Leticia. The taxi ride to the hostel was short (10 minute) but expensive ($7.50). The Hostel El Viajero Cartagena is within the historic and walled portion of the old city. Today I hiked along the wall of the old city and took pictures of all of the old structures which have been maintained well. 3 more nights here and then to Santa Marta for 2 nights.

March 4-6th, 2011.   (COLOMBIA,  Santa Marta)

Travel day. Take 4.5 hr to shuttle to Santa Marta. Something didn't feel right when I arrived at the hostel. Maybe the fact there was a MALL across the street from the hostel made it feel like Santa Marta was too commercial  for my taste. I started making alternate plans soon after checking in. Tanganga, a nearby Caribbean village, would be my destination soon and only a 45 minute bus ride.

March 6 - 23rd, 2011

No plans here but relaxing by the hostel pool, watching sunsets, drinking beer and some beach time. I love the sunsets at the village port. The sun always seems to set perfectly while musicians play and people sip chilled rum. When the sun sets, the musicians stop ...... in acknowledgement.  A great time is had by all.

After great couple of weeks at Taganga enjoying the beach and sunsets, I was summoned home by my granddaughter, Madison and flew home on the 23rd of March. I still had 4 weeks before my original return flight but was able to change the date for $150. Great time in South America and Antarctica. Time to start planning for the next adventure, but must spend quality time with the family first. 

TRIP OF A LIFETIME, AGAIN.   I am very fortunate. 

CHAPTER 15.   CANADA, Vancouver and ALASKA  (May 31 - July 6th)

CANADA

May 31, 2011.   (Baton Rouge to Seattle to Vancouver)

Fly out of BR airport at 5:30 am. Thanks to my son, Jon, who took me to the airport at 3:30 am. . A change of planes in Houston and arrived at Seattle at 12 pm. 8 hr. wait for my friend to arrive and then we took the "Seattle to Vancouver" shuttle at 9 pm. Arrived at Vancouver at 1:30 am and walked the two blocks to the Samesun Hostel. Long day. 

Note: I was much cheaper flying to Seattle and taking a shuttle than flying to Vancouver.

June 1, 2011.   (CANADA,  Vancouver, Granville Island)

Moved from private room to 6 bed male dorm today. Then walked to Granville Island to see the market and shops. That afternoon we took the ferry and bus to see the Lynn Valley Suspension Bridge. 2 Irish guys and 1 from England and 1 from Ohio sharing the room. The Vancouver Canucks won the first game of the Stanley Cup and the bars and streets were filled with celebrating fans. Not best of nights to sleep in hostel but that is what you do for inexpensive rooms.

June 2, 2011.  (CANADA, Vancouver, rainy day)

It rained all day so we did not get a chance to go to Stanley Park. Great chill day. Pitchers of beer in the hostel bar with Irish guys that evening.

June 3, 2011.   (CANADA, Victoria, Vancouver Island)

Beautiful day. We caught the sky train to the Greyhound bus station and then caught the bus/ferry/bus to Victoria on Vancouver Island. Beautiful ferry ride. Checked in the Ocean Island Backpackers Hostel and walked to the Inner Harbour.

June 4, 2011.  (CANADA,  Victoria, Vancouver Island)

Decided to skip the Buchart Gardens. Supposedly very beautiful but not paying $25 per person plus $10 transportation to see flowers that are everywhere in Victoria. The Empress Hotel (where my sister, Sandra, had high tea on her visit last year) and the Parliament building are beautiful and lit up at night. 3 cruise ships in Victoria today so very crowded plus Canucks won again and celebrations are beginning. Leave Monday on 9.5 hr bus ride to north island town of Port Hardy. We catch a 13 hr ferry on Tuesday to Prince Rupert which is supposedly spectacular.

June 6, 2011.   (Greyhound from Victoria to Port Hardy)

Took the 7:30 am bus from Victoria to Port Hardy. (9.5 hrs.)  It was a beautiful and scenic bus ride but chilly. Took sandwiches for lunch and dinner. Staying night at hostel in Port Hardy and then 7:30 am ferry ride to Prince Rupert. (15 hrs but beautiful Inside Passage scenery)

June 7-9th, 2011.   (Inside Passage , Ferry Port Hardy to Prince Rupert)

Had to leave the hostel at 5 am for the 20 minute shuttle ride to the ferry. The ferry ride was very comfortable and the scenery was fantastic. Beautiful snow topped mountains. Saw a few whales but could not get a photo as they did not surface for long. We were picked up at 10:45 pm by the hostel and quickly crashed. Will be in Prince Rupert until the 9th and then another long ferry ride. (2 days on the Inside Passage but in Alaska) Can't wait.

ALASKA

June 9, 2011.   (Prince Rupert, Canada to Juneau, Alaska by Ferry)

Boarded the Taku Ferry using the Sea Alaska Pass (allows one to hop on , hop off at 3 ports from Prince Rupert to Skagway) at 5:30 am. The Inside Passage was especially beautiful when going through the narrows. There was a 3 hr. layover in Ketchikan so I disembarked and did the tourist thing for few hours. The ferry left Wrangell after a brief 1 hr stop around 11:30 pm. This part of the journey is the most dangerous as the ferry has to navigate through narrow passages at night with many small islands in the middle of the passageway. There are multi-colored lights on both sides and on the islands in the middle. They are called the Christmas Lights. It was beautiful along the 72 mile trip but little scary. About ten of us stayed up until about 3am when we finished navigating the passage. Then slept on the floor in between the rows of seats until about 7 am. Cheaper than a cabin.

June 10, 2011.  (Juneau ferry to Haines, Alaska)

Incredible day. 1 hr before arriving at Juneau I saw a humpback whale breach (leap halfway out of water) right in front of me. Luckily I was at the front of the ferry taking pictures when it breached. I got a good picture which I will post as soon as possible. The ship actually had to swerve to keep from hitting the whale. Arrived at Juneau port which is actually 14 miles outside Juneau at 1:30 pm. Then bought ticket to Haines and continued on the Inside Passage at 3 pm. Arrived at Haines at 7:30 pm and hostel owner forgot to pick us up. We called him and he apologized for the misunderstanding. Stayed 2 nights in Haines and it is very beautiful though not much to do. Met nice girl from the Netherlands, Claire, who continued on to Skagway on the fast ferry with us 2 days later.

June 12, 2011.   (ALASKA, Haines to Skagway)

Caught the 1 pm fast ferry to Skagway. Only a 40 minute ride but beautiful. Found the Skagway Home Hostel without too much trouble. Did not like the co-ed dorm so moved to the male dorm inside the owner's house. Much nicer and only $5 more. There are fewer than 1000 residents of Skagway but sometimes more than 10,000 tourists when 3-4 cruise ships arive at the same time. Skagway was the starting point for most that arrived for the Alaska Gold Rush. The town's main street is Broadway and most of the buildings have been preserved and leased out to jewelry stores, gift shops and restaurants. Went to the Bonanza Saloon to watch the Mavs beat the Heat. Great game but did not care for the $5.50 beer but do what you gotta do. Will be here 4 nights and then to Juneau for 6 days.

June 13, 2011.   (Hiking and lots of tourists in Skagway)

2.5 hour hike to Lower Dewey Lake this morning. Nice view overlooking the harbor and town. Went to the grocery store for supplies and walked around town in the afternoon watching all the tourists from the 3 cruise ships. The steam locomotive came back in from its trip through the mountains. Would love to do the train through the mountains but gotta cut back on expenses. Doing the train trip from Seward to Denali and that will have to do. You can not do everything on every trip.

June 15, 2011.   (Last day in Skagway)

Still amazed at the number of people that descend on Broadway Street in Skagway each day. There are always 2-4 cruise ships arriving with up to 12,000 people. Luckily for those staying here it ends each evening as the people board their enormous ships and set sail. The town must make their profit for the year in the 3 months of tourist season. After that, most board up their stores until spring except for 2 cafes and the local grocery store.

Today is the last full day in Skagway. Leave tomorrow on the 10 am ferry for Juneau. Expecting another beautiful day and hope to see whales and seals. Will do a little hiking to Reid Falls later today.

June 16, 2011.   (ALASKA,  Juneau)

Early 7 am ferry to Juneau. We saw about 15 killer whales playing around, though not too close, and a couple of humpback whales. I think the ferry rides from town to town see as much whale action as the whale tours that are expensive. After arriving at the Juneau ferry terminal, 14 miles from town, decided to walk the two miles to the bus stop rather than paying $30 for taxi to Juneau. Beautiful day and saw an eagle in the tree along the road. Made it to the hostel at 4 pm but the hostel does not open until 5 pm.

I have never seen a hostel like this one. It is a beautiful large house and they only charge $10 per night for the dorm bed. You must sign up to do one chore a day to help keep costs down. You must leave at 9 am every morning and cannot get back in until 5 pm. (this is a lockout)  Many hostels have a lockout for a few hours to cleans but never seen one all day. A good way to make you get up and do something. Will either hike today or spend day in library posting many pictures I have to upload.

Juneau's scenery is BREATHTAKING. It is called "little San Francisco".

Juneau is called little "san francisco" due to its street and houses dot the surrounding mountains, Mount Roberts and Mount Juneau, and bordering the ocean.

The town usually has several cruise ships landing each day during the summer.

June 17, 2011.   (Hiking Mount Roberts)

Decided to hike Mount Roberts this morning. It is about 4000 feet high above sea level. When you start hiking next to a cruise ship, you are at sea level. lol  It is a joke in Alaska when the tourist get off the cruise ship and ask how high above sea level each town is.

Most tourists take the tram up to the restaurant which is about 2000 ft. I hiked for an hour to the tram and then another 1 hour and 15 minutes to get to the summit. There was a very beautiful view of  the Gastineau Channel, surrounding mountains, and Juneau and Douglas. I attempted to complete the Alpine Loop but at one point along the ridge the path was completely covered by snow. After quickly realizing the potential danger, I returned along the path I had taken earlier. The view from the summit was so beautiful that it is one of the highlights of my trip so far.

June 21, 2011.   (Ferry from Juneau to Whittier)

We leave at 12:30 pm for the 2.5 day ferry ride across the gulf to Whittier. There are 7 others from the hostel also on the ferry so it should be an interesting trip. 2 nights sleeping on the floor, hopefully we can find some mats like the last overnight ferry. No internet for 2.5 days. Juneau has been beautiful even though the lockout has been a pain in the butt. The ferry ride was spectacular with beautiful snow capped mountains and lots of whales.

June 23, 2011.   (Whittier to Seward)

Arrived at Whittier at 7 am. The ferry ride was spectacular. Our shuttle to Seward was not until 1:30 pm as it was coming from Anchorage with other passengers in transit to Seward. We spent time basking in the sun at a restaurants back porch overlooking the bay until then and had a quick bite to eat. The tourists from Anchorage had also paid for a tour along with the transit so we benefited from that without having to pay. Several photo stops and a quick 30 minute visit to a park which had fenced moose, reindeer and bears. A little sad.

We arrived at Seward at 5 pm, checked in and took the free shuttle to Safeway for supplies. The weather was beautiful but looks like the rain will be arriving shortly. Seward is the launching area for trips to the Kenai Peninsula to see whales, seals and glaciers calving.

 There was a tsunami warning later in the night. Someone saw on the internet there had been a 7.4 earthquake near the Aleutian Islands and that there was a tsunami warning for the coast of Alaska. We are on the coast but not near the beach. A little higher up the hill. Then the sirens started announcing the tsunami warning. Things got tense and exciting but 5 minutes later the warning was canceled. Good nights sleep especially since  no snoring guys, luckily there are 4 women in the coed dorm.

June 24, 2011.   (Kenai Fjord National Park , cruise)

Spent $167 on a cruise to the Kenai Fjord National Park to see glaciers, whales, seals and lots of birds. The cruise did not disappoint and was money well spent. We saw lots of whales and glaciers calving (the breaking away of ice chunks from edge of glacier). The cruise included an all you can eat buffet of roast beef and salmon of which I took advantage.

June 26th and 27th, 2011.   (Seward to Anchorage to Denali)

Train from Seward to Anchorage on the 26th. Then night at hostel in Anchorage and 8 am train to Denali National Park. Beautiful ride but cloudy. Saw bears, moose, eagles and beautiful scenery. Arrived in Denali and checked into the Denali Mountain Morning Hostel which is located outside Denali National Park and was my best budget option.

June 28, 2011.   (Denali National Park)

I took the hostel shuttle to the Park to catch the 9 am shuttle through the park. Unfortunately, everything was booked and we had to take the 10 am shuttle to the Eielson Visitor Center. It was an 8 hr bus ride and we saw grizzly bears, caribou, moose and eagles. Great trip but did not see Denali (Mount Whitney). Denali is only visible about 30% of the time so not too disappointed. Considering a summit airplane flight which is expensive but supposedly you can see climbers attempting to summit Denali. Will hope weather is up for it. Nice park but only has 92 miles of accessible road. Hostel is 14 miles outside the park but has a free shuttle to the park and back.

June 30, 2011.   (Denali Park bus to Wonder Lake)
Took the 11 hour bus shuttle to Wonder Lake. Saw lots of grizzlies, a bull moose which is rare, few caribou and some sheep. Cloudy day but not cold like the other day. Did not get to see Denali (Mount McKinley) due to cloud cover. Only 3 out of 10 visitors EVER see Denali due to clouds. I may take a summit plane trip tomorrow to due that hopefully. The bus 1 hr before mine saw Denali for about 10 seconds.

July 2, 2011.  (Denali Summit Flight)

The weather did not look so good when I got up at 5 am and did not look any better when the driver of Fly Denali picked us up at 9 am. He said we would probably not fly but later said the weather had changed and we would see the summit. There were 8 of us in the twin turbo prop plane which had oxygen for us to use when we reached 12,000 feet. We climbed to an altitude of 20,000 feet to circle the summit of Denali (Mt. McKinley). While the sky was clear mostly and we could see most of the mountain, the summit was obscured by clouds. We got a few shots as we circled and even saw a group of climbers coming down from the summit. Still going over my pictures to determine if I got the summit in any of them. Not GREAT trip for $328 but still a lot of fun. The flight was over 1.5 hrs long. The pilot had requested we get an adjustment on our price but still no word on that and it does not look likely. Think it is just the luck of the draw. Weather changes quickly in Alaska. I am told the winter is the best time to see Denali when its cold and the air is crystal clear. I also hope to go back in the winter and see the Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights) one day.

10 days later after complaining to the hostel, they contacted the airplane flight tour company and they refunded the entire fee. 

July 3rd.    Flight to Seattle from Anchorage.

I flew to Seattle to spend a few days after my Alaska adventure and the return flight was much cheaper by flying RT to Seattle. My hostel was near the Pike Place Market so I was able to spend time there.

July 4, 2011.   (Seattle 4th of July Fireworks)

Found out a great place to watch the fireworks that not too many people know about from girl working at the hostel. While over 40,000 were watching from Gas Works across the bay, I was watching from the other side high on a hill with a few hundred. Took me about 45 minutes to walk there and fireworks started at 10 pm and lasted until 10:45.

July 5, 2011.   (View from 73rd Floor of Bank America)

While most go to the Space Needle for a view of Seattle, I took the advice of the hostel and guidebook and went to the Bank America Building (Seattle's tallest) and looked at Seattle from the 73rd floor observation deck. Much higher and cheaper (only $5) than the Space Needle. Advice from the hostel always gives you the best advice travelers and usually the least expensive version. Last day on this trip. Fly home tomorrow.  GREAT TRIP, AGAIN.

CHAPTER 16.   GUATEMALA

DECEMBER 14, 2011.    (GUATEMALA,  Antigua)

Great first few days in Antigua. Can't believe I left when it was in the 20's in Louisiana and now its in the 70's. Having trouble posting pictures but will do my best when possible. Climbed Cerro de La Cruz which overlooks the city yesterday. Great workout and great pictures. 5 more days here and then to Lake Atitlan for a week or so. Will miss seeing Kade and Madison for Christmas but sure they will be busy with friends and family.

December 19, 2011.   (GUATEMALA,  San Pedro on Lake Atitlan)

Caught the 9 am shuttle to San Pedro on beautiful Lake Atitlan, called by many the most beautiful lake in the world. Staying same place as last year at Hotel Villa del Lago. A private room/private bath with television and internet for $6.25 with a beautiful patio view of the lake. Very fortunate the room was available. Not as much to do here but that also is the beauty. Will try and visit some of the many villages around the lake by boat and maybe hike another volcano like last time I was here.

December  20, 2011

Love the laid back atmosphere of San Pedro and The Lake. Walked around and got reacquainted and also found some new spots. Met 2 "mature" travelers who were sisters and one was from South Africa and the other from England. We had nice chat over breakfast (ham & cheese omelet, bread, fruit, fried beans, guacamole and coffee for $2.50) and I gave them some backpacking knowledge that I had acquired about Guatemala.

December 23, 2011

As it gets closer to Christmas, my decision to leave before Christmas makes me second guess whether I should have waited. However, since none of my family or friends use heat in the freezing winter, I had no choice or either freeze. LOL Actually everyday seems like Christmas when I am with Kade and Madison.

My decision to come back to Guatemala was done to save up money for future travels next winter and hopefully a new travel business when I return in a few months. I am doing really well on my budget in San Pedro. My budget is $20 a day for everything, room, food, and entertainment. So far I have been under that budget and many days spending about $13 a day. It is so hard to believe that my beautiful , private room with tv (and HBO) only cost $6.25 a night and has a balcony overlooking Lake Atitlan.

There was an incident with a "mature" traveler who was leaving and thought he should get a refund for prepaying. He started screaming at the hosttel owner, Gladys, and then grabbed her by the shoulders and started shaking her. Luckily I was standing nearby and stepped in between him and her. I am not a hero but could not just stand around and let a man physically abuse a woman.

Loving the lake and its tranquility. Learning the Latino way, to slow everything down and just enjoy life. I am learning to walk slower , trying to talk slower and pay more attention to my surroundings. Every child here seems to be selling something but they also seem very happy.

December 25, 2011. (CHRISTMAS DAY) 

The day started out unbelievably. At midnight I was awakened by fireworks. I walked out on my patio and all the villages around the lake were simultaneously setting off fireworks. While the fireworks were not anything special in themselves, the overall picture of all the villages working together to coordinate this was very special and moving.

The day only got better as I was able to talk to Scott, Kade and Madison on Skype, an invention that has made travel more bearable when not with loved ones.

The Alegre Pub sold Brunch and Christmas Dinner tickets to a small few regulars and backpackers for only $15. This is quite a good deal since they involve an unlimited breakfast buffet with mimosa and Christmas dinner is an unlimited dinner with Turkey, Ham and all the trimmings along with a glass of wine. In the afternoon they will show A Christmas Story in English upstairs in the movie room.

While not the same as being with family, it is nice that they try to make us feel at home while traveling.

December 28, 2011.   (Quiet and peaceful on the Lake)

With Christmas over and New Years approaching I plan on enjoying the peaceful solitude of Lake Atitlan and the small village of San Pedro la Laguna.  

A few observations:

Each store in the village washes the cobblestone streets in front of their business with soap and water. Almost all of the indigenious people wear traditional clothing and which is a source of pride for them. Women are selling all type of bread early in the morning out of a basket such as cinnamon rolls and banana bread for only 50 cents each.

But what amazes me most is that these women are waist deep in the lake at 6 am washing clothes and bathing. Even the owner of the hotel I am staying in bathes and washes her hair even though she lives in the hotel and they all have hot showers. Tradition and the simple life. I find myself doing with less as each day passes.

December 30, 2011.   

Eating cheap and healthier, catching up on movies on HBO, enjoying the beautiful scenery are all part of my plan to save lots of money while here. While not yet acquiring monk status, I am only socializing on weekends no matter how inexpensive the pubs make the drinks.

December 31, 2011.   (New Year's Eve)

Great New Year's at Alegre Pub and perfect way to end the year in one of my favorite places in the World, Lake Atitlan.  Fireworks at midnight woke me up but were spectacular as villages all around the lake were celebrating. The view of fireworks reflecting over the lake with the mountains in the backdrop was worth losing a little sleep.  Happy New Years to ALL.