Chapter 1. TANZANIA (Kilimanjaro and Safari)
1ST OVERSEAS TRIP EVER
Chaper 1. TANZANIA, Kilimanjaro and Safari
KILIMANJARO
March 7th and 8th, 2006. (Houston to Amsterdam to Kilimanjaro)
I left Houston, Texas on March 7th flying to Amsterdam. My connecting flight was delayed 2 hours and I arrived at Kilimanjaro Airport at 10 pm. I went to baggage claims and realized that my large climbing bag was not there. It was still in Amsterdam. They said it would be brought to the hotel tomorrow. Good thing I came one day early. Unfortunately there was another problem, I had failed to notify my hotel transportation of the complication and they had left the airport, without me. Now its about 11:30 pm and there are very few people and no marked taxis at the airport and I am 30 miles from the hotel in Moshi. Not a great way to start my 1st overseas trip. 2 men agreed to take me for $50 in this unmarked car. While riding down this dark highway with 2 strange men, I noticed the fuel gauge was almost on empty. I mentioned it and they did not respond. My heart rate increased and I began to have thoughts of being robbed or killed since no one knew where I was. Then all of a sudden we pulled off the road and stopped. My mind was racing. Then the driver honked the car horn and the lights of a gas station came on and we got gas for the remainder of the journey. I got to the hotel at 12:30 am. With 24 hours of traveling and an unusual "taxi" ride, I had never been so happy to climb into my bed.
March 9, 2006
The hotel was beautiful but no air conditioning and electricity cuts off at 6am, so no fan after that. I got up the next day and met other climbers at lunch. People from Germany, Australia, New Zealand, the Netherland, England and every other country imaginable. Also talked with a group who had just been on Kilimanjaro. Some made it, some did not. I was told about 30% make it to summit. Some companies boast a 90% success ration but the guides say that never happens. You just don't know how altitude will affect you. Being in good shape is only one part of the equation.
Friday March 10, 2006
We drove to the Machame Gate {1800 meters} at 11am. We climbed 1200 meters and arrived at camp about 4:30 pm. We started out in the jungle. By the time we summit we will have climbed through 6 different ecosystems.
"Mountain climbing is extended periods of intense boredom, interrupted by occasional moments of sheer terror."
Anonymous
(though technically this is not mountain climbing but a very difficult hike)
Saturday March 11, 2006
The climb was very hard today. We got to camp at 4:30 pm. There were at least 50 spots on the trail where one false step and you would fall 500 feet. You finally get used to the height. The food is not the best. There always seems to be some mystery meat, enough rice for 12 people and some kind of soup which is tasteless. But the scenery is incredible. We have been walking for 2 days and still have not seen the top of the mountain. By the time we summit we will have walked over 30 miles.
Sunday March 12, 2006
Today we climb from 3800 meters to 4500 meters and then back down to 3950 meters. Climb high, sleep low. Best way to acclimate. Did not sleep at all last night. The Lava Tower is 4600 meters high.
Monday March 13, 2006
Still not eating or sleeping. Today we climb Barranco Wall, almost 1200 feet straight up. At one spot, the "kissing point", the ledge is only 8 inches wide and if you are not "kissing" the wall you might fall off. Camp will be at 4200 meters. A large group who paid more than $6000 each are at camp. They brought banquet tables, doctors and oxygen.
"Its not your aptitude, but your attitude that determines your altitude."
Thomas Alexander
Tuesday March 14, 2006
Slept great for the first night and ate well. Hopefully I have finally acclimated. Not sleeping and not eating are signs of altitude sickness. If you don't eat, the guides make you go back down. Today the climb was only 700 feet in altitude to get to Barafu Camp. We are at 4600 meters. It is so cold outside and inside the tent is like an oven with the sun beating down at 3 pm. Tomorrow we climb 4000 feet to summit Kili.
Wednesday March 15th and 16th, 2006
I left the camp with the guide,Charlie, about midnight. There was a hail storm last night from about 10 pm until 11, thankfully it quit about 11:30. The wind was blowing about 20 to 30 mph but the guide said that was typical. We started at 4600 meters and have to make it to Uhuru Point which is 5895 meters. So we have about 4000 feet to climb in the freezing cold at night with 30 mph winds. About half the way up we ran into two young guys who said the altitude got to them and they did not summit. Not the most encouraging of news. Every few steps I would want to rest but Charlie would tell me to keep putting my feet in front of me. My eyes were hurting so bad due to the cold and wind. We had headlamps on due to the darkness but Charlie told me to put on my sunglasses to keep out the wind. So strange to be wearing sunglasses at night. But it helped. I realized that I was taking 2 breaths to every step. What was I thinking when I decided to climb Kilimanjaro. Whenever I thought about quitting, I thought of Gunther, the German who was making his 3rd climb. He was 80 years old and summited one day ahead of us tying the age record. Leaving at midnight accomplishes two purposes, the ground is still frozen and easier to climb and you arrive at the summit at daylight which is incredibly beautiful. Pole Pole, which is Swahili for slowly, slowly. That is the secret for climbing Kili. After about 5 hours we arrived at Stella Point. My guide said that many people stopped here and considered this their summit. He said it was another 60-70 minutes to Uhuru Point. I told him that I did not climb all this way to stop before the top. I saw my climbing friends , Rob and Caleb, who left without me because they thought I would slow them down, coming down the mountain. They were unhappy because they summited too early and it was too cold to wait for sunrise. I finally made it to the summit and arrived as the sun was coming up. I was the only one there at the time. Charlie took a few pictures and my batteries quit working due to the cold. Luckily I brought a cheap camera which worked fine for a few pictures. There is only 50% of the oxygen that you normally breath at that height and it was about -10 C , so your time at the top is limited. If I go back I will climb for more days and acclimate better so that I can stay on top longer. 9-10 day climbs allow you to sleep right below the crater, acclimatize and only have to climb about 1000 feet to summit. The glaciers at the top were spectacular and to be standing on the "Roof of Africa" at sunrise is an unbelievable feeling.
But now you have to get down. You have been climbing for 6 days and not you go down using muscles that you have not been using. Everyone goes up different routes but everyone goes down the same way. By now the sun is up and the ice on the ground is melting. You are slipping and sliding all the way down back to the camp. After several hours of walking you arrive at camp and they let you sleep for 1.5 hours. Then they pack up the camp, eat a quick lunch and you walk down for another 5 hours. We had walked up 4000 feet and down 11,000 feet in one day. We finally made it to the Mweka Hut and had a celebration beer or beers. We tipped our porters and guides who amazing carried all of our supplies up this mountain.
The next day we got our certifications from the Park Ranger stating we had actually summited and went back to the hotel. Tomorrow I go on Safari.
"It is not the mountain we conquer, but ourselves."
Sir Edmund Hillary
"Some people travel to look, while others come to see."
Sherpa to Sir Edmund Hillary
"He who climbs the highest mountains laughs at all tragedies, real or imaginary."
March 17, 2006
Time for much needed rest at the hotel . There was a long wait to get a massage today as hikers were looking for relief for their aching muscles. Beer was flowing during the night but I turned in early as my safari was leaving at 8 am. During the night I heard a commotion from my 2nd floor room and thought it was just people who had overindulged. I was very shicked in the morning to see water and mud throughout the hotel grounds. Seems a flash flood destroyed one of the hotel perimeter walls. Some on the 1st floor mentioned they woke up to water flooding their rooms.
SAFARI
March 18th - March 21st (2006)
A 3 night/4 day safari to (3) National Parks was the reward to myself for making it to the summit of Kilimanjaro (5895 meters or 19,340 ft.). I had a private guide and private Landover at a cost of about $1000. The luxury lodges were a welcome respite from the difficult tent camping conditions on Kili and no air con at hotel in Moshi. Plus each lodge had all u can eat buffets. Gained back all the weight and more I lost on the Kili trek.
Saturday March 18, 2006
Today we drove 3 hrs to the Serengeti National Park. The Serengeti in Tanzania is one of those places that you see on tv and dream of seeing one day. The wildlife is unbelievable with its great diversity. I really did not expect to see camels there. I only thought they were in the desert.
On the way we saw 2 lions with a zebra kill 4 of the Big 5 {lion, water buffalo, elephant and the elusive leopard}. Only the rhino was missing. I also witnessed the wildebeest migration which is beyond belief. Over one million wildebeest travel year round in a large circle from the Serengeti to Ngorongoro Crater and then back to Kenya. On the way we saw 2 lions with a zebra kill. Today we saw 4 of the Big 5 {lion, water buffalo, elephant and the elusive leopard}. Only the rhino was missing. I also witnessed the wildebeest migration which is beyond belief. Over one million wildebeest travel year round in a large circle from the Serengeti to Ngorongoro Crater and then back to Kenya.
That afternoon, we finally found the elusive leopard. When we arrived at the site, 3 other vehicles were also there. The leopard was lying on a branch in the tree and we found out that the other vehicles had been waiting for 2 hrs for him to move. As soon as we parked, the leopard started to come down the tree and posed for us for about 20 minutes. The lodge was built up on high rocks and had a beautiful view of the Serengeti , especially at sunset.
March 19, 2006. (TANZANIA, Lake Manyara)
Lake Manyara was not my favorite National Park but was my favorite lodge. The baboon seen was actually outside of my 2nd floor balcony. Which leads to my story. On checking in we were told to keep our balcony doors locked. The morning after check in I went out on my balcony to see the sights, closed my balcony door and went to breakfast. Someone in the hotel starting screaming and asking who was in room 223 because a baboon was in the room. My room of course. He was removed by hotel personnel. They come into the rooms looking for food I was told.
March 20, 2006. (TANZANIA, Ngorongoro Crater)
The Ngorongoro Crater is the 10th most visited natural wonder in the world. It is the largest natural crater in the world with over 25,000 large animals living there year round. It is 15 kilometers in diameter with a 2000 foot crater rim all the way around. The lodges are perched on the crater rim and the Land Rovers drive down into the crater to view the wildlife.
March 21, 2006. (GOING HOME)
12 hr. flight from Kilimanjaro airport to Amsterdam and then a 3 hr. layover there. 10 more hours to Houston and all that was left was the 6 hr. drive back to Jonesville, Louisiana.
Climbing Kilimanjaro gave me the confidence to try things that I never considered trying. The Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater showed me the beauty of Africa that I had only seen on television. These 2 things together gave me a burning desire to see the rest of the world that I will always have.
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed in the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did."
Mark Twain
CHAPTER 2. EUROPE (Inital Trip)
September 5, 2006
I flew into Amsterdam but immediately took the high speed Thalys train to Paris. I wanted to start my journey in Paris and end it in Amsterdam 2 months later. I have my passport, credit cards, a 2 month eurail pass and only the clothes that will fit in my small, carryon backpack. I will buy clothes if necessary. I have a general plan but nothing written in stone. This is only my second time to go overseas with Kilimanjaro, Tanzania in Africa in March 2006 being the first.
September 6, 2006
After arriving in Paris, I checked into my room, showered and went out to explore Paris. A breakfast croissants at a local bakery and my FIRST EVER subway experience. This country boy from Louisiana was very apprehensive and a little scared of the unknown but quickly figured out how to get to the Arc de Triomphe and climbed to the top. Construction began in 1806 by Napolean to celebrate his armies victories. The Arc de Triomphe is also connected to the Champs-Elysees which is one of the main streets in Paris. Then to the Eiffel Tower which is probably the most recognized monument in the world. It was originally built as a temporary, decorative centerpiece for the 1889 Universal Exhibition but was saved from demolition and used as a radio tower because it was the tallest structure in Europe. Today, it is the very symbol of Paris.
" If one of us dies, ' the husband told his wife, ' I shall move to Paris. "
Sigmund Freud
September 6, 2006
After visiting the Arc de Triomphe and the Eiffel Tower, I walked down the Champs-Elysees to the Louvre. Once the largest palace in the world and now the largest museum in the world, it is the home of the Mona Lisa and the Venus de Milo. It contains over 400,000 works of art, 35,000 of which are on permanent display. I spent several hours in the Louvre and then it was only a 15 minute walk along the Seine River to Notre Dame Cathedral.Notre Dame Cathedral is the 3rd largest Gothic cathedral after Rome's St. Peter's and Canterbury Cathedreal and the first to use flying buttresses. It is known for its unrivaled stained-glass windows and sculptures. The beautiful stained glass windows were removed piece by piece during both world wars and put in a safe place. I paid the 7.50 euro to climb the 376 steps to the bell tower (No Quasimodo) for an amazing view of Paris and up close view of its famous gargoyles. Later that evening I took the METRO back to the Eiffel Tower to see it lit up. The 1st 10 minutes every hour after 10 pm it blinks. Impressive.
September 7, 2006
The Chateau De Versailles was home of one of the most flamboyant courts and opulent palaces since the fall of the Roman Empire. It was constructed mostly by Louis XIV between 1661 to his death in 1715. Its most memorable room is the 236 foot long Hall of Mirrors. The renovations of the 800 hectare Gardens began in 1661 and lasted over 40 years. After visiting Versailles I spent the day walking along the Seine River and had a glass of wine on a "barge restaurant". Later that evening I visited the Latin Quarter and listened to some great jazz. (Felt like I was in New Orleans)
Friday, September 8, 2006
Last day in Paris. I strolled down the Seine River and visited Montmarte District where the Sacred Coeur Basilica is located. There are amazing views of Paris from the Basilica as it is the highest place in Paris. The Moulin Rouge is also located in Montmarte. I also visited the Picasso Museum but Monet is my favorite. Late overnight train to Madrid to save hotel room expense. Saying that the recliner seat was uncomfortable would be an understatement. Enjoyed Paris. Exciting beginning to this 2 month "whirlwind" adventure.
September 9th and 10th, 2006
I arrived early Sunday morning. Madrid was beautiful and is supposedly the cleanest city in Europe. Not as exciting as I had hoped but the fact that it rained both days and I was there on a Sunday and Monday may have been contributing factors. The Mayor Plaza, where my hotel was located, was especially nice and there were sidewalk cafes everywhere. It rained too much to take many pictures. After checking out Monday, I still had 10 hours until my late overnight train to Barcelona. It was still raining so I spent most of the day on the hop on hop off bus to see the sights and stay dry.
September 11, 2006
When I arrived in Barcelona it was storming. Fortunately, I had packed a poncho. I found my hotel which was located near Las Ramblas, one of the most famous streets in Barcelona. It is a tree-lined pedestrian walkway that stretches 1.2 km connecting Placa de Catalunya with the Christopher Columbus Monument at the port. Immediately I realized I had not planned enough time here. It is so beautiful and there is so much to do. Later I visited the Sagrada Familia. Construction began on this enormous incomplete, roofless masterpiece by the eccentric genius Antonio Gaudi in 1882. He was run over by a tram in 1926 before he could complete his most controversial creation. The construction is still ongoing.
September 12, 2006
This morning I walked down Las Ramblas to the port. Street performers, sidewalk cafes, markets and flower and bird shops line this beautiful pedestrian street. At the very end of Las Ramblas is the iconic statue of Christopher Columbus next to the port. After watching the sailboats at the port, I continued walking to the beautiful beaches located in Barcelona. Later that evening I went to a sidewalk cafe for my 1st experience with Paella, similar to Louisiana Jambalaya, and ordered Sangria. As soon as I ordered it began to storm. I ran inside to eat and drink and 5 hours later the torrential downpour stopped. It was now 12:30 am but as luck would have it, the Tapas Bars were in full swing. Spain eats and parties late.
September 13th.
More rain. Used the hop on, hop off bus to see the sights but not picture worthy due to weather. Train to Cannes, France leaves at 4:32 pm.
September 14, 2006
Only spending a few hours in Cannes. Walked to the harbour and saw where they have the Cannes Film Festival. Then back on the train to Nice. In Nice I took the hop on hop off bus to see the sights. Then to my room for much needed rest and KFC for dinner. (Yum)
The 1st two pictures are of Cannes, home of the world famous Cannes Film Festival. The rest of the pictures were taken in Nice.
September 15, 2006
Took the train to Monte Carlo, Monaco to spend a few hours in the home of the "Rich and Famous". lol THE YACHTS go on forever. OMG. The town looks like a perfect Italian village on a mountain by the sea. Except new and very expensive.
I spent a few hours in the Monte Carlo looking at the beauty and wealth which the principality of Monaco, which is smaller than London's Hyde Park, and is famous for its yachts and Rolls-Royces. I love the picture of the Rolls-Royce sitting next to a Smart car in front of the Grand Casino. I guess you arrive in one and leave in the other. lol Before catching the late train to Venice, I did visit the Grand Casino and won about 75 euros.
September 16, 2006
I just arrived in Venice after spending the night traveling on the train in a sleeper car from Monaco. Venice was beautiful but after 4-5 hours you pretty much have seen almost everything. I was supposed to stay 2 nights but only stayed one. It is very expensive and truly can be seen in 1 day if short on travel time. Many backpackers arrive early in morning, check their backpack at train station, and spend the day in Venice. Then back on the train to another place. The streets are narrow, not straight and change names every 50 feet. Everyone is lost. The Piazza San Marco {St. Mark's Square} is impressive as is St. Mark's Basilica. Watch out for the pigeons. lol
September 17, 2006
I took the train from Venice 10 hours earlier than anticipated to Munich for Oktoberfest. I had tried to stop off and visit Neuschwenstein Castle but missed the stop. Room in Munich was not ready so got back on train and rode to Stuttgart to sleep on the train, then turned around and came back to Munich to check in. I stayed at the Jaegermeister Hostel which was only a few blocks from the Olde Town Center and the Fairgrounds where the beer gardens were located. The Glockenspiel Clock is one of the highlights of Olde Town . After World War II, most of Munich was destroyed. The people were given the choice of rebuilding as it was or rebuilding in a newer style. They chose as it was before.
September 18, 2006
Today I visited Neuschwanstein Castle outside of Furren, Germany, which was the prototype used by Walt Disney for Sleeping Beauty and the Magic Kingdom. This was one of three castles built by Mad King Ludwig and was built on an isolated rock ledge amid heart-stopping scenery. The Hohenschwangau is nearby and where Ludwig lived while overseeing the work of Neuschwanstein.
September 19, 2006
Oktoberfest in Munich was quite an experience. The festival always starts in September which is kind of strange being that it is Oktoberfest. The Bavarian breweries brew beer for 4 months just to have enough beer for the 12 day festival. Numerous beer tents are set up by breweries that hold about 6,000 people indoors.
September 20, 2006
My day trip to Salzburg, Austria was just as expected. It was a beautiful old town set in the mountains with that "Sound of Music" vibe. I walked up to the Castle overlooking Salzburg. A puppet museum was located inside the castle. Salzburg. Also visited the "Horse Fountain " and then caught by the train back to Munich. Late night overnight train to Florence, Italy at 23:40 pm.
September 21, 2006
My overnight train arrived in Florence at 9:30 am. My hotel was only 1 block from the train station which is very convenient and close to tourist attractions. After checking in, I went to the Academia and waited for 2 hours in line.
The Statute of David picture was taken in the Academia. You are not allowed to take pictures but I carefully snapped a few pictures without being noticed. The other statutes were in various piazzas. Afterwards I went to the Uffizi Gallery to see the "Old Masters" paintings which is not my thing. Another 1.5 hours in line for the ticket. At night I visited the various Piazzas and watched various street artists perform and do my favorite thing, PEOPLE WATCH.
The Il Duomo {The Cathedral of Santa Maria Del Fiori} boasts an enormous octagonal dome which was the largest in the world when built. The bronze doors at the baptistry in the piazza are called the Doors of Paradise. Eating gelato was my favorite thing to do in Italy. It is said that you are never more than 20 feet from a shop selling gelato at any time in Italy.
September 22, 2006
This morning I did a hop on hop off bus tour but wasn't a great idea. Florence is very walkable and best way to see most sights. That evening I went to Piazzale de Michelangelo which overlooks Florence and has amazing views at sunset. My favorite thing so far on this trip. Florence looked magical as we sat on the steps sipping wine, eating pizza and watching the sunset.
Florence was my favorite city in all of Europe. My favorite thing was sitting in the piazzas, grabbing a bite to eat, having a glass of wine and watching the people go through their every day lives. I especially love the Piazzale de Michelangelo which overlooks Florence from a high hill. Many tour buses go there especially at sunset. There is also a copy of the Statute of David there. It is just a very beautiful city and the piazzas are washed with soap from street machines every night. There is also great music and street performers in the piazzas and in front of the Uffizi at night.
Saturday , September 23, 2006
I left Florence early this morning to go to Cinque Terre. On the way I stopped in the town of Pisa to take pictures of the Leaning Tower of Pisa. The Tower was my only reason to visit here so my entire trip lasted one hour. 20 minutes to the tower, 20 minutes at the tower, and 20 minutes back to the train station. Then to Riomaggiore, one of the 5 villages that are called Cinque Terre.
In my RICK STEVES guidebook he mentioned Cinque Terre and that he was reluctant to mention this jewel on the Mediterranean which was mostly unknown in 2006. Upon arrival I fell in love with these colorful villages. Trains run to all the villages which are only minutes apart. There is also hiking between the villages.
Today I began hiking the trails between the villages. A lot of up and down on the cliffs along the Mediterranean. The views made it all worthwhile. Unfortunately I did not spend enough time in the other 4 villages.
September 25, 2006
Visited Vernazza and enjoyed the coast. Last day here, this trip. Living "la dolce vita", the sweet life.
September 26th and 27th, 2006
I caught the train from Riomaggiore to Siena and then caught a bus to San Gimignano for the 2 day walk through Tuscany. San Gimignanno has 14 medieval towers dating back to the 12th century. At one time there were 70 towers. No one seemed to know about a walking route so the next morning, I started walking along the highway on my way through the beautiful Tuscan landscape. Beautiful rolling hills, grape vines and olive trees decorate the countryside. I finished the 19 kilometer walk in one day rather than two.
September 28th and 29th, 2006
After walking through Tuscany I headed back to Siena. Siena is a university town and there were beautiful women everywhere. Lots of expensive shops in the best preserved medieval city in Italy. The Piazza di Campo is shaped like a bowl. In the best it was the meeting place for the city and today it is still a great place to meet friends, get a bite to eat or just bask in the sun. I climbed the gate tower to get a good view of the city including the duomo. Nice statue of Romulus and Remus. Will spend 30th in Florence and then continue to Rome.
Sunday October 1, 2006
I left Florence this morning and arrived in Rome at 11am. I went to the Colisseum, Roman Forum, Pantheon and Trevi Fountain. The Pantheon had closed by the time I got there. The Colisseum is magnificent from the outside and a little disappointing on the inside. Not sure if I expected to see gladiators battling or lions eating Christians, but I did not expect it to be in such disrepair. Oh well, when in Rome. There was renovation going on when I was there so hopefully one day it will more closely resemble its former glory inside.
October 3, 2006
The Trevi Fountain surprised me the most. The Fountain always seemed larger in life in movies, television and in pictures. I was surprised by its size and the size of the piazza. Much smaller than I imagined.. The Fountain depicts Neptune standing on a chariot drawn by winged horses. It was completed in 1762 and was actually never a big tourist attraction until the movie, "Three Coins in a Fountain". Throwing a coin over your shoulder into the fountain is supposed to ensure your return to Rome. My first attempt hit someone in the head, so I moved closer and had better success.
October 2, 2006
I went to the Vatican City, the world's smallest independent state. It is accessed through St. Peter's Square, surrounded by an elliptical colonade with some 140 saints on top. Straight ahead is St. Peter's Basilica, the center of world Catholicism. The Swiss Guard protect the Vatican.
After St. Peter's Basilica I visited the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel. The ceiling in the Sistine Chapel was painted by Michelangelo between 1508 and 1512. You are not allowed to take pictures inside the Sistine Chapel. I did manage to get a couple of shots, including Adam and Eve being cast out of the Garden of Eden, before they threatened to confiscate my camera.
The Spanish Steps is the place to be at sunset with a great view of Rome's 7 hills. It is located in the Piazza di Spagna.
Tuesday October 3, 2006
I went to the Piazza Novona which was being repaired and went back to the Pantheon to see the inside. Raphael's tomb is inside. The Pantheon is the most complete ancient Roman building remaining today and is an architectural wonder. Its dome is exactly as wide as it is high, supported by pillars hidden in the walls. It is located in the Piazza dell Rotunda. Also pictured is a fountain in the middle of the piazza. Almost had my wallet stolen by a pickpocket on the city bus. Thankfully a woman brought it to my attention as she chastised the couple next to me trying to get my wallet. Now I use a moneybelt when traveling. Another great day and spaghetti again for dinner.
NOTE: In Italy the house wine is really inexpensive and tastes great. It's called house wine because that is the wine they would serve to family and friends ....at their house.
Friday October 4-7th, 2006
I caught the train from Rome to Naples and then tge local train (Circumventa) to Sorrento. My guidebook said that Naples was the pickpocket capital of the world. But after my Rome encounter I believed I was prepared. I wasn't. After getting on the crowded Circumvent I felt a bump. I immediately looked and my front pocket was unbuttoned , my wallet gone and the pickpocket stepping out of the train. 3 seconds was all it took.. Fortunately I only had 20 euros in it. I keep my cash, credit cards and passport in a moneybelt
Sorrento was very touristy but beautiful. It is famous for its lemons and lemoncello, a lemon flavored liqueur.
I was based to Sorrento but did several day trips. I caught the boat from Sorrento to Positano to see the sights. Positano is the most beautiful of the towns on the Amalfi Coast. Supposedly the bus ride along the coast is one of the great experiences here but I did not have the opportunity to see for myself. I also went to Ravello.
October 7th, 8th and 9th, 2006.
Train to Bari, Italy where I spent the night. Then overnight ferry to Patras, Greece. Left the ferry and caught the train to Athens. I am only spending enough time to see the Acropolis and the Parthenon and then catching the overnight ferry to Ios. I met an interesting man who is about 80 on the train and we still correspond by mail every few months.
Tuesday, October 10, 2006
Another long ferry ride {8.5 hrs} but I finally arrived at Ios at 6 am. Very uncomfortable ferry trip as I did not get a room, just floor space. I finally found my hostel about 8 am but had to wait for someone to open. Most people have left the island because the season is mostly over, but I was fortunate because it was just me and 8 girls from Australia at Francesco's hostel. That alone made the ferry ride worth it. After lunch I walked the 15 minutes to the beach. It was a beautiful sunny day but the water was chilly. Late night with my new Australian friends.
October 11, 2006
I walked to the beach again today but it was very cloudy and windy. I decided to go back to the hotel . As I began walking back I saw a local bus coming and waived it down. I climbed on the bus and immediately all the school children started laughing. Oops. The bus driver dropped me off in the village.
October 12-15th, 2006
I spent 3 days just enjoying the beauty that is Santorini. On Friday I took the bus to Oia which supposedly has the most beautiful sunset in the world. Over 200 people waited with cameras but unfortunately it was too cloudy. Santorini is all about money with jewelry stores and expensive restaurants lining the caldera overlooking the Mediterranean. One interesting fact is that the grape vineyards here do not put their grapes on poles but instead place the vines in a circle on the volcanic soil to help with the moisture. Lots of cruise ships arriving daily.
Sunday October 15, 2006
Checked out of the hotel. I am going to Crete at 10 pm on the ferry. I am going to spend the day at Perissa beach. The beach has beautiful black volcanic sand. The water was cold but the sun was warm.
October 15th and 16th , 2006
Left Santorini on ferry at 10 pm and arrived in Heraklion on the boat at 12:30 am and finally found a hostel. I only got 4 hrs sleep and had to catch the 5:30 am bus to Chania which was 2.5 hrs away. I got there just in time to catch the 8 am bus to Samaria Gorge, which was the only reason I came to Crete. It is the longest ravine in Europe and starts off with a 3000 ft. drop during the first mile and another 11 miles after that. The hike takes about 5-6 hrs and eventually leads to a seaside town. Walking downhill on rocks is very painful and it reminded me of Kilimanjaro. Unfortunately, the pain was not completely over by the time we reached the beach town. The bus was full and I had to stand another 1.5 hrs. I am ready to leave Crete. The walk was a great trek but I am looking forward to Switzerland.
Wednesday October 18, 2006
After flying into Milan from Crete the night before, I caught the 6:25 am train to Interlaken. I had left my camera back in my hotel room and had to go back and get it. I got to the train 2 minutes before it pulled out. The train ride to Switzerland was incredible. I got to Interlaken at 9 am and found out that the next train to the Jungfrau Mountain, which I wanted to visit, left in 3 minutes so I bought a ticket. The weather has been warm since I have been in Europe and I did not bring a coat. It would have been nice to have had one when I went to the Jungfrau and the Ice Palace, which is located inside the mountain. At 11,400 feet Jungfrau has been the highest railroad terminus for over a century and the Aletsch Glacier is Europe's longest.
Thursday October 19, 2006
Today I went with 4 other people up on the side of a mountain about 2800 feet up and ran off the side of a mountain along with my pilot, Julian, in a tandem jump. Julian said his 1st jump was only 18 months earlier and then it when he decided to get him license. The view over Interlaken was beautiful and we landed right in front of Hooters, the only one in Europe. Life doesn't get much better than this.
October 20, 2006 (Schilthorn)
Today I had planned to go to Trummelbach Falls, which has 10 waterfalls inside a mountain, but took the wrong bus and ended up at the cable car to Schilthorn. I decided it must be fate and paid the $72 cable car fee. Schilthorn is famous for having the longest ski run in the world and being the location for one of the older James Bond films. It was the best view so far including Jungfrau. At the top is a rotating restaurant which gives you a 360 degree view while eating lunch. There were beautiful panoramic views of the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau Mountains.
" All journeys have secret destinations of which the traveler is unaware."
Martin Buber
October 20, 2006 (Murren and Gimmelwald, Switzerland)
I got off the cable car from Schilthorn to visit the village of Murren. It is a typical small Swiss village on the mountainside. It has restaurants and hotels which makes it tourist friendly. A good place to stay in the Alps can be hard to find.
Later I went to Gimmelwald which is much smaller with only one bed and breakfast, no restaurants and the Mountain Hostel with has probably one of the best views in the Alps. Since Gimmelwald is not too far up the mountain from Murren, it is easy to get supplies and food in Murren when staying here.
October 21, 2006 (Bern, Switzerland)
I took the morning train from Interlaken to Bern. Only 1.5 hrs. I immediately walked to Olde Town to see the Glockenspiel clock with the bear chasing the rooster and the bear den. Bern was named after the bear because it was the 1st animal killed on that site. I also took pictures of the various fountains including the Ogre Fountain which depicts him eating children and the Rose Garden overlooking the city. There also was a cheese and milk market which happens every Saturday morning.
Saturday October 21, 2006. (Lucerne, Switzerland)
After lunch I took the train from Bern to Lucerne. It has a beautiful bridge, Kapellbrucke, that has 120 captioned triangular paintings from the early 1500's that chronicle the city's history. I also got to watch skull {rowing} races in the middle of the city with everyone lining the river and cheering. A Cheese Festival was also going on with a milking contest complete with a fake cow that gave milk. The building decorations were some of the most unusual that I have ever seen. The train ride back to Interlaken through the mountains was breathtaking.
Sunday October 22, 2006
I left Interlaken by train this morning to go see the Matterhorn in Zermatt. The train ride was a long 5 hrs. The ride on the cog railway up the mountain across from the Mattterhorn was beautiful with the Matterhorn staring you in the face the entire time. I decided to walk the six hours down the mountain to enjoy the scenery. I took a trail that I later found out was not the tourist trail as you may notice. A picture of some mountain scooters for the true adventurer. Got back to Zermatt just in time to catch the last train to Interlaken.
October 23, 2006
Cloudy day so took this as opportunity to do laundry and buy presents for the kids. I just missed Martina Hingis, famous Swiss tennis player, at Omega Store promotion downtown. Enjoyed the "down time" and did a lot of nothing. I am learning that it is not necessary to do something every minute while traveling. Relaxing and enjoying the experience is also important.
October 24, 2006
I decided to skydive over Lake Thun today. I jumped tandem, attached to the jumpmaster, from 13,000 feet and there was a 35-40 second free fall before our chute opened. I had jumped several times about 20 years earlier but views then were not as spectacular as those of Switzerland. After landing, the jumpmaster said that was the 2nd best thing to do in Interlaken. WHAT ???? 2ND BEST.
Seems that skydiving from a HELICOPTER inside the Jungfrau Valley is #1. Aaarrgg I just spent $350 on skydiving from plane and now I can't get skydiving from a helicopter out of my mind. Lol
October 25, 2006
Today I checked on Helicopter Skydiving and they did not have the minimum number of persons required. It is nearing the end of the season. Will check back later. I spent the rest of the day window shopping in Interlaken. Cuckoo clocks and Swiss chocolate everywhere. I found out that evening that I will be skydiving tomorrow at 9 am. Excited !!!
Thursday October 26, 2007
The jumpmaster told us that there were only 3 places in the world you could jump from a helicopter in the mountains ........ Australia, Hawaii and Interlaken, Switzerland. 2 days ago I went skydiving out of a plane but the opportunity to jump from a helicopter was too great to pass on. Another major expense of $550 including the video but definitely worth it. Unfortunately I don't have any pictures. Need to learn how to upload my video. There was a momentary delay as a mechanic needed to perform maintenance on the helicopter. NOT A CONFIDENCE BUILDER. But off we went, the helicopter climbed to 15,000 feet and the views were spectacular. We jumped right inside of the Jungfrau, Monch and Eiger mountains which was quite an adrenaline rush. At one point we were only about 20 feet from a waterfall. Best money ever spent. Good day.
"decide....whether or not the goal is worth the risks involved. If it is stop worrying ...." Amelia Earhart
October 27, 2006
Interlaken is one of the most beautiful towns that I have ever seen. I came here for 3 days and stayed 9 days. Set in the middle of the Alps, it is a town of about 20,000 people and has a beautiful river running right through the center of town. It also has two lakes on both sides of it, therefore the name Interlaken. Ursula and Chris at Rugenpark Hostel made me feel like I was at home. I probably would have stayed longer except they were closing for the month of November. Ursula gave me a box of chocolates as a going away present. Train to Milan at 9 am and then connecting train to Lake Como, Italy.
October 27th and 28th, 2006
Overnight train to Milan and switched trains to visit Como, Italy. Then I took a cruise on beautiful Lake Como, called the most beautiful lake in the world by many. Lake Como is the playground of the rich and famous. George Clooney and Brad Pitt have homes here. The cruise was about 6 hours. After the cruise I went back to Milan to catch the overnight (11:35 pm) train to Paris but it was full. I found out from fellow backpacker that sometimes the conductor saves a few couchettes (sleeper) to sell. I check and fortunately he had one available for 45 euros.
October 29-31st, 2006
After arriving in Paris the next morning I decided to continue to Bruges, Belgium. Bruges has one of the most beautiful "old towns" that I have seen in Europe. Belgium is famous for beer, lace, chocolate and frites {french fries} , except they use mayo rather than ketchup. The fountain had soap bubbles in it.
October 31-November 1st, 2006
I moved from the Hotel Verdi to the Ship Avanti. Bunk beds on this floating ship hostel located in the canals but much closer to downtown. I walked around the Red Light District later that night. It is illegal to take pictures in the Red Light District. You must really be careful taking pictures because plain clothes policemen will appear from nowhere if you try to take pictures of the ladies in the windows. I also stopped in a "cafe" as a curiosity but did not partake of any herbal refreshment since that is just not my thing.
Thursday November 2, 2006
I caught the local bus and went to a small village outside Amsterdam which is known for their windmills. A bus tour would have been 28 euros but the local bus only cost me 7 euros round trip. I also walked to the Red Light District during the day. Later that day there was a hail storm and 50 mph winds. Not great weather especially since almost everyone rides a bike to work in Amsterdam. The wind was blowing people off their bikes much to the amusement of us seeking refuge in the local bar.
Norwegian saying
"No such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing."
Friday November 3, 2006
I was supposed to stay 3 more nights in Amsterdam but changed my flight to Nov. 3rd for $230. (Crazy I know but not going to lie, I was homesick. I justified it by saving 3 nights of hotel expense that I no longer have.
I have seen some amazing sights and done some amazing things. But enough us enough. 2 months is a long time moving what seems like non stop for a beginning traveler. My flight is scheduled for 10:10 am.
I got to the airport at AMS at 8am. I realized after boarding that I had left my camera at the securtity check. All of my pictures. The stewardess let me go and retrieve it. I had been so careful for 60 days and almost lost it getting on the plane. It has been a great trip. Greece and Italy were incredible but Switzerland stole my heart. There is something about waking up in a small village in the middle of the Alps. I got back to Houston at 2pm and Angie was there to pick me up. I took my sister, Sandra, and Angie to dinner to thank them for putting me up and taking me to the airport and picking me up. I am glad to be home but at the same time a little sad the adventure is over. Traveling is an addiction and I was already feeling a little withdrawal 8 hrs after landing in Houston. Also, a special thanks to my brother, Morgan, whose European adventures were the basis for my traveling obsession.
"Travel is as much a passion as ambition or love."
L.E. Landon
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